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Thread: Ruger SP 101 Instructions

  1. #1
    Boolit Master Hi-Speed's Avatar
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    Ruger SP 101 Instructions

    I had purchased a Ruger SP 101 stainless 2.25” revolver. Its instructions state the following when shooting cast bullets:

    “If lead bullet loads are fired extensively, lead build-up may cause cylinder
    binding. Lubricate the cylinder crane gap with Break-Free® CLP or some other
    lubrication which meets mil. spec. Mil-1-63460 to prevent this condition.”

    Is it best to disassemble the SP 101 (which is fairly straightforward) remove cylinder, crane assembly, and then apply the CLP on the crane rod where the cylinder pivots ?

    Appreciate your help.
    “Start Low, Work Up Slow”

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    Boolit Master Hi-Speed's Avatar
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    Issued in error
    Last edited by Hi-Speed; 08-31-2025 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Issued in error, included in initial post
    “Start Low, Work Up Slow”

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    LUCKYDAWG13's Avatar
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    When my sp101 was new the cylinder would bind after 100 rounds of anything that I shot. I disassembled and cleaned everything. Also replaced springs with wolf springs kit has a wonderful trigger and no more binding
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

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    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    It is not necessary to disassemble the gun before lubricating. Also, it is a good idea to lubricate this area often, as the crane takes quite a beating. Oil slightly cushions the blows and helps remove combustion byproducts. This is independent of the choice of lead or jacketed bullets, BTW.

    When shooting cast bullets, revolvers build up lead on the frame around the barrel breech. Lead buildup will eventually reach a level at which it interferes with cylinder rotation. It is easy to remove with a sharp pocket knife. Don't touch the face of the breech or the cylinder face with any tool; only work on lead that is attached to the frame of the gun.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Hi-Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tatume View Post
    It is not necessary to disassemble the gun before lubricating. Also, it is a good idea to lubricate this area often, as the crane takes quite a beating. Oil slightly cushions the blows and helps remove combustion byproducts. This is independent of the choice of lead or jacketed bullets, BTW.

    When shooting cast bullets, revolvers build up lead on the frame around the barrel breech. Lead buildup will eventually reach a level at which it interferes with cylinder rotation. It is easy to remove with a sharp pocket knife. Don't touch the face of the breech or the cylinder face with any tool; only work on lead that is attached to the frame of the gun.
    Thank you Tatume and Dawg

    No build up of lead observed…the cylinder binds when out of the frame. I’ll add a drop of ATF (Ed’s suggestion) in crane/cylinder gap and see how it goes this morning with some cast loads (38 Spl 4.0 grs W231, 168 gr 358429 Lyman 2 metal).

    Appreciate all the kindness over the years…this old man appreciates it here.
    “Start Low, Work Up Slow”

  6. #6
    Boolit Master Hi-Speed's Avatar
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    My trusty Ballistol remedied the SP101 cylinder binding fully…Mil Spec CLP doesn’t work…the Ballistol is the way to go. I’ve tried everything including ATF, EWG grease, Bearkfree, G96 CLP, Slip 2000, etc, nothing worked as well as Ballistol to eliminate the binding.

    This morning:
    50 rounds - 158 gr/6.5 grs Unqiue 357 Magnum (“Larry Gibson Load”)
    25 rounds - HSM 148 gr DEWC 38 Spl
    25 rounds - Federal 38G 38 Spl +P 158 gr LSWCHP

    Cyclinder spun without binding…
    “Start Low, Work Up Slow”

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

    LUCKYDAWG13's Avatar
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    I forgot too add that I found some metal shavings in the hole that the crane fits into. I use a drill bit by hand. To deber it
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

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    Boolit Master
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    I pretend I'm shooting black powder and put a fingertip of gun grease on the shaft running thru the cylinder. Keeps the crud from cast bullets softer and easier to wipe off.
    Loren

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I have become very much a fan of Red and Tacky Grease. Big and little M1 stuff, bolt lugs and shroud threads, all inside what you cannot see on my my revolvers and especially all internals and surfaces on my percussion revolvers.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master trapper9260's Avatar
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    I do not have that problem . I just keep everything lubes with gun oil and have work for me . Yes I had work done on it for the springs and polished up. to make it easier for me to shoot it double action . for how my hand is . it works for me so far . just to give what works for me.
    Life Member of NRA,NTA,DAV ,ITA. Also member of FTA,CBA

  11. #11
    Boolit Master Hi-Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockshooter View Post
    I pretend I'm shooting black powder and put a fingertip of gun grease on the shaft running thru the cylinder. Keeps the crud from cast bullets softer and easier to wipe off.
    Loren
    I’m looking at that Militec TW25 grease (if I got it right)…may get some but heck it’s expensive
    “Start Low, Work Up Slow”

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    "lead build-up may cause cylinder binding."

    Key word in the instructions is "may".
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check