Sell me on the 327 Federal Magnum

[Thundarstick]

For ones who still may not know. The 327FM calls for a small rifle primer that takes more of a wack to ignite. This is the reason for the heavy hammer springs in 327 revolvers. I have 2 9mm semi auto pistols, and a collection of 327 revolvers, plus the Henry rifle. I shot factory ammo, and roll my own.

[trapper9260]

For ones who still may not know. The 327FM calls for a small rifle primer that takes more of a wack to ignite. This is the reason for the heavy hammer springs in 327 revolvers. I have 2 9mm semi auto pistols, and a collection of 327 revolvers, plus the Henry rifle. I shot factory ammo, and roll my own.

I know the data calls for SRP for loading the 327 . I still use the SPP . I do not see any need to just buy primers that at this time will not use it in anything else. Besides I have my loads shoot the same ammo in my BH as in my Hadi Rifle in 327 . I am working on to have it shoot the same in the 4" SP 101 . That way I have one type of ammo in all.

[Green Frog]

While Federal may use SRPs in their factory leadings, all of my hand loads (including a batch where I got somewhat exuberant with the powder) have had standard SPPs. My Model 66 cum 616 had previously been tuned for PPC and has a very light DA and SA trigger pull. With my hottest hand loads I see some primer flattening, but no sign of dangerous pressure damage. This is my personal experience. Your mileage may vary.

Froggie

[Thundarstick]

Load how you want, just saying if you drop that hammer spring to where it just does trip off standard spp, you're likely to have misfires when you filler up with factory fodder! I learned this vary early on with 327 double actions. I went back to the heavier hammer springs and practiced more double action shooting. YMMV

[P Flados]

Load how you want, just saying if you drop that hammer spring to where it just does trip off standard spp, you're likely to have misfires when you filler up with factory fodder! I learned this vary early on with 327 double actions. I went back to the heavier hammer springs and practiced more double action shooting. YMMV

I replaced the springs on my SP-101 with a Wolff spring kit. I later changed back to the factory hammer spring due to FTFs.

The Wolff trigger return spring probably made a bigger difference in the feel of the gun and is still installed.

[Thundarstick]

I replaced the springs on my SP-101 with a Wolff spring kit. I later changed back to the factory hammer spring due to FTFs.

The Wolff trigger return spring probably made a bigger difference in the feel of the gun and is still installed.

Looks like we traveled the same road!

[ohen cepel]

For ones who still may not know. The 327FM calls for a small rifle primer that takes more of a wack to ignite. This is the reason for the heavy hammer springs in 327 revolvers. I have 2 9mm semi auto pistols, and a collection of 327 revolvers, plus the Henry rifle. I shot factory ammo, and roll my own.

I just checked Speer, Hodgdon, Hornady, and Lyman manuals. Only one, Speer (IIRC) called for SRP's, the others depending on load called for SPM or SPP. Does throw another variable in the mix now for me.........Speer called for Fed 205's, and Fed has a reputation for being softer than most. If loading a harder SR primer I can see light hammer strikes increasing.

I have several 327's which have had lighter springs put in them and have not had light primer strikes with any of them aside from a Taurus, but I think I have that issue addressed and it was not a spring one.

Not saying that is a huge sample size, just stating my experience with the round.

[Green Frog]

Project 616 was built on a highly modified Model 66. Most people who pull the trigger on it (SA or DA) are amazed at how smooth and light it feels... this was done when it was tuned for PPC work. Could I do it again? No, but but it sure came out sweet that time! And before you ask, it pops the prime first time every time, regardless of type or brand. back in the day, we always used Federal SPPs when we could get them, but I find that to be unnecessary.
Froggie

[jdgabbard]

Project 616 was built on a highly modified Model 66. Most people who pull the trigger on it (SA or DA) are amazed at how smooth and light it feels... this was done when it was tuned for PPC work. Could I do it again? No, but but it sure came out sweet that time! And before you ask, it pops the prime first time every time, regardless of type or brand. back in the day, we always used Federal SPPs when we could get them, but I find that to be unnecessary.
Froggie

Really? You pop primers every time? Have you considered having the firing pin gently stoned down a little?

[Green Frog]

Really? You pop primers every time? Have you considered having the firing pin gently stoned down a little?

I said I “pop” the primer every time, meaning it goes off. I didn’t say “pierce” which would indicate improper ignition with the primer being unduly damaged. As I stated earlier, on some of my hottest factory or hand loads, I occasionally get some flattening, but no structure failures nor failures to fire. I’m quite happy with my firing pin just the way it is and don’t plan on altering it.
Froggie

[jdgabbard]

I said I “pop” the primer every time, meaning it goes off. I didn’t say “pierce” which would indicate improper ignition with the primer being unduly damaged. As I stated earlier, on some of my hottest factory or hand loads, I occasionally get some flattening, but no structure failures nor failures to fire. I’m quite happy with my firing pin just the way it is and don’t plan on altering it.
Froggie

I misunderstood what you were getting at. I thought you meant it pierced primers.... No worries, if it doesn't do that I wouldn't mess with it either!

[RJM52]

My full load .327s use a SR primer. The other day I was out shooting a SP101 that has a VERY nice action job...and brought the wrong bag of ammo with me that had SR primers. Only 1-2 in a cylinder full would go off DA and only 3-4 SA... Yet with SP primers will run 100% regardless of the make of the primer.

Yesterday had the same bag of ammo out with a Single-Seven and every one went off...

Bob

[Green Frog]

With all of my 32s I sorta work to the lowest common denominator. I size my bullets to .313” and use standard SPPs… both in S&W DA revolvers and Ruger SAs. My tuned DAs and my box stock SAs should set off whatever they’re likely to be fed.

I had my faux Model 16-3 built on a 14-3 receiver (apparently “stock”) and the ‘smith gave me tight chambers with .313” throats and my Project 616, as stated, was built on a highly tuned Model 66 ND, so both should fire the same 32 S&W Long ammo reliably.
Of course the stock Ruger SAs don’t care. They’ll eat anything!

Froggie

[rintinglen]

I am underwhelmed with my most recent .327, a Ruger SP101 3 inch. It has a miserable trigger.

Even after a thorough cleaning to remove metal chips and the addition of a spring kit, it is still gritty enough to remind one of a barefoot walk on gravel. I am hoping it will smooth out with use, but I am dismayed at how far QC has fallen at Ruger. I have several--actually three currently and one previously-Security Six series revolvers and all of them have decent triggers. Maybe not Pre-war S&W smooth, but decent to pretty good would describe them all. I have yet to run into an SP101 that has a good off the shelf trigger. (I know the fan boys will be jumping off their chairs to defend their personal guns, but I have only examined 6 or 8, and only have two, none of which had very good actions--though my 4 inch now after about two hours of work and 30 dollars in replacement springs and shims is acceptable.) I could have bought a Taurus for 200 dollars less and had a better trigger. Rant done.

[Green Frog]

S&W makes DA revolvers, Colt makes auto pistols and Ruger makes SA revolvers. The more times I try to forget this, the worse my experiences seem to get... with only a few exceptions.
Yes, I love me a 327 S&W and a 327 Super Blackhawk, but for a 45 ACP, give me an old Colt 1911!
Froggie

[Noah Zark]

I jumped on the 327 bandwagon because of experience with the 32 H&R Magnum, the 32-20, and the 7.62 Nagant Revolver. Specifically I had an interest in the .32 a a true caliber (not using the word as a synonym for cartridge, as so many do) and tons of boolits. I never intended to shoot full-house 327s regularly, but to tweak loads for specific firearms for POA and accuracy. So I ended up with loads that are in between H&R Magnum and 327 Fed Mag factory loads, but reasonably accurate.

The firearms I currently have in 327 are:

3.1" SP101 Stainless
2.2" Charter Arms Patriot Stainless
3.75" Ruger Single Seven Birdshead Stainless
6" Ruger GP100 Blued
Henry Big Boy blued steel lever gun (no hideous brass, thank you).

