has anyone come across this bar solder before. there is no 70/30, 60/40 or 50/50 marking on it
just
EAGLE SPECIAL AUTOBODY SOLDER
has anyone come across this bar solder before. there is no 70/30, 60/40 or 50/50 marking on it
just
EAGLE SPECIAL AUTOBODY SOLDER
Eagle is still in business, try contacting them -
https://www.bing.com/search?q=%0D%0A...6B1FD9F1F03547
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
Auto body solder is generally 30/70 or 20/80
I thought auto body solder was 50/50 ?
Melt temp is the best way to determine percentages of Lead/Tin solder is you don't have an XRF gun.
https://www.technic.com/sites/defaul...emperature.pdf
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
yes and yes. I have in my collection both vintage and modern bar solders marketed for autobody repair. I guess for a long time before bondo was invented the standard stuff was 50/50, ive even seen 60/40 tin/lead I would see the stuff come in often at the scrap yard. quite a bit of it has the ratio numbers cast into it but I have some vintage 3/8" square bars that have no markings at all. I'm guessing that that stuff is 50/50. then things changed I guess as the price of tin went higher and higher. a quick google search shows current retailers selling 30/70. this batch of 40 bars of eagle brand I came across the other day doesn't look to be that old as far as oxidation or a lot of crud on it.
I will try calling eagle as I would like to know for sure and dont have access to one of those XRF's
iirc, the square bars were fed into a machine that melted them + sprayed the molten lead onto the damaged body panels that were fluxed + heated slightly - last time i saw that process used had to be in 1960 or 1961 -
never pick a fight with an old man - if he is too old to fight he will just kill you -
in this current crisis our government is not the solution , it is the problem ! -
ILLEGITIMI NON CARBORUNDUM
as they say in latin
I did lead work on cars for a few years in the early 70's. Never saw anything that sprayed. You cleaned and ground the metal and sometimes used a bit of flux but mostly just melted the lead to the body and spread it with wood paddles. The tin on the bar was what gave you the adhesion. Basically you were tinning the metal. I do not remember the lead/tin ratio but pretty sure it was more lead than tin. I still have my lead paddles and shaping tools.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |