Wad Stack for Black Powder PPB

[1885_Highwall]

I see a lot of people posting that they use a veggie wad (compress) and then follow with an LDPE wad and finally a felt wad. Is this a fairly well proven combination? And are there any theories as to why this works so well? On a related note, have grease cookies fallen out of favor?

[Chill Wills]

Unless you are taking up room on a really long brass case, I am not sure you would need that. On regular cases like 45-70, 38-55 40-60 Maynard, 40-65 or 40-70 Sharps, Just the normal 0.060" or so (0.030", 0.090") wads work well and hold all the shooting records for accuracy. There is always the exception to solve a special problem but ..... try the regular way first.

[country gent]

I normally run a .060 rubber fiber gasket wad to compress with then 2 typing paper wads. on some loads there is a grease cookie between the rubber fiber and the typing paper.

Watch the paper patch and make sure its coming off at the muzzle not hanging on. You should see the first wrap come of in confetti then the second wrap and base intact some light color but not burnt or destryed.

[Don McDowell]

Depends a lot on the bullet, case length and powder charge. With parrallell sided bullets wrapped to bore I use a thin wad punched from the NAPA rubber cork and a dry lubed felt wad from Muzzleloader originals.
Dual diameter bullets I'm finding just a single thick wad works reasonably well.
Grease cookies usually only find their way into hunting loads. I only know of 1 person that uses a grease cooky in match loads, but that is in a tight chambered 45-110.

[Lead pot]

The only time I load more the a .04" or .06" fiber wad is for a hunting load then I use a 1/8" lube wad with a PP slightly patched under bore diameter so I can load in a fouled chamber. Accuracy is still good for that use.
Some shooters with the large calibers use an exotic wad stack but I think they use them to reduce the recoil and this is fine. Accurate loads can be worked up doing this also.
High wall, the best thing for you is load rounds with what ever wad stack and put holes through paper till you find what works best for you.
There is no short cut. What works for one of us might not work for you. And even when I find a super fine load might not shoot as well the next day I shoot.
Time behind the buttplate is a plus learning the rifle and what works.
Kurt

[Don McDowell]

There are a ton of ways to skin a cat with wad stacks and paper patch.Paper weight , bullet diameter, length and alloy all play a big part as well But in the end it boils down to what your rifle and the target tell you.
None of them will work worth a flip unless you are using a very good fouling control.

[Brimstone]

Isn't that Kenny's preferred wad stack?

[Don McDowell]

Kenny does use a pile of stuff in his 110

[Gunlaker]

For the smaller cases, a stack of wads will not let the bullet bump up. The 45-90 is the smallest case I've had Kenny's wad stack work in. It is good in the 45-100 & 45-110 cases.

For cases that hold less powder, a single 0.060" LDPE is going to give you good results. The paper on the ground will tell you a fair bit about how your wad(s) are working.

For small cases like the 38-55, even less wad is better. I use 0.030" LDPE there.

Chris.

[Gobeyond]

It sounds like you are not using a lube cookie, but cjeaning after every shot. I’m trying a lube cookie next. Have them loaded. It would be nice to have some bullet lube if not fouling softener also. But you make it sound not necessary. Interesting. More room for powder. A good fouling clean up………. Trial one coming soon.

[45-110]

DD pp bullets are less prone to gas cutting than the wrapped bore diameter choice with wrong wad(s). Alloy plays a role here also. Recovered bullets can tell you alot. I shoot DD in 3 calibers, one .06" wad in the .45-50 cal. and one .03" in the 40's.

[JosieGun]

For my .45-70s I fill up the fire formed case to its rim with weighed Swiss 1-1/2F, push in a 060" LDPE wad, compress down .1", place in the loose PPB, then a light taper crimp to just keep the PPB from falling out yet it can be removed and replaced back in the brass.