Roll tide, thanks. I'll use much less lube and drop the weight on my cores.
Roll tide, thanks. I'll use much less lube and drop the weight on my cores.
Just curious, are the jackets pliable? Have they been annealed?
I have also never annealed commercial jackets either, and never had a problem with them, even the thicker ones. I always anneal spent cases though, just like DsGrouse.
No, you do not need to anneal jackets, commercial jackets. Cartridge brass yes, you have to anneal to use effectively ~800-850 is best for handgun cases (low dull red) some .223 needs 900 (red glow but not cherry red). .22 LR and .22 WMR I've used with and without annealing and it just depends on the brand and what speed I'm going to be running them. I have found that it is best to de-rim before annealing. When I anneal those I go much lower on temp ~650-700 (just where you get the blue hue across the whole case like when you do to soften cartridge necks). Go any higher than that and you will blow them up at speed.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |