I won't give up on Lee 200gr SWC in 1911 - but I'm sure struggling

[Mk42gunner]

UPDATE:...
What do you recommend next? New ‘reputable’ extractor? Firing factory ammo to verify reliability which would point to me reloads as the problem?

It could still be a combination problem of gun and ammo.

Yes and yes. A single box of Winchester white box 230 grain ball should help prove that the gun is working correctly. Also since you don't sound too confident about the extractor, a new one may be indicated.

It doesn't have to be a high dollar custom one either, I seldom saw a GI extractor that flat out wouldn't work.

Robert

[bruce381]

a previously posted picture shows a squared up breech face get kunshousens books and polish out the feed ramp and move it a few thousands toward muzzle and open throat a little.

[PhatForrest]

I always seat them about a fingernail width above the case mouth. No issues with a 1911. Sig P220s don’t like to feed them at all, however.

[nicholst55]

There is a few test some 1911 Meister's came up with, like chambering a round and removing magazine to confirm unsupported extraction. If it passes that leave tension alone!

Although he may not be the only one suggesting this method, Hilton Yam from 10-8 Performance developed a very good extractor test. Load one round into the mag, and chamber it then remove the mag. Fire that round. Repeat 16X. This test demonstrates whether your extractor is properly tensioned and fitted, and it eliminates the magazine as a potential influence on the outcome.

https://modernserviceweapons.com/?p=131

[barsik]

on the second round failures, are you still getting damage to the case mouth and/ or bullet? can you describe how the failures occur and the position of the jammed round? did you try a few different magazines?

ps: I'd try the Hilton Yam extractor test as nicholst55 has suggested just to eliminate that as a possibility.

[gidaeon]

Bruce382 and Barsik,

Today I cut the lower 1/3 of barrel to get 1/32” min. gap. Additionally, I spent many hours trying to learn about extractors and ensured my hook height is .035” (it was over .05 pushing into brass prior) and my Hook to Breach Distance is just over .077” so these are now in spec. Hopefully these will make a difference.

IMG_2755.jpg
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I’m still learning about deflection and how to keep that to recommended amount but this is it for now. By golly I’ll win this yet. Hopefully I didn’t ruin the barrel, but at least it’s a Tisas if so. I at least used 200grit steps with the sanding to 1000 or 1500, but hopefully didn’t overdo anything.
I did touch up the chamber transition and I feel like my previously borderline rounds from plunk test drop easier now.


Will try some ball to confirm it runs and the try some of the reloads that were jamming prior again.

[Ford SD]

Extractor tuning .... From a expert ... Bill Wilson

Yes from wilson combat

https://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm

Print and save as web page complete ( you get the pictures then)

[gidaeon]

Extractor tuning .... From a expert ... Bill Wilson

Yes from wilson combat

https://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm

Print and save as web page complete ( you get the pictures then)

That’s a good one I found a saved. On 1911forum there’s also a very long detailed sticky that I think compiles lots of info and pictures from the popular as books mentioned.

[gidaeon]

So I made things worse apparently based on slide drop tests - I abandoned range testing - and am regretting 1/32” cutting the slide or least my blending. At least it’s a $60 barrel on a Turkish clone.

Now 230gr ball, factory 185 jhp, and my reload (blue PC) all get brass dents in the same spot highlighted. I believe the dent is from the chamber entrance as I marked the stuck brass on the top and dent is exact opposite. I read that my .035” offset barrel is likely ‘too far’ and cartridge dips?

IMG_2764.jpg

Did I botch the barrel ramp? Is there an obvious wrong contour?
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