Making that Bullet Collator

[Grootjoseph]

I just glue it in with superglue

[r4ndy]

Don’t have this happen, try turning the drop tube a little - thinking the spring may be winding a bit when turning to lock.

[Gillie Dog]

I put O-rings on them to create friction between the tube and spring adapter, sometimes a stack is needed....

Everybody has a different idea of course..........


GD

[rogerandre]

I put O-rings on them to create friction between the tube and spring adapter, sometimes a stack is needed....

Everybody has a different idea of course..........


GD

Ahhh O-rings sounds like a good idea. Also allows me to split the tube and spring adapter when a deformed case gets stuck in the adapter.
Will give this a shot. Thanks alot !

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !

There are two different models of the brass slide adjuster (Brass_Slide_Adjuster.stl and Brass_Slide_Adjuster_Alt.stl).
Any recommendation on when to use what model ? Looking to optimize the feeding of 223 Rem cases.

[SMOOVEBRANE]

Taking the dive and going in on this project so I can have a good feeder for my induction annealer.

Decided to go in on a 3D printer instead of farming it out as the cost to print all the items online came out to the same price as a printer...
I sprung for a CC2 knowing that I may want to print CF for other rifle projects, so hopefully I didn't **** up that choice as there were many.

Reading some of the forum it seems like there are a lot of tips and tricks for printing - are there any established "gotchas" or common points of ****ups?

[r4ndy]

The design and the manual for this project are fantastic, follow the instructions and print setting recommendations and you should be good to go. My tips would be to find a filament that works good in your printer and to use the proximity sensor vs a switch or the photo sensor. Overture PLA pro was a recommendation I think I got here at one point and it has worked well for me on 3 different printers over the years. As to the prox sensor; I had issues with photo sensors failing quickly from a few different vendors and switched to the prox which have been flawless. Good luck!

[stanford]

I have a question for you guys. If you have an stl file and you want to lengthen it by about 23mm without changing anything else what are you using? I tried using TinkerCAD but it doesn't do the print correctly as its leaning forward when I increased the length, I tried it twice and it didn't come out right just a waste of about 6 hours. I just want to extend the exit part of the funnel by about 23mm, I also would like to know how to do it on a print like this in case I have to change the length again.

On this page its the Funnel: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902058/files

Thanks guys.

[RedlegEd]

I have a question for you guys. If you have an stl file and you want to lengthen it by about 23mm without changing anything else what are you using? I tried using TinkerCAD but it doesn't do the print correctly as its leaning forward when I increased the length, I tried it twice and it didn't come out right just a waste of about 6 hours. I just want to extend the exit part of the funnel by about 23mm, I also would like to know how to do it on a print like this in case I have to change the length again.

On this page its the Funnel: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4902058/files

Thanks guys.

Hi,
You can do it in your slicer if you use Orca or Bambu Studio (not sure about Cura or others.) Here's a video explaining how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QYRWXe14yA.
Regards,
Ed

[stanford]

Hi,
You can do it in your slicer if you use Orca or Bambu Studio (not sure about Cura or others.) Here's a video explaining how. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QYRWXe14yA.
Regards,
Ed

I do use Bambu Studio, let me take a look.

Thanks.

[r4ndy]

I’m a hack with Tinkercad…what I would do is copy the part and create a copy of the piece and make a negative square space to eliminate all but the last few mm of the funnel then join with the copied piece leaving just a little of the tip of the funnel. Then increase the Z dimension of the leftover tip and align with the end of the funnel of the original and merge.

[Gillie Dog]

Not exactly sure, is this what you are looking for, it is 23mm longer. Tinkercad done like r4ndy says. Same I do.

Takes just a minute or two after process is understood.

GD


Longer.zip

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Anyone that have hooked up the collator towards a Lee Six Pack ?
Looking for inspiration on the feeding from the collator to the Lee Six Pack.

[Gillie Dog]

I do both bullets and cases. It will take a few days before I can do pictures. For cases, all ideas and base parts came from here and then made custom parts and printed for each caliber. I used Tylers APP inserts as basis for case drop tubes and customized length to match each caliber so no adjustment between calibers is needed, just change set up parts, takes 5 minutes to change calibers. Works properly all the time. For bullets I use LEE bullet drop dies with custom drop tube and regular springs and prox set up. Been so long I will have to go back and look at notes/parts.

Probably more than 10K done to date. Been several months since I have run though.

Stand by for a few days.

GD

[Gillie Dog]

Well since the lost posts will not be returned after the database hiccup. I will repost the sideways pictures and blurry video.

The clear tube support attached to the head of the press and case drop tube/inserts support were modified from GWS parts, all the other pieces were modified from Tylers pieces.

The collators all the way down to bottom spring adapters are stock Tyler parts. All other parts are modified for the application shown.

Cases were deprimed and cleaned, not sized but flared in the powder drop for the demonstration.

GD


https://youtube.com/shorts/v_u1r8XUkUA?feature=share


IMG_2557.jpeg IMG_2558.jpeg

[rogerandre]

Dear Team !
Anyone that have made new sweeper versions with a cut for the ridge on the main body ?
Ridge.jpg
Best regards