Trimming brass

[Chikinfishin]

I have an LE Wilson that I wouldn't be without. I decided to get something made for accuracy not speed. Your not setting a new productivity record with it.

It repeats and adjusts in .001" increments. I also use it to get crimps out of primer pockets. The company makes a special case holder for pistol brass that uses a wedge pin that will speed you up. Power drill adapter is available to. Brownells is a good source for this unit. My decked out one is maybe $250. It is a stainless steel tank.

I trim hunting loads in 357. Mainly because the longer ones had a tendency to over flare and have a mild bulge after crimping. Then they won't fit the chambers in my revolver. I noticed the chrono results got tighter with identical crimps to.

Good luck OP.

[deces]

The zip-trim works well with some 3-d printed adapters for the tiny shell holders. It's too bad that Lee's 3-jaw chuck didn't work well.

[725]

I have the Lee Zip trim and it works very well for me. They have a life limit as I have had to have Lee repair / replace a couple of them (due to heavy use). Generally, I'd say they work very well. I bought an RCBS pro and it was OK, but rough with occasional slips out of the jaws. I still have it and use it on odd-ball stuff, from time to time. I "graduated" to the LE Wilson trimmer and, by far, prefer it to ease of use and absolute accuracy. Only downer is that you need to buy the case holder specific to the case you are cutting. Have never cut .357 cases with it, but it is "THE MAN" for bottle neck cases. Extremely accurate & repeatable.

[Rich/WIS]

I started with a Forster trimmer about 50+ years ago and only change I made was to unscrew the crank handle and use a battery drill. Over the years picked up two additional shafts and set them for the other calibers I reload. After trimming use the inside and outside chamfer tools in the Lyman gold colored handle set. Took a broken cleaning rod and cut the threaded portion to about an inch and chuck it into the battery drill. Works like a charm and makes trimming and chamfering quick and easy.

[Slugster]

I use a Forster trimmer for length then chuck up an L.E. Wilson de-burr/chamfer tool on my lathe. Do all of the de-burring, flip tool and chamfer. Works for me YMMV.

[murf205]

I have an old Lyman and it is ok but the chamfer and reaming is what hurts my surgically repaired hand. I can't remember who makes it but I have seen a chamfer/reamer took with a wooden handle that looks a bunch more controllable to me. I have the L.E Wilson tool and inside neck reaming attachments so it looks like my best bet, as far as accuracy goes, would be to order the wedge pin and die and cutter. No need to wimp out now, I've spent 2 life savings on this affliction already.

[challenger_i]

Once upon a time, both Lyman and RCBS made inside/outside hand deburring tools with a handle: Lyman was wood and RCBS was a clear green polymer.

[K43]

Whatever you do, get a decent chamfering tool and throw the LEE thimble looking thing in the steel scrap bucket.

[Delkal]

Whatever you do, get a decent chamfering tool and throw the LEE thimble looking thing in the steel scrap bucket.

For match ammo and accuracy maybe. But for trimming 500-1000+ cases the Lee in a drill press is the only way to go. You would have blisters on your thumbs and carpal tunnel using a hand turned lathe style trimmer. I know this from first hand experience.

[K43]

For match ammo and accuracy maybe. But for trimming 500-1000+ cases the Lee in a drill press is the only way to go. You would have blisters on your thumbs and carpal tunnel using a hand turned lathe style trimmer. I know this from first hand experience.

I was speaking of the cheap little Lee thimble looking chamfering tool.

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[Shawlerbrook]

I ream and chamfer in a separate operation. Also deburr the case mouth using a nut driver bit stuffed with steel wool in a power screwdriver. I’m not a high volume reloader. Usually 50 is the max at a time.