seating die as crimp die?

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I don't like Lee's Factory Crimp die because it sizes the case after seating the bullet. However I like the idea of separating the seating & crimping steps. So...has anyone else just bought an extra Lee seating die & used that for the crimp stage?

Is this idea loco?

[forrest]

I don't use lee dies for revolver/roll crimp ammo. I'll seat/crimp in the same step when roll crimping.

But I do like the lee dies for reloading for the semi-auto's (9mm/45acp). I use the lee taper crimp die in a separate stage to taper crimp the semi-auto ammo.

Not a huge fan of the lee fcd dies, gave them away to reloaders at a local gun club.

[jsizemore]

I was using RCBS dies to make revolver ammo. Got a dillon and decided to use my RCBS dies. Bought a Lee seat/crimp die to do the crimp only. It sounded like crushing rice crispys when installed to crimp. Thing looked like an armadillo inside. I sent it to a fella that wanted to practice his machining skills. Last Lee thingy I ever bought.

[sierra1911]

I use a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die when loading for my 454 Casull. It doesn’t resize the round as I removed the carbide ring with a screwdriver and hammer before using it.

[hoodat]

Most all seating dies have the crimp ring in them. A lot of us will seat and crimp in a separate step, and any brand seater die could be used for the crimper, with or without the seating plug. jd

[Plinkmeister]

I use RCBS dies and just buy an extra seating die. I remove or back off the seater stem, and crimp without touching the bullet. This way I don't have to change any die settings to seat and crimp separately.

[blackthorn]

Most all seating dies have an integral crimp feature that allows us ti seat and crimp in one motion. This feature however can cause problems with scraping material from the bullet during seating. We can seat and then crimp by adjusting the die to first seat and then readjusting to crimp. This is a royal pain. But, all is not lost. We can find/fashion a washer of the appropriate thickness to place between the die and top of the press that allows us to seat without crimping and then remove the washer and reinstall the die to complete the crimping process.

[405grain]

For all of my cast bullet loads, both rifle and pistol, I do seating and crimping as two separate operations. I use either RCBS or Redding dies. (I've tried both Hornady and Lee dies, but don't like them) For cast bullet loads the case mouth needs to have a slight bell. Just enough for about half the height of the gas check to enter the case mouth is enough. I seat the bullets with the die body backed out a turn or so. Once all the bullets have been seated I back out the seating stem, then turn in the die body to do the crimp, and then run all the cartridges back through the die. Trying to seat and crimp at the same time can cause the case mouth to shave off a ring of lead from the side of the bullet. On rifle cartridges where I rely on case mouth tension, and on pistol cartridges that seat against the mouth, I only "crimp" the case mouth enough to remove the case mouth bell. On things like magnum handgun cartridges or cartridges that are used in tubular magazines I give the case mouths a nice roll crimp.

I only use (modified) Lee Factory Crimp dies to swage gas check shanks and bullet noses to the proper size when powder coating makes them too large. I never actually use them to crimp cartridges.

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

For all of my cast bullet loads, both rifle and pistol, I do seating and crimping as two separate operations. I use either RCBS or Redding dies. (I've tried both Hornady and Lee dies, but don't like them) For cast bullet loads the case mouth needs to have a slight bell. Just enough for about half the height of the gas check to enter the case mouth is enough. I seat the bullets with the die body backed out a turn or so. Once all the bullets have been seated I back out the seating stem, then turn in the die body to do the crimp, and then run all the cartridges back through the die. Trying to seat and crimp at the same time can cause the case mouth to shave off a ring of lead from the side of the bullet. On rifle cartridges where I rely on case mouth tension, and on pistol cartridges that seat against the mouth, I only "crimp" the case mouth enough to remove the case mouth bell. On things like magnum handgun cartridges or cartridges that are used in tubular magazines I give the case mouths a nice roll crimp.

I only use (modified) Lee Factory Crimp dies to swage gas check shanks and bullet noses to the proper size when powder coating makes them too large. I never actually use them to crimp cartridges.

Ok. If the seater die can crimp in a separate step, I might just buy an extra seater die instead of a FCD.

I have a Lee Auto breech lock press & I need to set it up for .38 Super (taper crimp).

[Der Gebirgsjager]

I've crimped by every method discussed here, and I think you have to find what's right for your individual situation, which can be different for each cartridge/caliber and firearm. I am a fan of the Lee Factory Crimp Carbide Die for rounds to be used in semi-auto pistols. It acts as a guarantee that if the loaded case will slip in and out of the die it will work in your pistol. A loaded cartridge being crimped that is for some reason out of sizing specs will be resized by the FCCD and save you a stoppage on the firing line. Lee claims that their Factory crimp is superior to the roll crimp provided by most seating dies, and although I have no definitive proof to offer, it makes sense to me that a crimp that is a squeeze all around the mouth is better than a roll and works the brass less perhaps avoiding early splits.

DG

[JD45]

For general shooting and hunting loads you can keep it simple. Revolver rounds need a roll crimp, and autos a taper. Your seating die has one built in. Just don't over crimp. Plunk test or case gauge a hundred rds. to be sure.

[fredj338]

Not a lee due but sure, but another seating die, ant brand, & remove the stem. I am not a fan of the roll ctimp the lee die uses.

[Shiloh]

I close the bell in a separate step.

Shiloh

[Chikinfishin]

I don't like Lee's Factory Crimp die because it sizes the case after seating the bullet. However I like the idea of separating the seating & crimping steps. So...has anyone else just bought an extra Lee seating die & used that for the crimp stage?

Is this idea loco?

Nope.

My choice method actually.

[SiliconeSword]

For 9mm I run a Lyman taper crimp die purely to remove flare, and when loading jacketed I use the factory crimp die as I relegate mixed weird brass to jacketed if it's especially hard or has thick walls that'd squish down lead.

For bottleneck rifle I use Lee dies so my crimping is separate if I even decide to crimp.
Last year I was talking to somebody I got into reloading and he was having issues where his 300blk ammo wouldn't chamber because just below the shoulder it was "rolled". Turns out his RCBS die seater die was also a crimp die and he didn't know it, so he was forcing into the crimp so far it'd probably shorten the case by at least 1/16.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I don't like Lee's Factory Crimp die because it sizes the case after seating the bullet. However I like the idea of separating the seating & crimping steps. So...has anyone else just bought an extra Lee seating die & used that for the crimp stage?

Is this idea loco?

It's a good idea.
The exact answer does depend on caliber.

Ok. If the seater die can crimp in a separate step, I might just buy an extra seater die instead of a FCD.

I have a Lee Auto breech lock press & I need to set it up for .38 Super (taper crimp).

Lee's makes a 9mm taper crime die(with no seating capability). That is what I use with 9mm Luger and 38 Super

[gwpercle]

I don't like Lee's Factory Crimp die because it sizes the case after seating the bullet. However I like the idea of separating the seating & crimping steps. So...has anyone else just bought an extra Lee seating die & used that for the crimp stage?

Is this idea loco?

Not at all !
For the longest time I used the seater in one step and crimped in a second by adjusting the one die ... when I had more disposable income I started picking up extra dies ... found many on E-Bay .
Seperate seating and crimping will give you better job with cast boolits ...
Do It !
Gary