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Thread: Aluma Hyde? How well has it worked for you?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


    K43's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
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    The Swamp
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    2,094
    As I think back, I washed my aluminum upper with brake parts cleaner, pre-warmed it, and sprayed a very light coat. When it dried, like a half hour, I sprayed another final cover coat and placed it in the oven at 150F. I let it cool to the touch with the oven door open and was done.
    I've only airbrushed DuraCoat or Cerakote since then, so don't know if it's changed any in 24 years.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Nov 2015
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    Central NY
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    3,649
    Brownell’s has very specific directions on preparation, spraying and subsequent coats. Definitely need to shake it well . Warm clean parts and then heat curing makes it a very durable finish. Although it takes a while to fully cure it did not run or stay sticky that long.
    “A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition”

    – Rudyard Kipling

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    May 2012
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    Boonesborough, KY
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    7,381
    Ok, I think I'm getting the hang of it. This stuff does take quite awhile to cure, I checked it again on saturday and the former soft spots seemed to be solid and bonded. I lightly sanded it with 320 grit and applied another coat, I'll let it dry for 10 days and then touch up any areas that need it.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check