I have used Ed's Red in my shotgun barrels smooth and rifled for a very long time. Cleans, preserves, push to wipe bore before taking it for a walk and a couple wet ones when you get home, hard to beat IMHO!
|
   
   
|
|
I have used Ed's Red in my shotgun barrels smooth and rifled for a very long time. Cleans, preserves, push to wipe bore before taking it for a walk and a couple wet ones when you get home, hard to beat IMHO!
Have you tried just using the acetone/ATF and leaving a good coating in the bore then let it sit for a few hours then bronze brush? If there is plastic that should get it to lift then it should brush out... or at least some should brush out. It may take several applications but much easier than putting together a pipe to soak the whole barrel in.
If you don't see plastic coming out then it is likely lead fouling so a lead remover should take care of it.
I wouldn't hesitate to push a cork into the chamber whether actual cork or rubber then fill with acetone or acetone/ATF either. If the cork is 3/4" long or thereabouts even if the acetone attacks it, it should last long enough for the acetone to do its work. Just stand the barrel up in an empty paint can ot something so if it leaks the acetone won't run out on the floor.
I am a simple guy, I like simple and cheap solutions!
Good luck!
Longbow
Simple and cheap! Thanks Longbow!!Originally Posted by longbow
I just remembered the quart of clear pvc primer I already have. I’ll try it first instead of going to buy acetone.
What I found is that a really tight jag and copper Chore Boy will scrape the heavy lead and plastic buildup out but I have to put the handle of an old Kleen Bore shotgun stainless rod on the floor and put a lot of weight on it to force it through. I’ve bought barrels that others gave up on and they became absolutely phenomenal barrels after getting them cleaned out and keeping them that way. The lead comes out in gobs and large flakes doing that with the Chore Boy. I wish I could explain it better. Once clean a tight patch and bore solvent keeps them good from my experience. I’ve never had to make more than a few passes with the Chore Boy.
We have been using slug guns on the islands in Puget Sound for decades.
https://hunting-washington.com/smf/i...,193502.0.html
Last edited by JDHasty; 05-24-2024 at 06:12 PM.
acetone . plug one end of the barrel fill it up let it set for about 24 hrs. get after it while the poly is still soft
Well, the wine cork held oil overnight! On to something powerful now!
There ya go! Fill that baby up with acetone for a while then see what happens. If there is plastic there it should soften and come off with a bronze brush or copper Chore Boy... just make sure you get all copper Chore Boys! The last ones I got were copper coated steel. Might be soft steel but I wouldn't want to be putting one in a bore especially when tight to scrape out lead.
If you don't get plastic or if there is "stuff" left it is most likely lead (Duh! What else would it be?) so a lead remover should clean that up if a scrubbing with a bronze brush or Chore Boy and bore solvent or penetrating oil doesn't.
Yes, those barrels are pricey! I would like one but the price here is even higher!
Longbow
PVC primer is a much better choice than straight acetone. It has other solvents in it so if the acetone doesn't work the rest of them will.
Thinking about it I might have to use the primer instead of acetone in my next batch of Eds Red.
It’s currently filled with clear pvc primer. The stuff is intended to soften pvc in preparation for glue, so why not?
It’s probably mostly acetone anyway.
I take a magnet to the store when I but copper Chore Boy scrubbers. I don’t know any other way to sort out the all copper from the plated ones.
What in the Devil! I thought copper was harder than plastic and harder than lead? Chore Boy is flattened against the jag, and the bore is taking on a copper color...
Do they make Chore Boy in stainless steel? That’s next!!
Dang it! Stainless steel scouring pad indented my brass jag.
Hmmm....I thought it would look better. Try and chip out some of the deposits in the groove to see what you are dealing with. Is it lead?
I’m reluctent to use stainless anything. I think what you have is layers of lead or copper sandwiched between layers of plastic or powder fouling. Man, oh man, what the devil was someone shooting to get to that point? I wonder if it’s pewter or tin or God only knows what. Pistol and rifled slug barrels have pretty deep grooves and they are pretty much filled.
