As the title indicates, I am looking for some info on using this stuff. I have a pair of S&W M-10 gunsmith specials that I got from J&G in AZ that I have re-barreled but which need some help finish wise. I looked at cerakote, but that requires a bunch of preparation (involving tools I don't have, eg. sand blasting equipment) seemingly not required by the Brownells product. So I'm looking for some help here.
Pics would be nice, too!
Last edited by rintinglen; 03-24-2022 at 07:59 PM.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
Benelli used Aluma Hyde II on a barrel repair on a SBE of mine. They did the whole barrel with Aluma Hyde II. Initially I was not very happy but it has held up very well. That was 5 years ago. That shotgun is my primary waterfowl gun and it is hunted hard. It has held up very well.
Last edited by M-Tecs; 03-24-2022 at 10:05 PM.
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I've used Dura- coat( Lauer) and the old GunKote and they've lasted pretty well. I'm no help on the Alumahyde, sorry.
I've seen those gunsmith specials- very tempting. Where did you get the barrels that you used?
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I've had good luck with Alumahyde II. I have a Star Mod. B 9mm pistol that was rusty when I purchased it. I cleaned the rust off and it was fairly presentable, but about every 3-4 months it would start to rust again. I think it was because I carried it very close to my hot body under a jacket where conditions were sometimes humid. Finally I decided to refinish it to seal the surface against moisture. I looked at all the available systems, as you are doing, and came up with Alumahyde II as being the most practical solution. It's been about 8 years now, and other than a little paint flaking off at the notch in the slide that holds it open and right around the magazine release button the finish remains intact. It's not the most beautiful finish available, but is certainly practical, relatively inexpensive, and has overall held up well for being carried about 4 days a week. Read and follow the directions carefully. Better to apply several thin coats over several days than to try and do it in one session. After the last coat let it dry/cure for several days before using.
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DG
Cerakote, air or oven cure, should be put on a sand blasted surface to be durable. It takes broken granule sand with sharp edges to create the proper surface.
I have never found Alumahyde to produce a satisfactory finish. Is is intended as a touch up, not a refinishing material. Rattle cans are worthless, like painting you car with a brush and enamel paint.
I just got a Rem 700 in that someone rattle canned the whole gun, all together, and everywhere, with 3 coats of rattle can enamel paint, then clear coated, pardon, if I am aggravated by a dumb but. Gez…..
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I've used Aluma-Hyde II several times over the past 15 years with excellent results each time. I find it durable and easy to maintain. Hoppes #9, CLP, Kroil don't hurt it.
My prep procedure is pretty thorough, however. Lots of cleaning/rinsing, repeat, with Dawn Oxy dish soap and hot water (wearing rubber dish washing gloves). I use a clean plastic bristled brush. I do not touch the metal with bare hands after cleaning. I like to heat the metal with a hand-held hair dryer prior to applying.
This is way beyond what the instructions show for preparation. Its much like the same procedure recommended for using their Oxpho Blue paste. I used Oxpho several times prior to Aluma-Hyde II and had excellent results, so I stuck with the same prep-procedure.
That was a great deal more info than asked, but thought it may be helpful.
Isaac
I've had good results with Aluma Hyde II over the years. The key aspects are surface prep to include thorough degreasing (Dawn dish detergent followed by water rinse then acetone solvent flush) and then several thin coats. Final aspect is to set the coated firearm aside for s couple of weeks at a minimum (longer is better) to allow a full cure.
I've used it with good results, and am happy with the durability over time.
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Deplorable infidel
I’ve had good luck with it as well. My only complaint is that even the brand new cans don’t seem to have a good shelf life. My basement does get pretty cold, so maybe that has something to do with it.
I’ve done a Browning A Bolt II, a Henry .22, and several shotgun barrels.
I’m wondering how well it would work on the cylinder of a revolver because it does have some thickness to it. Would love to hear back if you decide to try it.
I used Gun Scrubber and/or brake cleaner, brush where needed, don’t touch with bare hands, apply warm, and let it dry, the longer the better (several days depending on temp. and humidity) til it’s good and cured.
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I baked the parts of my M37 in the oven per the directions on the can. Worked well and there wasn't any real bad out gassing smell in the kitchen while doing it.
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Deplorable infidel
Originally Posted by Texas by God
One I had, an old M-64 barrel I got a while back from a fellow on ebay who sold parts from firearms destroyed by court order. The other I got from Jack First but it was pretty spendy, $143 by the time it got to my house.
It would probably have been cheaper to track down a 4 inch bbl and replace the extractor rod assy on the cylinder. The guns themselves, while the finish is worn, are pretty tight mechanically. I suspect they were foreign police guns. Mine are both 1990s era production.
Last edited by rintinglen; 03-26-2022 at 10:47 AM.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
I just painted the synthetic stock of my Mossberg 100 .308 with earth brown Aluma-Hyde. I washed the stock in hot water and sprayed all of it down with non-chlorinated brake cleaner, then let it dry overnight. I applied the first coat yesterday. One thing I noticed is that small runs or drips seem to correct themselves by gravity compared with other aerosol finishes I've used. I'm going to let it cure inside for at least a week before I try a second coat. I bought this can of Aluma-Hyde about a year ago and this is the first time I have ever painted anything with it, don't know if that matters or not.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
Did my Remington 1100 turkey gun about 20 years ago and it still looks great. Important to clean, degrease and heat the metal and then I put it by the woodstove for about 2 weeks.
“A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition”
– Rudyard Kipling
Did you paint any plastic parts with it? I have the stock hanging up next to my desk at home to dry. That area gets alot of airflow from the HVAC system so hopefully that will help it cure. It has a few little wrinkles that I'll sand down and touch up after it dries. Aluma-Hyde sprays thicker than any other spray paint I have tried, don't know yet if that is good or bad.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
I have used Alumahyde II for years as a primary finish on AK builds. There are several aspects to be aware of. The coating does add thickness to the parts coated. The parts need to be thoroughly cleaned and degreased. Extra care needs to be taken to prevent running or overcoating. If left to set around the cans have a definite tendency to clog the spray tube and nozzle - get extra clean-out nozzles and use them. Shake the cans well then shake again. Allow LOTS of time for the coating to cure fully - several weeks.
It will fill small pits/imperfections to a degree.
The spray grit works nicely for a variety of uses.
I still use it occasionally but have tended to favor Duracoat and a small detail spray gun. Still need the cleaning aspect but the finish thickness is much thinner and once fully cured it is extremely hard and durable. It's decently cured after a week and fully cured after 4-5 weeks. The finish of the standard Duracoat once cured has an almost lubricated feel to it. Color choices are very wide as well.
I used Aluma Hyde on an AR-15 upper I was going to build up back in 2006 and it's still kicking. It hasn't been mistreated, but it hasn't been babied either. Bottom line is it stays put if the aluminum is prepped right, it doesn't fade, and it is very chip resistant. Paint is no comparison to the toughness. It's much easier to use than DuraCoat and the other air-brush two part paints.
My Straight Shooter Thread: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...gg!&highlight=
Here's a STEN MKIIS that has been coated with Alumahyde II.
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No, I have only used Aluma Hyde on metal. I bought a synthetic camo stock for the turkey gun. For synthetic parts I use plastic adhesive spray from Auto Zone then just Krylon matte spray paint.
“A man can never have too much red wine, too many books, or too much ammunition”
– Rudyard Kipling
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