20 cal swaging questions

[dimaprok]

Anybody swages 20 cal bullets from 22LR cases? Missed out a set of RCE dies on eBay because I confused the $CAD currency and they sold for less then my intended max in USD.

I've been interested in Vartarg and 20 practical.

I was wondering if using 22LR cases would work well? I already swage 22 cal bullets from it and get great results but you know how it is, there is always a something new to try so I was thinking it wouldn't be hard to draw the jackets to 20 cal size but what length and weight would I end up with? Would I need to trim the jackets?

Lets say I end up with 40gr bullets (I recall BTsniper post mention something similar), would 1:11 twist be sufficient?

[DsGrouse]

Heh, I thought about bidding on those.

I wonder if drawing down the 22lr case would thin it out to much for the velocity you'd achieve with .20 cql rifles

[rolltide999]

The one good thing about using 22's for jackets is that you can always use 22 shorts if the 22LR are too long. That said, I know nothing about 20 cal. swaging or shooting. Richard Corbin sent me a 12 caliber jacketed bullet he made. I was quite something to see a jacketed bullet that small. I have no idea what he used for jackets.

You might even get away with using the 22 blanks that they use in ramset tools. Probably cheaper option, but I don't really know. Just an idea.

[hoodat]

I'm a twenty cal fan, and the general belief is that 11 twist barrels will stabilize 40's. My barrel is a 1/11, but I simply haven't gotten around to trying them yet - 32's are so good and I've got bunches of them.
My rifle is a 20-222, and I keep velocity around the 3800 area although there is room to increase. My bullet selection has been almost entirely v-Max's, which are pretty durned economical.

I'm interested in what you're considering. jd

[MUSTANG]

Heh, I thought about bidding on those.

I wonder if drawing down the 22lr case would thin it out to much for the velocity you'd achieve with .20 cql rifles

The gap between the punch and the draw die walls will determine if the thickness is reduced. The 22LR brass casing will have the rim ironed out; and as the draw die reduces the diameter of the brass jacket; it will push the brass towards the mouth - elongating the brass tube/jacket. I would make .224 jackets from the 22LR brass; then use a reducer/draw die that reduces the diameter of the jacket to ~.20 as appropriate.

Depending on bullet weight and style; one might have to use a jacket trim die similar to ones found at Corbins web site https://www.corbins.com/shop/s-press...attr=1442,1441

Of course a set of ~ swaging dies for making the ~ .20 bullets will also be required.

[dimaprok]

The one good thing about using 22's for jackets is that you can always use 22 shorts if the 22LR are too long. That said, I know nothing about 20 cal. swaging or shooting. Richard Corbin sent me a 12 caliber jacketed bullet he made. I was quite something to see a jacketed bullet that small. I have no idea what he used for jackets.

You might even get away with using the 22 blanks that they use in ramset tools. Probably cheaper option, but I don't really know. Just an idea.

I don't find many shorts, I got 91 pcs right now and last time I made about 150x 40gr bullets for 22 cal and they shot alright in 221fb but feeding is horrible.

[dimaprok]

I'm a twenty cal fan, and the general belief is that 11 twist barrels will stabilize 40's. My barrel is a 1/11, but I simply haven't gotten around to trying them yet - 32's are so good and I've got bunches of them.
My rifle is a 20-222, and I keep velocity around the 3800 area although there is room to increase. My bullet selection has been almost entirely v-Max's, which are pretty durned economical.

I'm interested in what you're considering. jd

Midwayusa doesn't even carry 20 cal projectiles! I checked. Where do you buy them even?

[dimaprok]

The gap between the punch and the draw die walls will determine if the thickness is reduced. The 22LR brass casing will have the rim ironed out; and as the draw die reduces the diameter of the brass jacket; it will push the brass towards the mouth - elongating the brass tube/jacket. I would make .224 jackets from the 22LR brass; then use a reducer/draw die that reduces the diameter of the jacket to ~.20 as appropriate.

