simple Hi-Tek coating

[Petander]

Sorry for this thread twist into bore cleaning... There are many schools out there.



https://i.postimg.cc/5tXGw8Pm/Screen...515-145525.png

Steel wool? Recommended by gunsmiths? I have polished a 0000 steel wool -cleaned shotgun barrel back into shine. It was completely scratched, yes it looked "shiney" with the bare eye but borescope showed all those horrible scratches. It fouled accordingly.

A nice S&S Merkel 20 gauge was worth saving.

Hi Tek done right,I only use Bore Tech Shotgun Blend to get powder fouling / carbon out. Rifles and pistols,too. Wads & nylon brush.Sometimes more aggressive BT Carbon Remover,too. I then oil guns for storage.

It's such a long and expensive string of hoop-jumps to get a gun buying permit,then inspection,then a license here... I just naturally want to take good care of guns.

[Avenger442]

I'll add to the thread hijack.

I have used brass wool to clean out leading in old rifles. Chore Boy I believe is the brand. Used something like the steel wool. Wrap it around a brush. Brass wool can be bought in different grades like steel wool. The Chore Boy only comes in course. This method is a real "chore" pun intended. But it will clean the barrel well.

May have some test results on the 300 PRC and Hi Tek later this month. My usual range has been closed to add a buliding and 400 yard range . Stopped by to talk to the Contractor. Real friendly guy and a shooter. he said I could shoot there if I was finished before 8AM. I've got a trip that way last week of the month and have loaded up a different bullet and powder. We'll see if this one works better than the last. May also load another powder since trips are limited.

[HI-TEK]

I'll add to the thread hijack.

I have used brass wool to clean out leading in old rifles. Chore Boy I believe is the brand. Used something like the steel wool. Wrap it around a brush. Brass wool can be bought in different grades like steel wool. The Chore Boy only comes in course. This method is a real "chore" pun intended. But it will clean the barrel well.

May have some test results on the 300 PRC and Hi Tek later this month. My usual range has been closed to add a buliding and 400 yard range . Stopped by to talk to the Contractor. Real friendly guy and a shooter. he said I could shoot there if I was finished before 8AM. I've got a trip that way last week of the month and have loaded up a different bullet and powder. We'll see if this one works better than the last. May also load another powder since trips are limited.

Avenger,

I could be wrong, but I thought that using stuff that wont damage bore and that also prevents Leading is the main aim of this game. I have seen quite a few products out there that claim to be Bore friendly, but when used to clean, things turn out totally the opposite. With all the knowledge out there being freely provided, it would be rational for people to use things that wont damage their guns or rifles.

[Avenger442]

Joe

You are right. We have got off topic.

[Shotgundrums]

I try not to worry if I get a “little bit” of leading in the barrel. With HTC’d bullets, I’ve noticed in some long shooting sessions, with some guns, I’ll get some lead smudges and then it simply does not progress. In fact, the bores will just form powder residue around it and looks almost as though it’s not there. It’s not until I clean the bore and find it. Copper mesh works great to remove it, but with this sort of pattern, I usually don’t bother. The only time I ever use an actual abrasive in the bore is if I’m lapping the bore with a lead lap, to remove or knock down machining marks. However you decide to crack your nut, HTC will/does work great as long as we do our part.

[Ausglock]

if you are getting any leading with HITEK coated bullets, Size 1/2 to 1 thou bigger than you are doing now.

[Petander]

if you are getting any leading with HITEK coated bullets, Size 1/2 to 1 thou bigger than you are doing now.

Yeah. And we need a Like -button.

I ventured into Microgroove Marlin World a few months back and needed a larger 45-70 -mold for that rifle alone. My old standard .460" leaded badly, new .463" is shooting nice and clean.

[Petander]

Got a new mold for a 44 muzzleloader. Hensel from Germany. .447" / 325 grn.

First ones coated with YZ-2,then lubed to keep blackpowder residue soft. These are from the first casting session,not perfect yet. But I can start fooling around with them.

[Petander]

LB1 / Fire Red -mix, generously baked. Waxed for a muzzleloader.

[Maven]

Nicely done!

[HI-TEK]

How very unusual, would be interested in how they work out. They look good.

[HI-TEK]

Petander
The fire red and LB 1 mix also looks great. I always wonder why there is a use of Black powder type load. What is the functions of the black powder?
What is the function of the wax?

