Micro Lathe and Cartridge Conversions - Bad idea?

[Rfeustel]

I have been considering getting a lathe for cartridge conversions, specifically for rim timming, thinning, and cutting extractor grooves. To date, I have been doing some of these with a file and drill press. I'm considering a micro lathe, like the Taig: https://taigtools.com/product/micro-lathe-ii-m1017/

I wish I had more time/need and space for a larger, bench top lathe. But that's not in my life right now. I just need to work on brass and make mandrels that fit in the mouth of cases to hold them on while working.

Am I going to be disappointed, or can something like the Taig do that basic job? Lots of posts talking about larger bench top lathes, and I'm jealous at what people can do (I'd love to make a fire forming tool for example). But right now I'm focused on brass cases and cartridge conversions.

Thank you

[mjb206]

I've had a Taig lathe for years, and while I haven't done any cartridge work on them, I can't see any reason why you couldn't. They have quite a few accessories for them (obviously some things like HSS or carbide cutters you can get anywhere.) and their customer service is top notch. I've used mine on all sorts of various projects over the years. Working on brass would be a no brainer with these. There's also ways to fab up DROs if you need to.

Michael

[405grain]

The lathe that you posted about says that the chuck & tailstock are extra. You are going to need both of those items. Also, see if a collet adapter is available for that lathe as it would be very useful. A lathe like the one you're looking at can be very handy for lots of applications. It doesn't have a lead screw, so it can't turn threads; but it could make all kinds of parts like bushings, rods & pins, shaft collars, etc. It would be light years ahead of a drill press and a file for working on cartridge cases.

[mjb206]

The lathe that you posted about says that the chuck & tailstock are extra. You are going to need both of those items. Also, see if a collet adapter is available for that lathe as it would be very useful. A lathe like the one you're looking at can be very handy for lots of applications. It doesn't have a lead screw, so it can't turn threads; but it could make all kinds of parts like bushings, rods & pins, shaft collars, etc. It would be light years ahead of a drill press and a file for working on cartridge cases.

I think they have a package that includes the chuck and the tail stop - at least they used to. There are options for 3 and 4 jaw chucks, depending on your preference (I have both.)

I would concur on the collet set - I have a set of Er32 collets for mine (I believe Taig sells ER16 on their site.) However, you need an adaptor to run the ER32s on the Taig - it's a 3/4 × 16 ER32 adaptor (my collet set actually came with the adaptor):

https://www.pennstateind.com/store/L...LFNjpRk6SFFPvp

Littlemachineshop.com has a ton of bits for small lathes

Michael

[country gent]

The taig is a good machine as is the sherline, With collets and a collet stop you may not need to turn mandrels, you may be able to hold the case in the collet. The one issue with these small machines is no throat to work with. I will also recommend HSS cobalt bits for it, only a few dollars a piece, fairly easy to sharpen on a bench grinder and can be ground to what you want if doing "form work". For brass unless you have really high rpms carbide isnt needed and inserts get expensive and may not be the best shape for what you want to do. Settable stops for carriage and cross feed are a big plus. Tail stock with a morse taper for centers drills and such is a big plus. The other is in todays market a dro for it wouldnt be to expensive for X Y axis.

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I would suggest that you look at some of the smaller Grizzly 'mini' lathes, most have a threading capability that you my find useful and seem to have a bit more capability. I have had a Unimat a very long time(1967) and found its power and usefulness very limiting. There are other small lathes, mostly Chinese, cheaper and comparable to Grizzly but Grizzly does have better support and usually better quality.

[country gent]

Grizzly bought the south bend name a few years ago. While grizzly's machines and tooling are built in foreign countries, they are built to grizzlies specs and tolerances. Most of these machines are sub contracted and its the specs and tolerances specified that make or break them. The small machines are limited in power and work size. for converting cases a lot of power isnt really needed, but repeatability and precision is a must.

A Taig or sherline with quick change post with several tool holders and dial indicators or digital read outs would be very handy. I know of a couple shops that used these for small core pins and ejector pins, along with small parts and polishing.

One thing to remember is these little machines need balanced tooling and or bolted down solidly or they walk and move around. The bigger machines dont suffer from this as much. The 7X12 HFs are around 75lbs , still moveable by hand but heavy enough to tend to stay put.

[mjb206]

Grizzly bought the south bend name a few years ago. While grizzly's machines and tooling are built in foreign countries, they are built to grizzlies specs and tolerances. Most of these machines are sub contracted and its the specs and tolerances specified that make or break them. The small machines are limited in power and work size. for converting cases a lot of power isnt really needed, but repeatability and precision is a must.

A Taig or sherline with quick change post with several tool holders and dial indicators or digital read outs would be very handy. I know of a couple shops that used these for small core pins and ejector pins, along with small parts and polishing.

One thing to remember is these little machines need balanced tooling and or bolted down solidly or they walk and move around. The bigger machines dont suffer from this as much. The 7X12 HFs are around 75lbs , still moveable by hand but heavy enough to tend to stay put.

