Help me pick a suppressor please

[Barry54]

Griffin Armament Optimus. 22lr up to 338 magnums. Removable baffles for maintenance and can be configured in multiple ways. Mine came with muzzle device to attach to 5/8-24 barrel. Ruger American 7.62x39 with subsonic Prvi Partesan gives you a “click-whack” sound signature. Oh yeah, there’s also a chuckle that’s difficult to stifle.

Mounted on 10/22 with CCI standard velocity is about as quiet as you could want. Action function is about all you hear.

I saw the Optimus 9 full size on their website. Rated for 300 wm 24” barrel or longer. 14.5” 308 Winchester.

Stainless steel. Didn’t see anything exotic.

22 and 9mm end caps included.

It’s checking lots of boxes on my wishlist!

[JimB..]

If you get a sealed unit you need to be very careful of what you shoot through it.
A lot of jacketed bullets have exposed lead on the bases.
Some of it becomes vaporized when shot and much of that vapor condenses on the baffles.
No amount of soaking will remove it and needs to be scraped off, kind of hard to do with a sealed unit.
If you buy a sealed unit, I suggest weighing it before you ever shoot through it.
It will give you a good indication on how well your cleaning was.

I believe this, honestly I do, but if you take a piece of paper and glue it to the base of a bullet, then fire the bullet, the paper will invariably remain unburned. Paper burns at 451F while lead vaporizes at around 750F, at atmospheric pressure. At even 5 atm of pressure (74psi) paper still burns at 451F but lead won’t vaporize until 3,000F. I can’t see how lead is vaporizing from the base of a FMJ bullet, but I have no idea where it does come from. I’ve thought about powder coating a bunch of them to see if I get lead in the can.

From lead bullets I think it’s splatter rather than vapor deposits, but that I also don’t know.

What I do know is the best way to dispose of used dip is to put it in an open container in the sun and let it evaporate. The metal salts will precipitate out, they don’t evaporate, and then you put the crusty container into metal recycling or landfill trash whichever you have.

I’ve thought about using a small submersible pump, like a saltwater aquarium pump, to create a washer for a sealed can. Just keep running the dip through with as much pressure as the little pump will put out. Also thought about filling a can with dip and inserting an ultrasonic cleaning probe in the center of it.

I agree, weigh when new. Some companies used to rebuild for you once the weight got past something, I don’t remember the details.

[czgunner]

I purchase a rebel suppressor a few years back, had a baffel strike, rebel suppressor went under. I now have a 600 + paper weight, that I waited 9 months for. In my opinion you are not only purchasing a suppressor as much as the manufacturer of the suppressor. My greatest concern when I purchase a suppressor is will the company be around to repair it if needed, and their reputation for repairing a suppressor. I would want a company that has a its broke we will fix it warranty.

Reach out to Eco Machine. They do re-cores and repairs.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[czgunner]

I have YHM and really like their stuff. Recently got an OCL Polo 30 and its also great. I'd recommended stainless. While heavy, it will be impervious to media blasting to remove lead built up.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[MrWolf]

Following. I am on the same journey.

Was going to order one this week but still mulling over options.

Same boat but with the new administration am hoping silencers will no longer be taboo and come off the NFA list so no stamps. I can wait and see.

[Barry54]

They had a two year window to get it done on the last go-around. I don’t have high expectations the uni-party plus one will accomplish a lot this time around either. Too worried about their bank accounts and getting re-elected.

[elmacgyver0]

I believe this, honestly I do, but if you take a piece of paper and glue it to the base of a bullet, then fire the bullet, the paper will invariably remain unburned. Paper burns at 451F while lead vaporizes at around 750F, at atmospheric pressure. At even 5 atm of pressure (74psi) paper still burns at 451F but lead won’t vaporize until 3,000F. I can’t see how lead is vaporizing from the base of a FMJ bullet, but I have no idea where it does come from. I’ve thought about powder coating a bunch of them to see if I get lead in the can.

From lead bullets I think it’s splatter rather than vapor deposits, but that I also don’t know.

What I do know is the best way to dispose of used dip is to put it in an open container in the sun and let it evaporate. The metal salts will precipitate out, they don’t evaporate, and then you put the crusty container into metal recycling or landfill trash whichever you have.