[Petander]

Petander
The fire red and LB 1 mix also looks great. I always wonder why there is a use of Black powder type load. What is the functions of the black powder?
What is the function of the wax?

Joe,

black powder is just a way of going back in time... a "Dark Side Hobby" really. I have managed to avoid BP until now...

Natural wax keeps black powder fouling soft. Mine is beeswax,lanolin and lard. You can shoot more without cleaning between shots and final cleaning is easy. Combined with Hi Tek,there's no leading either and obviously no handling of bare lead.

I was hitting claybirds on a 75 m berm yesterday,this is a brand new bullet for me. Coating holds just fine @ 1250 fps,of course.

[Petander]

I'm being told that Black Powder melts coatings and coats barrels with plastic after a few shots. Finnish BP shooters say it is so. It's so funny how people who never tried Hi Tek keep sharing these generalizations.

No melting here.

[HI-TEK]

I'm being told that Black Powder melts coatings and coats barrels with plastic after a few shots. Finnish BP shooters say it is so. It's so funny how people who never tried Hi Tek keep sharing these generalizations.

No melting here.

Petander
I am always amazed at some folks understanding about coatings, especially if they have not used Hi-Tek. Once Hi-Tek is fully cured, it will be most difficult to soften or dissolve in most solvents and cleaners. So I cannot understand how it could be suggested that black powder will soften or interfere with the Hi-Tek coating. As far as history goes, there has never been any reports from any one about gun powder of any sort affecting the totally cured Hi-Tek coating. May be, I can assume, that such comment may have been made after people had bad results using other coatings. It is quite possible. I have never heard such a complaint in 32 plus years with Hi-Tek. It amazes me, with some of the things that seem to be getting around and without any submission of proof.

[Avenger442]

44 Mag 091815 Gunmetal coating 2.jpg
1st Home Made Black Powder test 15 yd ,44 070616.jpg

First test black powder

Some years ago I decided to make my own black powder. Initially it was for rockets. Then I decided to try it in a 44 magnum shell with a bullet coated with Hi Tek. I didn't put the grease and wax mix in the lube grooves but on the tail end of the bullet with a wad between it and the powder. Test with it were okay at 15 yards. But black powder was so messy I had to clean the revolver often to keep it where it would fire. The barrel was not that bad to clean and had no lead or Hi Tek in it. If I ever got to where I couldn't get powder I could still
shoot. Based on that experience and other that I have had with Hi Tek I would find it highly unlikely that fully cured coating would come off in a barrel.

Black Powder Pucks.jpg

This is the black powder I made and compressed into pucks before grinding to the appropriate grade. As you can see by the date on the paper they were drying on it was 2016.

It ended up being a little messy and consumed too much time cleaning the gun and I haven't tried it since. But the powder tested as powerful as some store bought I had.

[Papercidal]

Petander
I am always amazed at some folks understanding about coatings, especially if they have not used Hi-Tek. Once Hi-Tek is fully cured, it will be most difficult to soften or dissolve in most solvents and cleaners. So I cannot understand how it could be suggested that black powder will soften or interfere with the Hi-Tek coating. As far as history goes, there has never been any reports from any one about gun powder of any sort affecting the totally cured Hi-Tek coating. May be, I can assume, that such comment may have been made after people had bad results using other coatings. It is quite possible. I have never heard such a complaint in 32 plus years with Hi-Tek. It amazes me, with some of the things that seem to be getting around and without any submission of proof.

I’ve remelted plenty of culled bullets after coating to skim a bullet shaped eggshell of hi-tec off the top of the pot so if the coating holds up to more than the melt point of the base alloy I don’t see how a powder that doesn’t melt the bullet itself would melt the coating.

[HI-TEK]

This is what was done years ago by a US company who wanted to see what happens when the coated cast was heated with a propane torch.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/wG4pCPSWk_A

[Avenger442]

Could there be some chemical produced by the black powder and lube that they are referring to? That is the only other thing I can think of that might lend credibility to such a statement. It is, as shown, not the heat. Lubes are typically some type of grease, wax or combination of the two. Bees wax has been a common lube since they hunted buffalo in the old west. "When black powder burns, it produces several gases, primarily carbon dioxide (CO2) and nitrogen (N2), along with solid residues such as potassium carbonate and potassium sulfate." Doesn't sound like the powder. So a combination?

Again, I didn't have a problem with it in my test. And Petander hasn't had a problem using black powder and Hi Tek. So just from that I would tend to discount the idea.

[Petander]

They meant the heat.

Oh well.