Making Sparkplugs: My first 100 primers

[Cane_man]

If you individually process your NC and glass appropriately, simple mixing will work fine. That is how I do my EPH-20.

Getting NC to a good mesh size is one of the details where there has not really been a convergence on what are the "best methods".

Thank you! Makes it easier for sure. I'm going to get a cheap coffee grinder with some W231 and see how that goes.

If I make some Aluminum fines will they store long term, or do they oxidize over time rendering them not usable?

[Dieselhorses]

Thank you! Makes it easier for sure. I'm going to get a cheap coffee grinder with some W231 and see how that goes.

If I make some Aluminum fines will they store long term, or do they oxidize over time rendering them not usable?

Keep fines in air tight container and should be fine. I’ve used fines a year old and works good.


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[2TM101]

I'm surprised there is no source for new caps & anvils (with no chemicals) to do this with. For percussion caps I make them myself, but there is no anvil involved and as they fit over, not in, the tolerances are way looser than they are for centerfire primers. In short, I would make primers from new components, but reloading used ones seems to be too much work, at least for me.

[JBMeier]

Is this thread dead? Thought I might join in.....having some great success with FA-70 WW2 era binary primers and an updated 1998 version of SINOXID/EPNO

[MUSTANG]

please elaborate on your experience with "updated 1998 version of SINOXID/EPNO".

[JBMeier]

https://patents.google.com/patent/WO1995015298A1/en

This is essentially the recipe I'm using, with a couple tweeks. I prefer barium or strontium nitrate to replace or blend with KNO3 as oxidizer; I use finely ground boro-silicate glass in lieu of calcium silicide. There is a precipitation technique for producing nitrocellulose fines for the fuel, a double base powder works well for this part. I've found that shellac make a good hard pellet but also diminishes sensitivity , I'm using a drop weight tester and this is helpful for determining what the effect of various binders have. Currently I prefer to dry load this
mix, compress slightly to get 35-40% of the primer cup filled, then seal the charge with a paper disc tabbed with smokeless powder lacquer. I've worked on this now for about four years, loaded all primers except .22 cases, it works all around. Ive fired 520 rounds with this mix and loading technique over the last year, 100% .Currently costs $3.85 per K SP/SR, $5.60 per K for LP/LR. I've also found that anvil can be seated quite readily just by placing them on top of a live primer, leveling it and making sure it's concentric then just case prime as you normally would. This centers and inserts the anvil at the necessary distance as the cup is seated flush.

[JustPractical]

A lot of work, but props on your dedication.