I’ve thought about using a small submersible pump, like a saltwater aquarium pump, to create a washer for a sealed can. Just keep running the dip through with as much pressure as the little pump will put out. Also thought about filling a can with dip and inserting an ultrasonic cleaning probe in the center of it.

I agree, weigh when new. Some companies used to rebuild for you once the weight got past something, I don’t remember the details.

I don't know what the hell to tell you on this.
I quit shooting my reloads through my Banish 45 and went to a steady diet of factory FMJ figuring on no leading.
I shot quit a few boxes, both 9mm and 45acp, didn't think I needed to do much cleaning.
When I finally took it apart it had lead condensed on the baffles, a lot of it.
Let the baffles set in Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner which works very well on carbon but not so much on lead.
I ran the baffles through my ultrasonic cleaner, I am now a believer about ultrasonics and aluminum.
I didn't ruin my baffles but did get some pits here and there. Never do that again.

Exactly how do I get splatter from Full metal jacketed bullets?
This is lead that has vaporized and condensed on the baffles.

If you care to take a trip, I will let you shoot my guns or yours if they have threaded barrels through my suppressor (Disassembled and checked to be lead free first of course).
Hell, I'll even buy the ammo.
Maybe I need to pull all the bullets and glue paper to them.

I might actually try this on some that I reload using FMJ bullets with exposed bases that I have.

[steve urquell]

I believe this, honestly I do, but if you take a piece of paper and glue it to the base of a bullet, then fire the bullet, the paper will invariably remain unburned. Paper burns at 451F while lead vaporizes at around 750F, at atmospheric pressure. At even 5 atm of pressure (74psi) paper still burns at 451F but lead won’t vaporize until 3,000F. I can’t see how lead is vaporizing from the base of a FMJ bullet, but I have no idea where it does come from. I’ve thought about powder coating a bunch of them to see if I get lead in the can.

From lead bullets I think it’s splatter rather than vapor deposits, but that I also don’t know.

What I do know is the best way to dispose of used dip is to put it in an open container in the sun and let it evaporate. The metal salts will precipitate out, they don’t evaporate, and then you put the crusty container into metal recycling or landfill trash whichever you have.

I’ve thought about using a small submersible pump, like a saltwater aquarium pump, to create a washer for a sealed can. Just keep running the dip through with as much pressure as the little pump will put out. Also thought about filling a can with dip and inserting an ultrasonic cleaning probe in the center of it.

I agree, weigh when new. Some companies used to rebuild for you once the weight got past something, I don’t remember the details.

I don't know what the hell to tell you on this.
I quit shooting my reloads through my Banish 45 and went to a steady diet of factory FMJ figuring on no leading.
I shot quit a few boxes, both 9mm and 45acp, didn't think I needed to do much cleaning.
When I finally took it apart it had lead condensed on the baffles, a lot of it.
Let the baffles set in Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner which works very well on carbon but not so much on lead.
I ran the baffles through my ultrasonic cleaner, I am now a believer about ultrasonics and aluminum.
I didn't ruin my baffles but did get some pits here and there. Never do that again.

Exactly how do I get splatter from Full metal jacketed bullets?
This is lead that has vaporized and condensed on the baffles.

If you care to take a trip, I will let you shoot my guns or yours if they have threaded barrels through my suppressor (Disassembled and checked to be lead free first of course).
Hell, I'll even buy the ammo.
Maybe I need to pull all the bullets and glue paper to them.

I might actually try this on some that I reload using FMJ bullets with exposed bases that I have.

I didn't want to hijack this thread so I replied in my suppressor cleaning thread. It would be more appropriate to continue this there to keep Barry's thread from becoming sidetracked.

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...67#post5809067

[JimB..]

I don't know what the hell to tell you on this.
I quit shooting my reloads through my Banish 45 and went to a steady diet of factory FMJ figuring on no leading.
I shot quit a few boxes, both 9mm and 45acp, didn't think I needed to do much cleaning.
When I finally took it apart it had lead condensed on the baffles, a lot of it.
Let the baffles set in Breakthrough Suppressor Cleaner which works very well on carbon but not so much on lead.
I ran the baffles through my ultrasonic cleaner, I am now a believer about ultrasonics and aluminum.
I didn't ruin my baffles but did get some pits here and there. Never do that again.

