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Thread: Heavy duty punches?

  1. #1
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    Heavy duty punches?

    Hello.
    What is a good brand and source for a good quality punch set?
    I was putting a spring kit in a Sccy CP-X2 Gen3 9mm pistol.
    It has an inner frame that you have to drive out 2 pins to be able to pull it out.
    I bent 2 punches trying to get the first pin to budge. I had a roll pin punch set, so I ground the nub off of the end and tried it.
    I got a bigger hammer and hit it like I meant it. The pin finally started to move.
    After I got it out, the pins looked like they had been epoxied in place.
    I have 2 more pistols to put spring kits in and would like to get a quality punch set.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Ill probably get flamed for this but the starrett pin punches are very good I have sets of both the standard length and long lengths. I have some I turned myself and hardened as "starting" punches very short which makes then much stiffer once the pins starts moving then you can go to a longer punch. I havent had a lot of luck with general brand.
    Another trick is to use a dowel pin for the punch. A piece of brass knurled with the dowel pin pressed in. The problem with the dowel pins is they are hard to find in undersized dias. Pre hardened 4140 can be turned into pretty good pin punches also.

    A short punch to start the pin moving will save a lot of bent punches over time. The short punch and getting the pin to move 1/4" or so frees it up and breaks the tension making it much easier to move with the standard punch

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you make your own punches a gradual angle down to the punches dia then a radius blending the 2 together greatly strengthens the punch. R$ind a suitable radius on the turning tool blending the point over then turn blending the 2 together as you reduce dia.

    The other trick is to tap with a heavy hammer letting the inertia do the work

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Short starter punches are the best for breaking loose pins, then move to your standard punches.

    Use your damaged or bent punches to make some starter punches. It will save your full size punches in the future.

  5. #5
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    The best punches I own are those I made from standard AR15/M16/M4 firing pins, slow ground as to maintain hardness, toughness, and temper. Wicked tough, and I tried one on a job that bent the same size punches in all of my sets. After that success without bending, and given my extensive collection of AR firing pins (a story in itself), I use one as is diameter, and ground down two more smaller. I ground off the actual firing pin tip from all three.

    For store bought punches, I have a set of General brand that's held up very well.

    Noah

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    I have both short and long Grace punches.
    The short Grace punch bent a couple of times until the pin finally moved.

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    Emergency car kit
    Last edited by lar45; 12-12-2024 at 08:03 PM.

  9. #9
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    You may want to put some heat on it first, using a mini butane torch. Not enough to change colors or temper, but enough to make it too hot for your fingers. That helps get things moving most of the time.

  10. #10
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    I've tried a bunch of different punches over the years, my advice is Starrett. They're consistently the best quality and hardness. Oh, and I've used a lot of ground down M16 firing pins, as well. I don't have a source for them any longer, but I repaired many, many military weapons using them as punches!
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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I've not tried Starrett punches, but want to.

    I use Mayhew for normal duty stuff.
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  12. #12
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    PSA has AR15 firing pins for $6. I may have to order some just to have them on hand.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    IMG_0707 (1).jpg

    Here is the last brass hammer I made for size hadnt cut the handle socket yet. Around 10 ounces after te socket was cut. I use brass or copper hammers for punches stamps and tools as its easier on them. A dead blow version is better.


    Dead blows arnt hard to make either
    Materials
    3/4 or 1/2" copper tube
    same size copper tee
    2 caps or plugs turned to fit
    Small hammer handle.

    Remove the stops in the tee so tube can slide straight thru
    Cut a piece of tubing 3-3 1/2" long
    Slide the tube thru the tee with flux and one cap fluxed. solder these together sliding the tube thru seals the tee socket off so the tube can be filled with fine lead shot.
    Fill the tune to 1/8"-1/4" of full wit 9 or finer lead shot
    add a few drops of light oil
    Stand up in water and solder last cap on.
    Lightly squeeze the last tee oval to fit handle epoxy handle in and pin after cured.
    Turned plugs will last longer but even the caps do pretty well

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Rapier's Avatar
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    Retired so can not be in "business", but still do a few repairs for gratis. Friend came by to pick up his 1960s M-75 Marlin Glenfield I repaired for him, so he gave me this, cotton picket tooth, to make a punch from:
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Look for core and ejector pins online they come in many different lengths dias with a head on them. I believe core pins are hardened thru and ejector pins are a thick case hardening but may have that reversed. They are a very good tool steel. We used them for punches when in a hurry and didnt want to make one. Dont use them with a good hammer as they will damage hammer faces. A good make use option

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    This set right here https://www.protoindustrial.com/prod...-pin-punch-set

    J48007
    Proto® 7 Piece Super-Duty Pin Punch Set

    Made from S2 steel and specially heat-treated for greater strength and durability.One-piece design for strength and durability.Reverse taper to help prevent binding.

    Or Starrett

    Those two are by far my best punches. Nothing else comes close.

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub BS2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDHasty View Post
    This set right here https://www.protoindustrial.com/prod...-pin-punch-set

    J48007
    Proto® 7 Piece Super-Duty Pin Punch Set

    Made from S2 steel and specially heat-treated for greater strength and durability.One-piece design for strength and durability.Reverse taper to help prevent binding.

    Or Starrett

    Those two are by far my best punches. Nothing else comes close.
    I agree, nothing comes close! Buy once.

  18. #18
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    If you have a driveshaft service shop nearby. the roller bearings that keep a universal joint going are hard to beat. They will be all over the floor of the shop. Make the punch body out of anything handy, and drill a hole for the pin. Should make a good starting punch. The ends of thses pins will likely be radiused, and will need to be ground square.

  19. #19
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    I ordered a set of Protos from Grainger last . I was at Tractor supply today and picked up a set to get me by until the protos come .

    Resized_20241214_121146_1734214088559.jpg
    Last edited by lar45; 12-15-2024 at 08:50 AM.

  20. #20
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    The talk of making a dead blow hammer sounded like a good thing to do.
    So I went to Ace Hardware and raided the plumbing section.
    They only had one 3/4" cap Guess I'll have to hit up Home Depot.
    I picked up some 3/4" plugs that looked like they would make a great hammer face.
    I must have been tired when I got them. Honest I really do know that pipe threads are tapered and only go in one way. OOPS! I'm glad I saved the receipt.
    I understand filling almost all the way with lead shot, but what purpose does the little bit of oil serve?



    Ace didn't have a hammer handle smaller than one for a sledge hammer, but they did have a rake handle.




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