I won't give up on Lee 200gr SWC in 1911 - but I'm sure struggling

[gidaeon]

I already ordered a replacement Tisas barrel. I’ll be more cautious if I elect to cut the replacement for 1/32” gap. I also will check the frame ramp more to ensure that was even cut or angled right.

Bummer since it feeds now but it’s important to me any gun be safe with any factory load (potentially) even though my loads are always quite light relative to premium factory.

[jsizemore]

45DUDE's pics are an excellent guide for what and how much material to remove. As long as the barrel is clear of the frame ramp you are fine. You'll notice where his barrel meets the frame has a fine edge. Not a knife edge but but no extra as far as height. It's a straight line from that edge to edge where the ramp and chamber meet. That edge where ramp meets chamber should have only the minimum material removed. NO POWER TOOLS TO ACCOMPLISH THIS! Very light passes with a piece crocus cloth so the sharp edge is gone. And then POLISH the ramp and edge with the felt tip moving constantly. Go slow and check your work often which is always the procedure for working on guns and ammo. And it all doesn't have to be done in one sitting.

[45DUDE]

[QUOTE=gidaeon;5907300]I already ordered a replacement Tisas barrel. XXXXX Measure the new barrel to fit like the original. The barrel looks properly fit to your gun. Chances are fair it may drop in with little fitting being it's a Tisas barrel. Rear of the lug looks good. Maybe put a piece of thin paper between the hood and face and drop the slide to see if it cuts the paper. Good luck. A new barrel may work with a lswc without doing anything.

[jsizemore]

I should have mentioned that the frame ramp should only be polished.