Exactly how do I get splatter from Full metal jacketed bullets?
This is lead that has vaporized and condensed on the baffles.

If you care to take a trip, I will let you shoot my guns or yours if they have threaded barrels through my suppressor (Disassembled and checked to be lead free first of course).
Hell, I'll even buy the ammo.
Maybe I need to pull all the bullets and glue paper to them.

I might actually try this on some that I reload using FMJ bullets with exposed bases that I have.

I’m going to jump over to the other thread, but I’m not disagreeing with you. The fouling is coming from somewhere, and the only exposed lead is the base, but the math doesn’t work. Maybe I’ll paint some bullet bases with templac and then recover them.

[mcdaniel.mac]

I believe this, honestly I do, but if you take a piece of paper and glue it to the base of a bullet, then fire the bullet, the paper will invariably remain unburned. Paper burns at 451F while lead vaporizes at around 750F, at atmospheric pressure. At even 5 atm of pressure (74psi) paper still burns at 451F but lead won’t vaporize until 3,000F. I can’t see how lead is vaporizing from the base of a FMJ bullet, but I have no idea where it does come from. I’ve thought about powder coating a bunch of them to see if I get lead in the can.

From lead bullets I think it’s splatter rather than vapor deposits, but that I also don’t know.

What I do know is the best way to dispose of used dip is to put it in an open container in the sun and let it evaporate. The metal salts will precipitate out, they don’t evaporate, and then you put the crusty container into metal recycling or landfill trash whichever you have.

I’ve thought about using a small submersible pump, like a saltwater aquarium pump, to create a washer for a sealed can. Just keep running the dip through with as much pressure as the little pump will put out. Also thought about filling a can with dip and inserting an ultrasonic cleaning probe in the center of it.

I agree, weigh when new. Some companies used to rebuild for you once the weight got past something, I don’t remember the details.

Remember that burning powder isn’t just heating the lead, it’s blasting the surface with expanding gas and burning powder, creating a mix if lead dust, copper fouling or powder coat from your bore, and then that dust is getting thrown into your baffles and around the body under high heat. It’s all-in-one sandblasting and powder coating. Rimfire is the worst with the wax on the bullets. .22 silencers will double in weight, thats why almost all of them are user-serviceable.

Lube, soft lead, and gas checks are always verboten in silencers because of the risk of something getting caught on the way through. It doesn’t take much to destabilize a bullet inside that body, and it only has to wing a baffle a little bit to throw everything out of whack. PC lead is less bad, but some of it is still getting ablated and deposited. Even a strict diet of “clean” burning loads with TMJ bullets will still end up caking stuff on the baffles. I had an old 9mm can that only ate 147gr TMJ bullets and there was still 4-5oz of gunk in it after 20 years.

If you ever have the misfortune of cleaning the belt-feds after a particularly high round count day, you’ll be familiar with the hard, shiny carbon residue you get from shooting M80 ball with its exposed lead base. Takes a pic to bust it loose. The Dip works, but it is absolutely not safe for lead and you absolutely need good ventilation, googles, gloves, and a splash apron. A face shield isn’t a terrible idea. The resulting lead acetate is absorbable through skin and tough for your body to shake loose. Once you’ve soaked and rinsed, and rinsed everything that’s touched The Dip into a container, you can add sulphuric acid (from your pool store) to precipitate the lead back out of the solution into a form that isn’t absorbed so easily. Pour off the liquid, drop the lead (II) sulphate at your local hazmat center.

If you do find a user aerviceable can you like, soda blasting and a CLP brush can do most of the work. If you can scrub the baffles or blast them, you can get enough gunk out to keep things peachy until its time for a recore.

On re-coring, any silencer maker theoretically can. Ecco Machine is well recommended for a reason. Stalking Rhino used to offer recores, but got backed up pretty bad a couple years ago.

[M-Tecs]

I am looking for the same as the OP. He has one of these https://silencerco.com/silencers/hybrid-46/ He really likes it and recommended it to me.

[mcdaniel.mac]

I have two Hybrids. A good all arounder, not great on a pistol but a good size for a SBR single shot or on a Henry .45-70. The new model is modular so you can run it shorter or quieter. Grab a set of those fireproof gloves, I think Blu Flame is the brand? It’s not perfect but it’s enough heat protection to take the can off.

For the Hybrid and similar, they utilize the HUB 1.375x24 common thread system. That allows tou to swap the endcaps on both the muzzle and exit sides. You can order lighter titanium caps, get the Anchor brake endcap to tame recoil. It also means you can use the regular 5/8x24 direct thread adaptor; it’s as true as is common that a direct thread generally exhibits less POI shift and more repeatability in POI shift assuming the rest if the components are in order. It’s lighter and less fuss, but be aware that under recoil and heat/cool cycles a silencer can walk off slowly. Do not attenpt to use a crush washer to mount a silencer - if you wan it on to stay for good you can rocksett or even weld the adaptor on. JMAC also makes a muzzle brake that threads directly into the silencer body rather than into an adaptor, sort of eliminating one piece if tbe equation and still giving you a useable muzzle brake or flash hider. There’s also the silencerco Bravo ASR mounts (meh), the Q (and clones like Rearden) and Sig taper lock brakes and adapters like the cherry bomb and liberty bell, the Dead Air mount system, the Area 419 timed mount system, I’m going to deflate if I keep going. Direct thread is fine, use Rocksett to mount the DT into the silencer itself. If you want a quick mount, I would go Dead Air (there are third party big-bore mounts like JMAC customs) or the Q adaptors. Same rule applies, rocksett the adaptor into the silencer and the mount onto the barrel. You don’t need to rocksett the endcap at the exit, just check periodically to make sure it’s not walking. You can swap the endcaps and get a better tone (IMO) by matching the endcap the round - a .30 cal for .308 and .300blk, a .223 cal for 5.56.

Even with the knowledge of cleaning you have obtained here, do not shoot rimfire or corrosive ammo through your whisper pickle. Not worth the hassle and the headache.

[Dantiff2]

I am looking for the same as the OP. He has one of these https://silencerco.com/silencers/hybrid-46/ He really likes it and recommended it to me.

Silencer central banish 46 v2 is same size as hybrid 46 but is user serviceable

[M-Tecs]

Silencer central banish 46 v2 is same size as hybrid 46 but is user serviceable

Thanks, I was under the misunderstanding that it was user serviceable. User serviceable is a must for me.

[Dantiff2]

Thanks, I was under the misunderstanding that it was user serviceable. User serviceable is a must for me.

Hybrid 46 is not, I sure wish it was…

[steve urquell]

The Griffin Bushwhacker 46 is a SS baffled, universal HUB mount, user servicable suppressor worth taking a look at.

[Rapier]

Come on, if you can do basic plumbing you can build your own suppressor. Just file a Form 1 as the owner and builder on your chosen entity, best be a Corp, LLC or Trust so it can be transferred upon demise. Get photos and fingerprints signature of chief LEO and buy the parts on line then once you get the documents, stamps, you have the tube engraved, baffels drilled, end caps drilled and then assemble. A titanium tube is easy to anodize.

This is my Form I titanium tube can and I shoot PC hard cast in it, from an AR, all of the time, with no leading at all. So get yourself a new story.

[Rapier]

Here are my double coated PC cast 300 BO and 358 MGP rounds I shoot. The 358s are 200 grain RCBS plain base and the 300s are the 230 grain Lee plain base.

[JimB..]

“ Once you’ve soaked and rinsed, and rinsed everything that’s touched The Dip into a container, you can add sulphuric acid (from your pool store) to precipitate the lead back out of the solution into a form that isn’t absorbed so easily. Pour off the liquid, drop the lead (II) sulphate at your local hazmat center.”
@mcdaniel.mac the reason I don’t recommend this for disposal is that I don’t know if the antimony, arsenic, mercury and other fun stuff will all precipitate out.

[elmacgyver0]

The Griffin Bushwhacker 46 is a SS baffled, universal HUB mount, user servicable suppressor worth taking a look at.

This and the Banish 46 are great options if you want a serviceable suppressor. I'm sure there are also more option out there. Non-serviceable suppressors are old school, much better options are available now. Nothing wrong with the Hybrid 46, but it is non-serviceable, I was first looking at them, but they were out of stock, then the Banish 46 came out, now more and more manufacturers have serviceable units. Titanium cleans up nice too.