The Arisaka....Tell me about them

[beechbum444]

Evening :

Long story short, I've always wanted an Arisaka because of my relatives being WWII vets and just having a love of history and arms. However, I did not want to load another caliber. Lately, I have seen a few chambered in 30-06 and I'm curious. These had to have been re-chambered/ re barreled post WWII or when the surplus market was cheap.....and then 100 questions pop in my head.....how strong is the action....how do 30-06 rounds chamber ....are there any tell tell signs that it was a poor job...what is the value of one of these.....I could go on and on, but I'm sure folks on here have either had issues or have a story or two to tell.........good, bad.....I know next to nothing about these rifles except they were Japanese rifles during WWII.........Anyways, any and all info is appreciated

[K43]

The Koreans used surrendered Japanese 7.7 rifles rechambered to 30-06 as an expedient arm during the Korean War. The groove diameter of 7.7x58 is .312 so if you want best possible accuracy, you'll be reloading 30-06 cases with .312 bullets anyway.
Might as well get 7.7 dies and 7.7 brass or convert 30-06 to 7.7. It's not that big a deal.

[Delkal]

Why I fondled many I do not have an Arisaka. But from what I read it is the strongest action used in WWII (Hatcher? And non last ditch actions of course).

They are still relatively cheap so don't mess with a rechambered rifle. You don't know who did it and it is nothing but a sporter.

[TNsailorman]

According to Ackley, the Arisaka action is one of the strongest actions made by any military. Stronger than a 98 Mauser according to him. At least that is what I remember. james

[36g]

As has been stated, the Arisaka actions were one of the strongest military actions made (exceptions were the training rifles). I'd leave one in the original caliber and just load your own. In recent years they have started to become more pricey as have many milsurps.

If you want to really spend some money look for a Type 1 or 2 Paratrooper rifle (takedown) or one of the "Garand" types that were Japan's attempt to copy the M1 Garand.

For a sweet little carbine look at a Type 38 in 6.5 mm. The one that I had had a glass-smooth action and was quite handy.

[Bigslug]

The Brits looked at the Mauser, liked what they saw, decided they could do a few things better, and we got the P14/M1917.

The Japanese had similar notions, and we got the Type 38 and Type 99. The 6.5x50 Type 38 will perform about like the Carcanos and Swedes; the 7.7x58 for the Type 99 was heavily inspired by the .303 Brit and is basically that round, but rimless.

They simplified the soldier's takedown of the bolt greatly, and the huge bolt cap / safety is going to do at least as well at protecting the shooter from ruptured case gasses as the Mauser 98's shroud. They were the first to chrome plate a bore, and also took the additional step of plating the bolt face. Weirdest thing to me is that you can't hold the trigger as you close the bolt to ease the striker down. At least, if you can, I haven't handled them enough to figure out how yet.

They're picking up enough in value and historical interest that it would be ludicrous to alter an unaltered one. There are sporterized ones available, but honestly, if you want a scoped .30-06, you have about 20 bazillion other, less likely to be a Bubba job options. The strength of the action isn't much in question - how well the conversion was done is.

The concern I'd have with a pre-done sporter. . .I'd want to give myself enough of an education on markings to have some idea if the receiver came from an earlier rifle made in the time that the Japanese felt they were going to conquer all the way to Australia, versus a "last ditch" production in which the degree of corner-cutting grew from mild to extreme as the B-29's progressively hammered their logistics.

[frkelly74]

IMG_0699.jpg. This is one I got pretty cheap a while ago.. It is in the original 6.5 X 50 chambering and has a long barrel, a nice stock and will shoot.

[PhilC]

The concern I'd have with a pre-done sporter. . .I'd want to give myself enough of an education on markings to have some idea if the receiver came from an earlier rifle made in the time that the Japanese felt they were going to conquer all the way to Australia, versus a "last ditch" production in which the degree of corner-cutting grew from mild to extreme as the B-29's progressively hammered their logistics.

Important points. I lucked out with a sporter purchased from a different forum. Chrome lined bore slugged @ .312", turned original bolt, Lyman peep sight, full Mum, all numbers match and in what I believe is a cheek piece Fajen stock.

[Cast10]

My Type 99 came from a family member during WWII in the Pacific. Clean. All markings showing. I’ve toy’d with the idea of rechambering to 7mm Mauser……….just a thought.

[MUSTANG]

I have one that sat in the safe for decades; then took it out in 2022 and played with it a bit (original, still 7.7 caliber/chamber). One can see my write up on developing a cast load at: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...der&highlight=

It is obviously iron sites. I had cataract surgery in January on my shooting eye, still waiting for that whole "Corrective action" to be fully worked out, but improving. In 2022 my groups could have been impacted by the cataracts - so one day I am looking to see if I can do better, maybe this winter.

Get a set of 7.7 dies, then get the Arisaka out and shoot it - Best wishes.

[Adam Helmer]

beechbum444,

The .30-06 conversion is a looser, in my opinion. I have original 7.7 and 6-5MM Jap rifles, shoot and reload for them all. The 7.7 is a good round and the 6.5 is my favorite woods deer rifle in PA.

Adam

[Harter66]

I read once that after several attempts to blow up a Type 38 with blatant deliberate over charges etc it had an 06' reamer run in the 6.5 x50 chamber just far enough to close the bolt . After firing the extruded 30 to 6.5 150 gr fmj was collected. The barrel threads were stripped off and remained in the receiver. The barrel was 30 feet from the bench.

I've loaded for both type 38&99 examples. My last effort with the 7.7 with its .3165 groove resulted in basically 8×57J loads and using an 8×57 neck die ( the early J has
318 groove vs .323) .

The 6.5×50 had a .270 groove and required improved sizing among other things. I was able to get correct brass after a fashion. 35 Rem was a fail as my example didn't have enough extractor to hold the case . The various 308 family were ok but required special tooling for the head bulge above the extractor groove. In a curious almost ironic twist I found that the 6.5 CM brass swallows almost all of the head bulge in the extractor groove . As a bonus it comes out of the die no trim, right at book length .

The last point of interest is that they have Metford rifling . It will appear as 4 lumps and dips at something like.314×.308 and.268×.260 . Paper Patch seems like it wants to work.

[ttd444]

My Type 99 has a rebarrel in 30-06. I checked as I thought it was 311-06 or 312-06 but it is at .3083". Some of the 99s are Korean chamber while others are a true 30-06. It looks as if it has a old Springfield barrel, the only thing the barrel has is 30-06 marked on it.