My buddy thinks some of this http://www.hi-vel.com/Catalog_Index/...mmunition.html
was involved. He’s a retired gunsmith and said that is his suspicion.
12 GAUGE FIREBALL
FIREBALL PRODUCES AN ENORMOUS WALL OF FIRE AND SPARKS FOR 250+ FEET! THE INCENDIARY METAL CONTAINED INSIDE BURNS AT OVER 3000 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT WHEN FIRED, SHOWERING YOUR TARGET IN A MOMENTARY WALL OF FIRE. HAS BEEN USED BY U.S. FORESTRY TO START BACKFIRES AND POLICE SWAT TEAMS FOR DIVERSIONARY TACTICS. WARNING: EXTREME FIRE HAZARD!!! (COMPARES TO DRAGON'S BREATH). CAUTION MUST BE EXERCISED WHEN FIRING THESE ROUNDS TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL BRUSH FIRES. IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT THEY BE USED AT AN APPROVED FIRING RANGE. CHECK YOUR STATE LAWS CONCERNING LAWFUL FIRING OF THIS AMMUNITION.
HV-0610 $19.95/PKG OF 3
12 GAUGE ROAD BLOCKER
THIS CARTRIDGE CONTAINS A HARDENED PROJECTILE THAT WILL IMMOBILIZE A FLEEING VEHICLE. WILL PUNCTURE TIRES AND CRITICAL PORTIONS OF AN ENGINE BLOCK. MANY USES BY LAW ENFORCEMENT ESPECIALLY AT ROAD BLOCKS.
HV-0616 $17.95/ PKG. OF 3
12 GAUGE HIGH ALTITUDE RED FLARE
THESE FLARES WILL RISE TO AN ALTITUDE OF WELL OVER 300 FEET WHEN FIRED AT A 70 DEGREE ANGLE, IN WHICH A SINGLE STAR IS RELEASED AND WILL BURN FOR APPROXIMATELY SIX TO SEVEN SECONDS. THESE ARE IDEAL FOR CAMPERS IN THE WOODS OR ON BOATS TO SIGNAL FOR ASSISTANCE. CAUTION: FIRE HAZARD.
HV-0611 $9.95/PKG OF 3
12 GAUGE HIGH ALTITUDE GREEN FLARE
THESE FLARES WILL RISE TO AN ALTITUDE OF WELL OVER 300 FEET WHEN FIRED AT A 70 DEGREE ANGLE, IN WHICH A SINGLE STAR IS RELEASED AND WILL BURN FOR APPROXIMATELY SIX TO SEVEN SECONDS. THESE ARE IDEAL FOR CAMPERS IN THE WOODS OR ON BOATS TO SIGNAL FOR ASSISTANCE. CAUTION: FIRE HAZARD.
HV-0614 $9.95/PKG OF 3
12 GAUGE HIGH ALTITUDE WHITE FLARE
THESE FLARES WILL RISE TO AN ALTITUDE OF WELL OVER 300 FEET WHEN FIRED AT A 70 DEGREE ANGLE, IN WHICH A SINGLE STAR IS RELEASED AND WILL BURN FOR APPROXIMATELY SIX TO SEVEN SECONDS. THESE ARE IDEAL FOR CAMPERS IN THE WOODS OR ON BOATS TO SIGNAL FOR ASSISTANCE. CAUTION: FIRE HAZARD.
HV-0620 $9.95/PKG OF 3
12 GAUGE COMET FLARE, GOLD
THESE FLARES ARE ALMOST EXACTLY LIKE THE HV SERIES IN RED, GREEN AND WHITE FLARES AS DESCRIBED IN OUR CATALOG. THE MAJOR DIFFERENCE IS THAT THEY PRODUCE A COLORFUL GOLD SPRAY OF SPARKS AT AN ALTITUDE OF AROUND 350 FEET IN THE AIR. IDEALLY SUITED FOR PRACTICE IN YOUR FLARE PISTOLS USING THE ADAPTERS THAT WE SUPPLY AND TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF A MISTAKE IN SHOOTING A RED, GREEN OR WHITE FLARE AS AN EMERGENCY SIGNAL.
