Okay, I want to make some alloy that will be a BHN of 18. I have tried the spreadsheets but they haven't helped.
How much pewter do I need to add to 8 pounds of pure lead to get 18 BHN?
I don't want to waste any pewter.
ACC
Okay, I want to make some alloy that will be a BHN of 18. I have tried the spreadsheets but they haven't helped.
How much pewter do I need to add to 8 pounds of pure lead to get 18 BHN?
I don't want to waste any pewter.
ACC
You should look at rotometals "super hard" alloy.
If I remember right pewter is to help with fill out and some hardness, tpu would need antimony from linotype or similar to alloy in to get to 18bhn
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I don't think you can hit BHN=18 with just tin. I don't believe 50/50 solder is even BHN=15. You will need to add linotype or monotype (or the obscenely priced super hard alloy) to get to 15 and above
Another variable is whether you air cool or water quench. I agree with others that you will need some antimony to get to 18bhn.
You will need antimony.
6 lbs lead, 3lbs super hard, 1 lbs lbs pewter. The copper in the pewter should help a little.
18 is pretty hard, Are you shooting high velocity in rifle?
I think the issue with pewter is you really dont know what the composition is so the mixing chart is only a guide. Ifs pure tin, which it is not, then 16-1 would get you about 11-12bhn. Adding more wont gain you much hardness if any.
Last edited by fredj338; 09-18-2024 at 05:01 PM.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
Tin only ads .3 BHN per 1%. You need to ad antimony as in lino or one of the type metals.
ACC, what are you shooting that you need that hard of a bullet?
If you cast with WW and water drop, you should get around 18.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
What are you looking to cast/shoot?
My wheel weights have been 12-14BHN for the last 5 years or more. That chart above must have been testing stick on wheel weights? 9 BHN? Or stick on weights combined with clip ons?
12-14BHN has been plenty hard enough to shoot.
Lyman #2 (90% lead and 5% each of tin and antimony) is about the maximum amount of tin that you'd want in a casting alloy. Anything above 5% tin is just a waste of tin as you'd start getting tin nodules in the metal from all the tin that couldn't dissolve into solution. Usually an alloy with between 3% and 4% tin will have a nice balance of toughness, ductility, and mold fill out. It's antimony that's added to alloys that improves the hardness. I doubt that you would ever get above 12 BHN using a lead/tin alloy. (and you'd have to use a lot of tin to get there) If you want hard bullets the typical way of doing it is to use an alloy that mimics clip on wheel weights + 2% tin, then water quenching the bullets to heat treat them. Be stingy with your pewter, it's expensive and you only need a small amount of it when adding to a lead and antimony alloy.
I got it from a shotgun forum that turned up in a search for an easy to read concise chart years ago. They apparently got it from pnjresources.com. Right or wrong to the nth degree of picking nits, it still illustrates the OP needs antimony, right? No?
Here's a formula I'm assuming they used to build the chart. It's beyond my level of GAS to go any further. Do what you want with it.
Wheelweights are what they are. That's why I do large batches at a time and homogenize them into one hardness. My source for all types of WWs is camped right beside one of the busiest interstates in the country and buys their scrap weights from tire shops all up and down that highway, who knows where they originated from. The brinell is what the brinell is, and its never not easy enough to adjust one way or the other. Might could be a misprint too, all the other stuff I've fooled with checks out pretty close with that chart.
Right now I am reloading 9mm,38 special, 357 magnum, 40 S&W, 7.62X39, and in the near future 30/30.
I mix my lead for the fastest caliber, that being 7.62X39 less hassle that way. I powder coat the 7.62X39 bullets, and tumble lube the rest. I use the Lyman 311410 for the 7.62X39, but have ordered a six cavity Lee 150 grain for the 30/30 this bullet will also be powder coated.
My speed on the 7.62X39 has been chronographed at 2410-2425 fps.
ACC
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |