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Thread: (357 Magnum) Out of these molds, which mold are you going for regarding accuracy?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    (357 Magnum) Out of these molds, which mold are you going for regarding accuracy?

    These will strictly be used for sighting in a 357 Magnum Ruger GP100 and looking for accuracy and nothing else. Throats are all .357 so anything .358 or .359 should be fine.

    The molds I have to choose from are:

    358311
    358429
    358416
    35875
    358430
    358495
    NOE 360-182
    MP 360-640
    358212
    Lee LH 358-158 (I don't know which one this is but it looks like a RF)

  2. #2
    Boolit Mold
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    358495

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    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRAPDOOR 4570 View Post
    358495
    +1 on this.
    Paper targets aren't your friends. They won't lie for you and they don't care if your feelings get hurt.

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    Boolit Buddy
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    358495 with 358429 as a possibility to try.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    358311 Round Nose are typically more accurate.

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    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Straight accuracy, I'd go with the 358311.
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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    either the 358-311 or the 358-495. One or the other will likely be your most accurate.

    But you list a couple that I never have used, the 358-416 and the 360-340. I have the 360-640L, but have only used it as a HP, and somewhere I have a 359-640 which also has been an HP only design for me. The 358-416 was supposedly designed for the Pennsylvania Police to duplicate their Colt 38 Special ammunition and looks to be very accurate. One that you did not mention but is a dandy is the 358-477. It was the most accurate Plain Base SWC in my testing back in the early 80's between it, the 358-429, 358-446 and the 38-162 RCBS (which was poor without gas checks but outstanding with them.)
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Depending on the gun and load, you might end up getting better accuracy from a gas checked bullet rather than a plain based bullet. You specified 357 Magnum, but didn't mention if you'd be loading to full magnum pressures.


    A couple of bullets you didn't mention, I've had good accuracy with the RCBS 38-150-SWC which is very similar to the 358477. Another one I have had good accuracy with is the Lee 358-140-SWC.

    I've pushed both in the 357 Magnum and had groups in the sub 1.5" range at 25 yards, rested, with a handgun. At closer ranges like 15 yards, they both are capable of cloverleafs or better when rested.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by unique View Post
    358311 Round Nose are typically more accurate.
    This^^^^^

    Couldn't even begin to count how many of those cast (4-cavity mold) rn bullets I shot over the decades. Heck, did a neck-shot on a deer that was trotting @ 40yds with that 358311. That bullet is accurate enough that I didn't give that shot a second thought.

    I have 2 other 158gr rn/rnfp's bullets that I cast right now. Either of the will easily hold +/- 2" 6-shot groups @ 50yds using range scrap lead and mixed brass.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    You specified 357 Magnum, but didn't mention if you'd be loading to full magnum pressures.
    What do you consider full magnum pressures? I will be using magnum powder and primers but I don't plan to push it hard, probably on the starting side of the load data. Probably use 296 around 13.5gr

    I would imagine FPS wouldn't be much past 1,100fps. What do you guys think?

    Edit: These will be powder coated
    Last edited by Stopsign32v; Yesterday at 05:09 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    A starting load of W296 isn't "full magnum" pressure, but I was more thinking: "Are you going to make 38 Special loads in magnum cases?" So, no, technically you won't be into full magnum pressure, but with W296 you don't have much room for anything considered light loads.

    I'm not suggesting you should make light loads, I was just asking, what pressure level are you going to be loading at?

    I have had the best success with W296 at the upper end of the data rather than the lower end. Nothing wrong with shooting magnum loads for target, if you like that. I like it.
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    A starting load of W296 isn't "full magnum" pressure, but I was more thinking: "Are you going to make 38 Special loads in magnum cases?" So, no, technically you won't be into full magnum pressure, but with W296 you don't have much room for anything considered light loads.

    I'm not suggesting you should make light loads, I was just asking, what pressure level are you going to be loading at?

    I have had the best success with W296 at the upper end of the data rather than the lower end. Nothing wrong with shooting magnum loads for target, if you like that. I like it.
    Massive respect for you Bazoo, so first let me get that out of the way.

    I do not want "plinking loads" and I really don't want sub 1,000fps 38 Special loads, be it light or hot. I do not care to flame cut the forcing cone with some Buffalo Bore loads. But I want something that will be accurate and will be within 357 Magnum loads.

    Truth be told, I'm taking this revolver to the range to see where it hits with the sights right now so I can in turn order the correct Dawson front sight.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stopsign32v View Post
    Massive respect for you Bazoo, so first let me get that out of the way.

    I do not want "plinking loads" and I really don't want sub 1,000fps 38 Special loads, be it light or hot. I do not care to flame cut the forcing cone with some Buffalo Bore loads. But I want something that will be accurate and will be within 357 Magnum loads.

    Truth be told, I'm taking this revolver to the range to see where it hits with the sights right now so I can in turn order the correct Dawson front sight.
    Thanks. I think I came off the wrong way. I was in no way trying to disuade you or diminish what you're doing. I was just wondering what power level of loads you're thinking of.
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    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    Thanks. I think I came off the wrong way. I was in no way trying to disuade you or diminish what you're doing. I was just wondering what power level of loads you're thinking of.
    You absolutely did not. I just wanted to point out how there are several members here that through the years I've grown to respect greatly, and you made the cut.

    So knowing what my plan is, how would I best go about doing it? Bullets will be powder coated so hopefully no leading (however I know gas checked also aids in accuracy sometimes).

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Stopsign32v's Avatar
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    If I could ask one question...

    Why is no one really saying the MP 360-640? I figured with modern mold cutting and designs you guys would have unanimously choose that one.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I do not use any Lyman molds, but a 160 RN such as 358311 is hard to beat. I run a 160 in either a RN or RNFP and get good results. A final diameter the gun is happy with and a good clean edge on the base periphery are essential to accuracy.

    I did a good bit of searching for IHMSA loads and wanted 3 MOA. Around 5 MOA was just barely ok. For me, Win 296 in 35 cal did best at very close to or just over 100% fill. In 357 mag, this is a full power load near max achievable velocity.

    A 357 magnum cast bullet shooter in search of accuracy might be better served with something in the Blue Dot to 2400 burn rate range. With today's availability issues, powders such as AA #7, AA #9, AA 4100, SW Major Pistol, SW Heavy Pistol, Enforcer, N-105, and Longshot are the choices I would look at.

    For me, I scored a good deal on some Heavy Pistol just before the Biden era and have been happy with it. With Heavy Pistol on the fast side of the magnum pistol spectrum and some Wc 680 (milsurp version of AA 1680) on the slow side, my stash of H110 may never get used up.
    Last edited by P Flados; Yesterday at 11:27 PM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    As far as velocity, you have indicated revolver, but not barrel length. In the gun specified, 4"/4.2" are probably most common.

    My 160 WFN load with Heavy Pistol got 96% of QL predicted velocity when fired out of a TC contender (no cylinder gap loss). The pressure for my load is "magnum" but probably only around 30 ksi.

    For a 4" revolver I would expect a velocity of around 1214 fps from this load based on a shorter barrel QL run, ~50 fps cylinder gap loss, and my powder at 96% of predicted. The QL numbers for this are:

    Code:
    Cartridge          : .357 Magnum (SAAMI)
    Bullet             : .358, 160 WFN formed
    Cartridge O.A.L. L6: 1.582 inch = 40.18 mm
    Barrel Length      : 5.7 inch = 144.8 mm
    Powder             : Shooters World Heavy Pistol
    
    Step    Fill. Charge   Vel.  Energy   Pmax   Pmuz  Prop.Burnt B_Time
     %       %    Grains   fps   ft.lbs    psi    psi      %        ms
    +00.0   79    12.79   1312     612   31835   7723     86.2    0.570  ! Near Maximum !
    In a 6" revolver, my load should get a velocity in the mid 1300s.

    For a full power 296 load under a 160 gr boolit, I would expect higher.
    Last edited by P Flados; Today at 12:25 AM.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    That's a mighty nice compliment, thank you kindly.

    Gas checks help accuracy in 2 primary ways. First, they make the base more consistent. They don't get damaged during the loading process nearly as easily. Second, they scrape the barrel clean of fouling so that the barrel is in the same condition from one shot to the next.

    I think you'll find the best accuracy above the starting charge of W296. Of course the range for W296 is pretty small, but I'd split it in 5 steps and test the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd steps right off the bat. I always give W296 a firm crimp. I haven't checked the numbers to test it, but I want it to have the best ignition.

    You should test all the bullets available to you at some point. If you have a good feeling about the 360-640 then I say go for it. I didn't suggest it because I haven't had hardly any experience with it.
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  19. #19
    Boolit Master murf205's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stopsign32v View Post
    These will strictly be used for sighting in a 357 Magnum Ruger GP100 and looking for accuracy and nothing else. Throats are all .357 so anything .358 or .359 should be fine.

    The molds I have to choose from are:

    358311
    358429
    358416
    35875
    358430
    358495
    NOE 360-182
    MP 360-640
    358212
    Lee LH 358-158 (I don't know which one this is but it looks like a RF)
    With all the throats .357 you might as well size to .357 since that is what the barrel should measure (slug) also. What ever you shoot in this gun is going to go into the forcing cone at .357. This makes all the better case for a gas check boolit or powder coated if plain base. I have never seen a properly installed gas check hurt accuracy.36-160H-D.jpgIMG_0864.jpg I know that this boolit is not on your list and it is not a round nose as others have very wisely recommended, but this one from Accurate is about like having your cake and eating it too.
    IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. "All those the Father gives me will come to me, and whoever comes to me I will never drive away"--John 6:37

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check