Help me pick a suppressor please

[Barry54]

I’ve got a list of features that seem desirable. But as the Statler Brothers said, “You can’t have your Kate and my Edith too”

1) user serviceable
2) accuracy least affected
3) effective
4) durable
5) ?

1) So we are on a forum for shooting cast. So it has to be user serviceable. Could ALL the internal surfaces be smeared with never-seize? Would that even help?

2) Direct thread vs flash hider mount? Owner of a shop with a large inventory told me direct thread models generally affect accuracy less.

I’d like to make a 15” 308 Encore barrel a legal rifle barrel by having a flash hider pinned and welded. It would be a handy size with a big honking suppressor hanging off the front. Are there any models that have different end caps and could be used both ways? $100+ apiece for suppressor mounts will add up quickly!

3) I’m an extremist. I want quiet. I’ll disable semi-auto function if gas in the face is too annoying.

4) Durable. Is it rated for 300 win mag? Ultra mag? Expensive exotic lightweight models don’t appeal to me. I’ll take a gal that can pull a wagon before putting up with a supermodel.

5) Multi caliber? Probably ruins the maximum sound reduction for everything smaller than the largest caliber. 9mm is cheap to plink with, so there’s the temptation to get one that will fit both. 458 socom can be loaded subsonic. Is it worthwhile to get a 46 caliber one size fits most plan?

Let’s hear it. Commence shredding me!

[Dantiff2]

Silencer Central Banish 46 V2 if serviceability is a must. I have a Hybrid 46 and love it but wish I could take it apart to clean!!

[cwtebay]

I use direct thread for most of mine. I have tried to use oversize suppressors for lower diameter calibers with definitely unsatisfactory results. That said - my 30 caliber cans work fantastic for 6.5, especially with a reducer end cap.
User serviceable is good and bad in my opinion. That introduces more moving parts (hence the reason I direct thread mostly) so an increased chance of undesirable effects (i.e. POI shift, baffle strike). Cleaning non user serviceable suppressors is quite straightforward in my experience.
As far as your perfect suppressor - there's no give without take. You can have light and short - but sound mitigation and recoil reduction will suffer, you can have ridiculous reduction in both recoil and noise - but the thing might need a cart to haul it around.
I have my own favorites, and I am as sure as God made little green apples that you are about to hear a whole lot more opinions on likes and dislikes. There are innumerable videos and websites dedicated to just this to help guide you along also.
Since you're interested in shooting cast through it - the build up of powder coating (probably lead also) is not a nothing problem, and neither is baffle strike from gas checks.
My best advice is to get the suppressor for the firearm that will get the most use because you'll likely be getting another one soon.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

[dverna]

Following. I am on the same journey.

Was going to order one this week but still mulling over options.

[redriverhunter]

I purchase a rebel suppressor a few years back, had a baffel strike, rebel suppressor went under. I now have a 600 + paper weight, that I waited 9 months for. In my opinion you are not only purchasing a suppressor as much as the manufacturer of the suppressor. My greatest concern when I purchase a suppressor is will the company be around to repair it if needed, and their reputation for repairing a suppressor. I would want a company that has a its broke we will fix it warranty.

[Barry54]

I use direct thread for most of mine. I have tried to use oversize suppressors for lower diameter calibers with definitely unsatisfactory results. That said - my 30 caliber cans work fantastic for 6.5, especially with a reducer end cap.
User serviceable is good and bad in my opinion. That introduces more moving parts (hence the reason I direct thread mostly) so an increased chance of undesirable effects (i.e. POI shift, baffle strike). Cleaning non user serviceable suppressors is quite straightforward in my experience.
As far as your perfect suppressor - there's no give without take. You can have light and short - but sound mitigation and recoil reduction will suffer, you can have ridiculous reduction in both recoil and noise - but the thing might need a cart to haul it around.
I have my own favorites, and I am as sure as God made little green apples that you are about to hear a whole lot more opinions on likes and dislikes. There are innumerable videos and websites dedicated to just this to help guide you along also.
Since you're interested in shooting cast through it - the build up of powder coating (probably lead also) is not a nothing problem, and neither is baffle strike from gas checks.
My best advice is to get the suppressor for the firearm that will get the most use because you'll likely be getting another one soon.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk

That’s kind of what my research is telling me.

Seems like a dedicated 30 caliber model would make the most sense as a starting point for me.

Not sure I’d be inclined to use gas checks for subsonic 300 Whisper loads.
300 Win mag is jacketed only for me. The 308 would see little to no cast.

[dverna]

That’s kind of what my research is telling me.

Seems like a dedicated 30 caliber model would make the most sense as a starting point for me.

Not sure I’d be inclined to use gas checks for subsonic 300 Whisper loads.
300 Win mag is jacketed only for me. The 308 would see little to no cast.

I started looking at something that would do .223 to .357 Mag. Like you, I am now leaning to a. 30 cal.

