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Thread: LLA for metal protection?

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master
    FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    LLA for metal protection?

    I have a Savage Mark II .22 rifle that lives in the big drawer of my tool box in the garage. I wipe down the exterior metal parts occasionally with an oily rag to head off potential rust spots, but of course I would have to remove the stock to wipe down all the parts covered by the stock. I'm wondering if I could coat those parts with Lee Liquid Alox to permanently protect them, similar to cosmoline? If so, then this might be a good practice for any ferrous metal tools or guns not kept in a climate controlled environment. Or for handguns exposed to sweat and perspiration during the summer.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    Works fine for that. I blend 4 oz. of LLA with equal volume of 5w-30 motor oil and apply with paint brush. Mixing in oil makes it much easier to remove after long storage.
    The ENEMY is listening.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Excellent, thanks!
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy gumbo333's Avatar
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    Might try mixing with a little ATF. ATF has good rust fighting properties. Mixing kerosene or diesel with ATF (50/50) makes a great lube oil for firearms and everything else in the garage, shop, farm.
    Never trade luck for skill.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The lla will work for this thinned it will go farther. Thinning with oils it may never dry, with a thinner it should dry and seal. For rough service weather a good paste wax inside the barrel channel and on metals gives long term protection also.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Thanks for all the tips, I'll put them into practice. I usually cut my LLA 40-50% with mineral spirits when applying it to boolits and it leaves a decent coat without clumping or being sticky. One thing I'm finding is that straight kerosene makes a great multipurpose bore cleaner and degreaser, and so far it seems pretty gentle on paint and other finishes. I have a bunch of lanterns and heaters so it is always available. I don't know how well it would work on really baked in copper fouling from high pressure rounds, as all my rifle loads are mild and what little fouling there is comes out pretty easily.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master facetious's Avatar
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    Try some BLL tumble lube. I saw this post last night and for fun dipped a screwdriver in it and today it has dried and left a thin coat and is not sticky just kind of waxy.
    We go through life trying to make the best decisions we can based on the best infomation we can find, that turns out to be wrong.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

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    Years ago LLA was nothing more than Alox 606-55 cut with a solvent. Even in that state it could be cut further to allow it to dry. Alox 606-55 or something similar was used by the Navy to rustproof equipment on deck(or so I was told). Alox was acquired by some other chemical company many years ago.
    Several years ago, in a fit of overthinking, I bought a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff. I finally sold off all but about a gallon and really will never use it since I started powder coat. Long term storage of anything ferrous would benefit.
    John
    W.TN

  9. #9
    Boolit Master SiliconeSword's Avatar
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    Lanolin is some good stuff for that, what I undercoat my car with and there's some still left every autumn

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    That's actually what Alox was originally formulated for. Specifically, machine tools.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Maven's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=Tracy;5995472]That's actually what Alox was originally formulated for. Specifically, machine tools.

    To add to Tracy's post, you may remember Ziebart and Rust Jones used a form of Alox for automobile rustproofing.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check