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Thread: Spreading case lube throughout

  1. #1
    Boolit Master SiliconeSword's Avatar
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    Spreading case lube throughout

    With the Lee full length sizing dies for bottleneck cases for me there's lots of friction/expander pin abrasion which has resulted in stuck cases or damaged rims a number of times on rougher brass. Decided instead of flooding my cases with the usual alcohol+lanolin and wasting a lot, I add slightly more then normal to a container with a lid and shaking the brass thoroughly, I add really hot water and shake again. This seems to spread the lube inside the case as well since the retraction of my full length sizing is now 1/3 the force. How much lube inside the case, idk. I'm gonna be pin tumbling until the inside is shiny as I'm sure lanolin infused powder is no good.

    Maybe not needed for everything but for the 2K 300blk cases I sized recently or the 4K 5.56 before that I wish I'd have had this trick........

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    On harder to size cases I use imperial sizing wax, dip the case into the wax maybe 1/32nd of an inch. Just leaves a little ring of wax on the edge, some goes in, some out.

    First couple cases get dipped and once all is going smooth I just put a paper matchhead size lump and squeeze between thumb and forefinger of left hand. It picks up cases, rubs them a little and in they go.

    When they start feeling harder to cycle through one gets dipped again and on we go.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use a dedicated towel and imperial sizing die wax to lube large numbers of cases. starting out with a new towel you need to really watch the cases once the towel is impregnated it becomes quick and easy.
    Heres how it do this
    lay towel on a flat surface
    pour cases on towel
    put a small amount of imperial sizing die wax spreading it thru cases
    pick up ends of towel 2 corners ( narrow ends) in each hand
    lift up so towel form a u
    Slowly raise and lower hands until lube is dispersed.
    Once the toel is impregnated you need less lube and the process is quick

  4. #4
    Boolit Master


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    I also use Imperial size die wax. Almost through my first small can after 30+ years. It goes a looong way. I use a q-tip with a little on the tip and rub it around inside the case necks. I have tried the Lanolin mix and it just doesn't seem to give me the lubricity the Imperial does.
    Good Luck, and take care,
    Rick

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Another fan of Imperial sizing wax.

    After I moved my metallic reloading setup from the outbuilding to the basement I could not find the wax and had to get some .223 cases loaded. No time to order more. Ended up using coconut oil and it worked. By the time the new wax was delivered the old tin was discovered.
    Don Verna


  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy gumbo333's Avatar
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    RickinTN has the easy method. Been doing this probably close to 49 yrs.Worn out Qtips perfect . Still using my first tin of Imperial. It’s going too out last me.
    Never trade luck for skill.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A simple stand can be made for lubing inside necks.

    materials needed
    a piece of wood or something for a base. a bottle cap a short bolt or pin. epoxy.
    For the base a piece of 2 1/2" to 3" dia material 3/4" thick makes a stable base
    An aluminum bottle cap makes a nice little cup (like on a monster drink can)
    a short pin or bolt 3/4" long the straight pin is better.
    drill a 1/2" deep hole 8x32 in the pin
    drill a hole on center of base 1/2" deep and thru cap size of pin. Glue pin in base leaving 1/4-3/8 protruding
    glue cap to base and pin.

    You can now use a nylon cleaning brush or mopp screwed into the pin. A small amount of Imperial sizing die wax or motor mica in the cap. Slide case over brush down to lube and pull off the brush will become impregnated and lube necks w9ith a fine film

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I've been standing my bottle neck cases in a loading block and spraying "One Shot" diagonally down at the cases from a few directions. I don't get crazy about it, just so that it mists down into the case neck. I let it dry completely, and trust Hornady's claim that it won't affect power or primers.

    After they're dry, I'll try full sizing, and depending on the cartridge they might be lubed enough to size. If not, I'll toss them flat in a pan, and shoot them a little more as I shake them around.

    I don't like the price of "One Shot" but it has become a pretty good part of my arsenal.
    ALWAYS LET IT DRY!! jd
    It seems that people who do almost nothing, often complain loudly when it's time to do it.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    I still use the old RCBS lube pad, ugh. Then I dip the neck in the container of Midway Mica Lube powder. Seems to work well, but not quick and convenient. I like the idea of spraying the necks with Hornady spray lube. Might just give that a try.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master SiliconeSword's Avatar
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    Imperial sounds good for cases that are really difficult to size and I've done the q tip thing with lanolin, but while it worked better than not it took too long to do. Getting rid of processes where possible is super important to me as this trick has probably saved me an hour so far and could've saved me many more hours had I known it sooner. Or it'd have left my arm, back, and shoulder less tired all those times. The tumbling time means nothing to me as I can just walk away and do something better. Draining, rinsing, and separating pins is sub 5 minutes for a good 500 pieces of 5.56 sized brass for me.

    I tried dipping case necks in the mix but the pressure/surface tension wouldn't let enough lube inside when the spent primer was in. I could get mica but that'd still be individual handling I'm able to avoid

  11. #11
    Boolit Bub WashingMike's Avatar
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    I use the carbide expander ball you can buy for your FL dies. Then you don’t have to mess with lubing the inside of the case necks. I have a nylon brush that fits the neck threaded into my reloading bench top. I run the brush inside the neck on the way to my press to clean it and it makes it slick as can be.Works for me.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Alcohol and RCBS case lube in a baggie for BO & 30/30. Finger apply to 308 cases.
    Whatever!

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use a gallon ZipLoc bag. I'll put a few handfuls of brass in it, shake the bottle of lube for a minute and give the brass a couple of squirts. This seems to get into the case neck.

  14. #14
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    Minerat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightman View Post
    I use a gallon ZipLoc bag. I'll put a few handfuls of brass in it, shake the bottle of lube for a minute and give the brass a couple of squirts. This seems to get into the case neck.
    Me too.

    I use a RCBS case neck brush rolled on an old greased pad with RCBS stp lube on the inside of the necks about every 5.
    Steve,

    Life Member NRA
    Colorado Rifle Club member

  15. #15
    Boolit Master


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    I find that STP reduces the effort required quite a bit over the lanolin and alcohol mixture.
    The STP will not mix directly into the alcohol, I mix mineral spirits with the STP first and then thin with alcohol.
    I have to try the RCBS lube and alcohol mix.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master brassrat's Avatar
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    I never had any problems with just rolling on a pad with Fiebings Mink oil. Nothing inside. Also used a few other things and still have a full Imperial.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check