They offer end caps to make a .30 cal more efficient when running on a .223 but the chance of forgetting to change out the end cap causes me to worry. Investing $800-1500 makes me question my needs vs my wants.

[JimB..]

Figure out what you really need. Trying to accommodate what you might need or want in the future leads to trading off functionality today for nothing in the future.

FWIW, I always recommend that folks start with a 22LR suppressor, it is the most fun. Centerfire Pistols are fine to suppress. I like single shot rifles in pistol calibers and PCCs. Rifles generally aren’t hearing safe even when suppressed, so not great fun for me.

[HWooldridge]

One of my sons has 22 and 30 cal cans (I don't know what make off the top of my head). He uses the 22 on a .223 AR, and the 30 on a 6.5mm AR and a bolt-action 7mm mag. He claims there is no difference in suppression ability for the 22 and 6.5 calibers, but the 7mm is somewhat noisier.

Main reason he went to suppressors is that his school age children often accompany him during his work days on a large Texas ranch, and he doesn't want to worry about hearing protection if something pops up that needs to be dispatched with a shot.

I mentioned elsewhere that I'm working on putting a 45 can on a Ruger LC Carbine but don't have the stamp yet.

[Alchemist]

Griffin Armament Optimus. 22lr up to 338 magnums. Removable baffles for maintenance and can be configured in multiple ways. Mine came with muzzle device to attach to 5/8-24 barrel. Ruger American 7.62x39 with subsonic Prvi Partesan gives you a “click-whack” sound signature. Oh yeah, there’s also a chuckle that’s difficult to stifle.

Mounted on 10/22 with CCI standard velocity is about as quiet as you could want. Action function is about all you hear.

[Barry54]

I’ve been around a few different ones. Rugged Razor 7.62 on a 308 left the impression that I’m glad I didn’t blow 800+200 on that.

A Banish 30 seemed much more effective. But it was on 300 bo not 308 Winchester. It was amazing on a 22 pistol!

Not sure if either of these are user serviceable, but between the two, I know which one I wouldn’t buy.

[gmsharps]

I put a banish 45 on my Ruger pcc 45. It works great. If you go this route print out the disassembly instructions as the baffles are colored coded but after a few disassembly’s you will have it down.

Gary

[Dantiff2]

The banish 45 is not rifle rated.

[nannyhammer]

Have used the Banish 30 on .223, 6.8, and .308 semi autos with out issue. Have used it on a .22 mag but it's really nose heavy so I'm looking at a dedicated rimfire version

https://www.silencercentral.com/products/banish-30

[MakeMineA10mm]

Well, this is a DEEP subject, and a lot of what is best for you depends on what characteristics you prioritize. I’ll tell you my choices and why, and you can decide where your priorities lie.

22LR can (everyone gets one, because it’s cheap, fun shooting, even if you’re not thinking of it now, you will end up with one.). So, my criteria here is, by far, serviceability. 22 is notoriously dirty to cans with wax coatings, carbon from semi-smokeless powder/low pressure not consuming powder completely, and of course, soft lead which is vaporized and re-condenses inside the can. So my choice here is the Sparrow from SilencerCo. Look up some videos of it being taken apart for cleaning, and you’ll immediately know why it fits my criteria. I’m not prioritizing sound reduction, because I always pair it with CCI subsonic ammo, which does a LOT of the quieting itself. I’ve shot skunks in my yard at night in the city, and no one heard. (Host is a 10/22, and ammo was CCI segmented subsonic.). Cost was $300 + Tax Stamp when I got mine.

9mm. I have two choices here. First, a pistol silencer, for me, has to be flexible and, in at least one configuration, concealable.
• Choice #1 - I have a Sig P365 customized by me thanks to its modularity to be the perfect CCW. But, as my imagination got going, I decided it would be the perfect modern day 007 / Secret Agent pistol, and therefore needed suppressed. After doing a lot of research, I settled on the JK Armaments 105 9CCX as the perfect Bond suppressor. It is very modular and you can add or subtract as many baffles as you want to reduce size OR improve sound reduction. (Cost was $359 + tax stamp when I bought mine.)
• Choice 2 - For “Normal-Size” pistols, I really like a suppressor which is 1.34-1.4” in diameter and has two length options (again, small and noisier, as well as, larger and quiet). I am biased slightly towards CGS group, and their Mod-9SK. But, Gemtech makes an extremely similar suppressor in their Lunar 9. Both have Nielson devices (buffers) to assure semi-auto cycling and both have a removable front section, so they can be run as a 4-5” short can, or as a 7-9” long, quiet can.

30-caliber - I’m really only interested in 300 Blackout for 30-cal, because a suppressor on a 30-06 helps, but doesn’t get rid of the report to where you don’t need ear-pro. My criteria here is indestructability, so I can do mag-dumps with a reset trigger and not have to worry about the can, as well as serviceability and, especially, sound reduction. The suppressor which matches all 3 criteria is the SilencerCo Chimera 300. This is not going to be cheap, but it is the best. I have the philosophy of “buy once, cry once,” and have the best there is. (Cost was $859 + tax stamp when I purchased.)

Lastly, accuracy. I hang around with a crew of current/former military and SWAT snipers, and they are deep into connections with the PRS world. So, being a shooter, I’m interested in long range accuracy, even though, I don’t do PRS and am not a sniper. Only accurate rifles are interesting, right? So, I have a 6mm GT slowly in the process of building. (When I get all the parts, it will go to the gunsmith.). In researching the can with the best accuracy and durability to handle big quantities of burning gunpowder, I learned PRS, LE snipers, and some military, pick the Thunder Beast Arms Ultra 9 with a caliber-appropriate end cap. (Mine will be 6.5mm for my 6mm GT.) (Last I checked, these were running around $1200-$1300 + tax stamp.)

My favorite sources for Suppressor info and reviews is #1 (the best) NFA Review Channel on youtube. Second is Alabama Arsenal on youtube. Both channels do a good job giving you an idea of tone and, to a degree, quietness. NFA Review also table tops them and takes them apart.

[elmacgyver0]

I went with the Banish 46 as it will work on anything that is 46 caliber and under.
Later I bought the Banish 45 because it is not as massive as the 46. Hunting I use the shorter version of the 46 and leave the extra 2 inches home.
The Banish 46 is user serviceable made entirely of titanium except for the blast baffle.
The Banish 45 is user serviceable but the baffles are aluminum and require more care cleaning than the solid titanium ones in the 46.
The 46 is rated full auto, but a bunch of juvenile mag dumps will take its toll on any suppressor no matter the manufacturer.
A hand full of rounds will make the suppressor so hot you will burn yourself without gloves or a rag to remove it.
Even a couple magazines thru my Beretta Jaguar .22 LR thru the Banish 22 suppressor will get hot enough to burn you.

[steve urquell]

I've owned my 2 cans for 7 years. My criteria if I buy again:

NO aluminum baffles and no aluminum tube unless the baffles completely block it from combustion

Standard HUB 1.375-24 mount. Let's you use universal mounts.

REX SIlentium has my eye lately. 100% heat treated SS, HUB mount, lightweight, cheap, bulletproof and no BS warranty.

They are sealed but you can use "the dip" to clean them since they are nearly impervious to all chemicals. Check them out. You can even make your own custom suppressor with as many baffles as you want in any bore size you want. Better yet call them and tell them what you want to do. No transfer fees into a state with one of their master NFA dealers listed on their site.

https://rexsilentium.com/store-2/RIF...cers-c28138007

CUSTOM build your own: https://rexsilentium.com/store-2/MG-...ASE-p158377277

[elmacgyver0]

If you get a sealed unit you need to be very careful of what you shoot through it.
A lot of jacketed bullets have exposed lead on the bases.
Some of it becomes vaporized when shot and much of that vapor condenses on the baffles.
No amount of soaking will remove it and needs to be scraped off, kind of hard to do with a sealed unit.
If you buy a sealed unit, I suggest weighing it before you ever shoot through it.
It will give you a good indication on how well your cleaning was.

[MakeMineA10mm]

I've owned my 2 cans for 7 years. My criteria if I buy again:

NO aluminum baffles and no aluminum tube unless the baffles completely block it from combustion

Another thing about aluminium - You can’t use ultrasonic cleaners.

Watch on using “The Dip.”. It’s quite toxic, and just as alum. shouldn’t be ultrasonic cleaned, certain metals shouldn’t go in the dip. (I can’t remember, but is it titanium?)

[steve urquell]

Another thing about aluminium - You can’t use ultrasonic cleaners.

Watch on using “The Dip.”. It’s quite toxic, and just as alum. shouldn’t be ultrasonic cleaned, certain metals shouldn’t go in the dip. (I can’t remember, but is it titanium?)

It eats aluminum. Not sure about Ti. I'm pretty sure it will completely clean out a sealed suppressor with just soaking. Must be handled carefully with gloves and then sent to a hazmat station. Worth it though if you've ever spent hours cleaning an aluminum core suppressor like my 2.

I smear silicone grease(dielectric grease) on my baffles and it does help reduce accumulation but the first baffles get blasted clean of it shortly and that is where the accumulation occurs.

I only shoot Fed Suppressor 45gr plated subsonic .22 thru my .22 can and that reduces lead. Most FMJ have exposed lead base. JHP do not because the jacket would separate.

I have had mixed results with PC boolits. Some leaded my suppressor badly from the PC blasting off the bases. I painted bases with header paint and baked them and it stays intact. I need to pull my can apart again and check it since i have shot some PC w/o the bases painted.