Depending on bullet weight and style; one might have to use a jacket trim die similar to ones found at Corbins web site https://www.corbins.com/shop/s-press...attr=1442,1441

Of course a set of ~ swaging dies for making the ~ .20 bullets will also be required.

Correct. I've been playing with drawing 9mm cases down to make 357 jackets and depending on the diameter of punch it can stretch the case quite a bit.

So, have you tried making a bullet using the whole untrimmed jacket length? What length and weight did you end up with?

[deltaenterprizes]

The gap between the punch and the draw die walls will determine if the thickness is reduced. The 22LR brass casing will have the rim ironed out; and as the draw die reduces the diameter of the brass jacket; it will push the brass towards the mouth - elongating the brass tube/jacket. I would make .224 jackets from the 22LR brass; then use a reducer/draw die that reduces the diameter of the jacket to ~.20 as appropriate.

Depending on bullet weight and style; one might have to use a jacket trim die similar to ones found at Corbins web site https://www.corbins.com/shop/s-press...attr=1442,1441

Of course a set of ~ swaging dies for making the ~ .20 bullets will also be required.

I made a trim die like that and it worked well!

[reed1911]

To answer your question, as long as you keep the velocity down below 3000 or so the .22LR brass should hold together. Note I said should. I've done it in my little .20's (.20 Squirrel) accuracy was so-so and it was just on a whim, I only made 20 or 30 of them.

[dimaprok]

To answer your question, as long as you keep the velocity down below 3000 or so the .22LR brass should hold together. Note I said should. I've done it in my little .20's (.20 Squirrel) accuracy was so-so and it was just on a whim, I only made 20 or 30 of them.

It has to do more with twist rate rather than velocity. I've shot 3200+ fps without them coming apart in .223 (AR15 20" barrel). But I also had a certain load that did come apart, but not in my Rem. 700 1:12 slower twist bolt action. It kind of defeats the purpose of 20 cal if you can't shoot it very fast. My most accurate 22 cal swage is my 221 fireball with 1:14 twist.

[reed1911]

It has to do more with twist rate rather than velocity. I've shot 3200+ fps without them coming apart in .223 (AR15 20" barrel). But I also had a certain load that did come apart, but not in my Rem. 700 1:12 slower twist bolt action. It kind of defeats the purpose of 20 cal if you can't shoot it very fast. My most accurate 22 cal swage is my 221 fireball with 1:14 twist.

Absolutely correct! It is based on the RPM of the bullet 100%.

There is a use for the smaller calibers in slower velocities; shooting is more population dense areas. You have less 'range' on the bullet in the event of a miss, ricochet, etc As well as report. Doing wildlife removal in the middle of a Walmart (closed due to with a .17LR on a rabid raccoon is much more comfortable than using a .22LR. Yeah I know that is a very special situation, but the same goes for shooting squirrel around farms where you are concerned about hitting other houses or equipment. With all that being said....Yup, if you are running a .20 or .17 or .14 you really want to be as close to or in excess of 4000FPS

[elk hunter]

At one time I considered making .17 caliber bullets from annealed copper wire. Didn't ever get around to doing that but I believe it would work. It should work for .20 caliber too.

Just a thought for what it's worth.

[reed1911]

You would need to use a lathe, mill or Swiss machine/CNC etc. You could not use a hand style press.

[BT Sniper]

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ass&highlight=

Link above to everything I was able to achieve with 20 cal bullets made from 22lr brass!

I was able to make 41 grain bullets that shot under 1/2" at 200 yrds! Pics are in link above. Very capable and accurate bullet!

Good Shooting and swage on!

BT

[reed1911]

Oh yeah. .40's and 9's for .44,.40,.375,.35 cal.

And a plug, you cannot beat the quality of BT's dies. I have a lot of dies from .12 cal to .510cal, some of corbins (Both brothers), some carbide, Detsch, Nemi, Ulrich and others. I compare BT's dies to the carbide. At 1/4 of the price you just can't beat them. They are not cheap, but when it comes to swaging you get what you pay for. (period)

Don't get me wrong, I don't consider the other makers do not make a great product, I still buy from the other companies too.