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Thread: Rifled Hastings barrel with horrible fouling.

  1. #81
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Damage is from chamber to muzzle with the worst being in the 10” in front of the chamber. Let’s see if I can post some pics.Attachment 327851Attachment 327852Attachment 327853Attachment 327854Attachment 327855

    If this barrel could speak the stories it’d tell would make us weep.
    The bottom 3 pictures shows the black stuff is a coating and not pitting or fouling. Did someone cerakote the inside? There are a few flecks of black in the lands but my guess is they are mostly clean because the coating was shot off where it engages the slug. The majority of the black is still in the groove where the wad/ bullet does not touch as much. Can you flake off a piece to get a closer look at what it is? Maybe some firelapping with an oversized bullet will work?

    This thread has been going on for a while but did anyone ever shoot it to see how accurate it is? If the coating is just in the grooves it might not interfere with the slug.

  2. #82
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delkal View Post
    The bottom 3 pictures shows the black stuff is a coating and not pitting or fouling. Did someone cerakote the inside? There are a few flecks of black in the lands but my guess is they are mostly clean because the coating was shot off where it engages the slug. The majority of the black is still in the groove where the wad/ bullet does not touch as much. Can you flake off a piece to get a closer look at what it is? Maybe some firelapping with an oversized bullet will work?

    This thread has been going on for a while but did anyone ever shoot it to see how accurate it is? If the coating is just in the grooves it might not interfere with the slug.
    Look at the photo in post 17. It’s coated with something that breaks off like sand or glass. It doesn’t “flake off” at all. Tiny crumbs is the best I could break free.

  3. #83
    Boolit Buddy
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    No clue what the previous owner did but this is not any type of fouling. Did they bake on some kind of epoxy to prevent corrosion?

    Here is a PDF on some ways to remove cured epoxy. They use stronger solvents like pure methylene chloride or heat. The boiling in water method could be promising. One thing they mention is to use the tip of a soldering iron to soften the epoxy so I would try it near the muzzle and see if it does anything. I would not heat the whole barrel to a high temp but at least it can help figure out what we are dealing with.

    https://www.tedpella.com/technote_ht...ured_Epoxy.pdf

  4. #84
    Boolit Master
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    Airplane paint stripper is a gel form of methylene (methyl?) chloride, I could shoot that down the barrel and let it soak a while, but that doesn’t fix the chatter.

    I’ve been assuming that the black is carbonized plastic, but so far no chemicals will soften it.

    If I was inclined to lap this out I’d probably turn a series of brass laps to cut back the lands. I think it’d be a smooth bore by the time 75% of the damage has been removed.

    I haven’t ever put a blued part in an ultrasonic cleaner, but I could give that a try.

    BTW, I’d tend to agree that this happened in the manufacturing, but who would have kept such a barrel?

  5. #85
    Boolit Buddy
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    After seeing those photos, if it were mine I might consider summoning an exorcist

  6. #86
    Boolit Master armoredman's Avatar
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    Tomato stake?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check