With the one I have (and OP posted) it includes a piece of particle board with all the lathe and motor mounts pre drilled. With this all mounted up, I've never had an issue with mine walking around. It's handy to be able to slide it on and off the bench (I guess if I did have an issue with walking, it would be really easy to clamp it to the bench)

[Rfeustel]

Thank you everyone for all of the insights. I'm feeling good about the idea, and I am focused on repeatability and precision for this type of project. I'm kind of done with the drill press file thing.

[almar]

I have an upgraded sherline with a 5C collet headstock and bigger motor, You will do alot more than trim brass on the lathe. slowly projects will trickle in and then, if like me you will want a bigger lathe here im making 12g brass shells from 50 bmg cases.

[Jeff Michel]

I have always felt you can do little work in a big lathe but not big work in a little lathe. That having been said, the is a guy on the Model Engine Maker, www.modelenginemaker.com by the name of Chris Rueby and the things he does with a Sherline lathe is absolutely phenomenal. If your clever and a bit creative a little lathe will do you just fine.

[country gent]

While you can do little work in a bigger machine try it for any length of time. You dont have the right speed range for the smaller soft metals work and feeds may not be in the right ranges. Then is the issue of cranking the heavier carriage and sliding the much heavier tail stock back and forth. Makes for a long day. chucks may require a hoist to change. Plus the feel isnt as good for fine work and touching off.

The biggest lathe Ive ran was an old white 36" swing by 12' bed carriage had a seat mounted on it for long cuts. we had a light chain to wrap around the tailstock to pull it in close. The smallest is my 7 X 12HF mini. We had several little atlas lathes in areas at work and also hardringe 9x24s (?) in the tool room. These were very good machines accurate and easy to use.
My 14 x 40 nardinni is about as big as I want to run on a daily basis. The 12x40 chi chum is much easier on me. For small light work the 7x112 is handy for the higher speeds

[BP Dave]

I don't know anything about Taig lathes, but the website photos make the one you present look pretty small. It might be great for small projects, and if that is all you are ever going to do, it might work out fine. But if you will ever want to expand or work on larger/longer projects, you might want to look around and see what else is out there. I suspect that by the time you purchase the necessary chuck and almost-as-necessary tailstock, you'll be talking enough $$ to at least consider other options before committing to whatever you decide.

[country gent]

I dropped out at an auction on a Sheldon 6X24 lathe belt drive had change gears and some tooling. The original owner used it to clean up commutators so no chuck but dead centers. It went for a little over $2000.00

OP says he dosnt have a lot of room for a bigger machine. Another issue going to a bigger machine is weight ( floors, benches, moving). The little Taigs and sherlines can be stored in a deep roll around tool box drawer.

The Nardinni is 3000 lbs dry the chi chum is 1800 lbs dry the HF 7x12 is 75 lbs. Getting into the bigger solider machines a. The bigger heavier solider machines adds some logistics to deal with.

The 7x24 hardringe solid bed machines are probably the optimum machine for what the OP states he want to do but these are heavy solid expensive machines weighing in around 3000 lbs

[trails4u]

https://littlemachineshop.com/produc...ini-lathe-7x16

I bought this one.....specifically for the same intended purpose as the OP. As others have said.....I've since taken on many other small projects...some of them paying gigs, and that has worked out pretty good. I've spent some money on tooling....but that was the money I made doing small jobs for others, so it's paying for its increased usefulness. I've not wanted for a smaller one....but honestly, not really wanted for a bigger one either. I'm not trying to continue to be a machinist...I just need it to accomplish my current needs, which are generally small and pretty easy work.

[Rapidrob]

I've been using my mini lathe for decades to make 8MM Siamese, .43 Spanish, 6.5 Dutch, 6.5 Jap cartridges. I did buy the 4-jaw chuck and use the carbide tools as posted to thin the base of the cases and the rims.
Removing the fired primers from 8MM Lebel brass. and convert to a modern Berdan primer is also easy to do with a little practice

[almar]

My grievance with a sherline is that you cant do threading very easily. It come with a little gear kit you hand crank but its a real pita. Not sure about the taig.

[rbuck351]

Years ago I bought a HF 7x10 which was fine for what you are wanting to do. For anything much larger than modifying cases, it has very limited working room. After a couple of years I bought a bed kit for the 7x14 and found it to be a lot easier to work with. It weighs about 75 lbs and I mounted it on a piece of 6" channel iron which added another 20/25 lbs and makes it fairly stiff.
I would recommend either the 7x14 or the 7x16 Grizzly

[mjb206]

One of the things I like best about my Taig is the portability. Almost every project in my "shop" requires playing Tetris and moving things around. The Taig is lightweight, and I've not yet found anything I can't do on it (with the exception of thread cutting and knurling.)

This page is a bit dated, and some of the links no longer work, but there's a ton of info and projects here: http://www.cartertools.com

[Rfeustel]

One of the things I like best about my Taig is the portability. Almost every project in my "shop" requires playing Tetris and moving things around. The Taig is lightweight, and I've not yet found anything I can't do on it (with the exception of thread cutting and knurling.)

This page is a bit dated, and some of the links no longer work, but there's a ton of info and projects here: http://www.cartertools.com

Great link, thank you.