My favorites to shoot with reasonable 327 loads or "factory" 32 H&R loads are the Charter and the Ruger Birdshead with the 3.1" SP101 tied for second. Stepping up to hotter loads, to and including factory 327, the 6" GP100 is the ticket. I've not fired a S&W in 327 because I have an irrational aversion to the handcuff key lock. I once owned a short LCR but it was unsuccessfully challenging to get any kind of accuracy at POA, so it went down the road. YMMV.

The steel Henry is the second such levergun because the first one didn't feed / eject consistently because the company uses the 357 Magnum extractor instead of a new part number specifically for the 327. I even installed a Rulon plastic magazine tube insert to shrink the ID of the 357 mag tube Henry uses so that 327 cartridges fed straighter and more consistently. I used a mag tube insert for the 32-20 ID intended to fit into a 357 levergun mag tube. It worked better, but not perfect and I got disgusted and sold it with full disclosure. A couple years ago I had the coincidental chance to meet Anthony Imperiato of Henry at a big Henry dealer in PA and we had a great discussion. He said the newer 327s that Henry was shipping had improved feeding, so I took a chance some months later on a current production 327 steel lever I found in a store. It does feed and extract better, but the extractor is still a 357 extractor and it fits the 327 case groove like a cheap 1911 extractor does - making contact partway up the front taper of the extractor groove. Still, it's more reliable than the first one.

HTH,

Noah

[Chubbs]

I started enjoying .32s with a .32 H&R Single Six. I followed it pretty quickly with a Marlin 1894. The Single Six is way more accurate than me. So far the Marlin shoots .75" at 50 yards. I still have grand plans for more load development and I think I can slim the groups down a little. Both are a hoot to shoot, but the Marlin is too heavy for what it is. I have a weakness for Marlin lever guns, so there you go.

I love my 3 screw .357 Blackhawk and .44 SPL flattop because the smaller frame really does make a difference compared to the larger frame Blackhawks. Sizing down to a Single Six/Seven sized frame makes even more of difference if you are OK with the smaller caliber.

I recently bought a couple of .327 Magnums: a 4" SP101 and a 10" Contender barrel. The SP101 is a really great little woods bumming size.

The Single Six and SP101 have a lot of versatility for me in pretty small packages. I am currently working up some full bore .327 loads for the SP101, but I expect 99% of the time I will shoot loads at a firm .32HR level. I think of the .32s as reloadable .22 Magnums. The .327 gives you way more performance, but that is not the niche I am looking for right now.

The Contender is what it is. The barrel came as a package deal with a .41 Mag ported barrel. I put a 2x Leupold on it, but I'm not really sure what I am going to do with it. My initial plan is to work up stout loads and work on shooting it at way longer ranges than I have business shooting a handgun. With cast .32s I can do that really cheaply.

[Green Frog]

The Contender is what it is. The barrel came as a package deal with a .41 Mag ported barrel. I put a 2x Leupold on it, but I'm but really sure what I am going to do with it. My initial plan is to work up stout loads and work on shooting it at way longer ranges than I have business shooting a handgun. With cast .32s I can do that really cheaply.

Is the Contender barrel a factory made or after market? If the former, it may have a 308 bore diameter. That kept me from wanting the 32-20 barrel TC made for them. I could get really cranked up about one of those. 327 FM has a a lot of potential in a solid gun with no barrel to cylinder gap so they don’t lose any power and put it all into velocity.
Froggie

[Chubbs]

Is the Contender barrel a factory made or after market? If the former, it may have a 308 bore diameter. That kept me from wanting the 32-20 barrel TC made for them. I could get really cranked up about one of those. 327 FM has a a lot of potential in a solid gun with no barrel to cylinder gap so they don’t lose any power and put it all into velocity.
Froggie

It is an MGM barrel with a .311 diameter. All I've shot through it so far are 100 gr SWCs and 100 gr WCs. All loaded as .32 HR and all sized .313. Pretty informal so far, but it seemed to prefer the SWCs. I was really surprised that the WCs shoot about 2" higher at 35 yrds.