HV-0628 $9.95/PKG OF 3
12 GAUGE COMET FLARE, SILVER
THESE FLARES ARE ALMOST EXACTLY LIKE THE HV SERIES IN RED, GREEN AND WHITE FLARES AS DESCRIBED IN OUR CATALOG. THE MAJOR DIFFERENCE IS THAT THEY PRODUCE A COLORFUL SILVER SPRAY OF SPARKS AT AN ALTITUDE OF AROUND 350 FEET IN THE AIR. IDEALLY SUITED FOR PRACTICE IN YOUR FLARE PISTOLS USING THE ADAPTERS THAT WE SUPPLY AND TO AVOID THE POSSIBILITY OF A MISTAKE IN SHOOTING A RED, GREEN OR WHITE FLARE AS AN EMERGENCY SIGNAL.
HV-0628A $9.95/PKG OF 3
12 GAUGE FLECHETTE
A FLECHETTE IS A 1 INCH DART SHAPED PROJECTILE FOR USE IN TAKING OUT SNIPERS HIDING IN THICK BRUSH OR TREES. DUE TO THE PENETRATION OF THESE PROJECTILES, TREE LIMBS AND BRUSH WILL NOT DISPERSE THE DARTS AS READILY AS ROUND SHOT. THEY WILL GIVE AN ALL COVERING PATTERN WITHIN TREES OR BRUSH. NOT INTENDED FOR HUNTING. THESE WERE UTILIZED DURING THE VIET-NAM ERA, OFTEN REFERRED TO AS THE "BEEHIVE" ROUND.
HV-0615 $14.95/PKG OF 3
Last edited by JDHasty; 05-25-2024 at 11:38 AM.
20 minutes of 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and vinegar soaking. Getting some little champagne type bubbles forming in the barrel. Doesn’t appear that it’s doing much. Not fizzing or foaming.
Make sure you degrease the barrel first. I used brake cleaner and let it dry for a while. I did this once, there was some good foaming and when I poured out the solution it was dark. I plugged the muzzle and just filled to the chamber so it wouldn't overflow. I believe this solution will hurt blueing.
Well, that is one fouled bore for sure!
Speculation on my part but it looks like melted plastic in the pic. Could be the result of what JDHasty posted.
I had a single shot smnoothbore I was loading with BP and plastic wads many years ago. The resulting powder fouling and plastic that melted/scraped off looked like that. Of course being BP fouling hot soapy water dissolved the BP then I brushed out long strips of plastic film!
I'd get some brass or aluminum and make a chisel/scraper to remove some of the mystery substance without harming the barrel then look at it to see if it is plastic or lead. It does look like melted plastic to me!
Trap wads are ldpe and from what I am finding acetone should soften it but PVC primer no. Maybe repeat the barrel filling with acetone. I'd be careful with that hydrogen peroxide/vinegar as it does apparently pit steel.
Good luck!
Longbow
Once had a take off barrel that had not been cleaned well, fully 100% copper fouled. Getting it for free I did this: made a long boat shaped vessel from tin foil, cheap and easy. Laid in the barrel that I planned on using for a project rifle for my Son. I then poured in Hoppe's letting it soak for maybe a week. repeated this again and most of the junk came out with lots of chore boy and patch work. For round three, I used a stronger bore cleaner for three days and the barrel cleaned up well. Think I spent $40. on cleaner...The bluing was not damaged
A can of computer duster upside down will coat anything sprayed with it with dry ice. Differences in coefficient of thermal expansion can break bonds between most different materials. That might be helpful in breaking a chip loose that can then be examined closely.
My retired gunsmith buddy was a factory service center for most makes and said that once the truth comes out that it was almost without exception someone shooting the type of rounds I linked to that created a mess like that. They had 50/50 success.
I’ve taken a steel pick and tried to get some pieces out by the muzzle where I can reach it. It breaks up like sand. I’ve removed lead from 22LR fired in a 223 adapter setup. It’s soft. This trash is hard!
On a positive note, the 50/50 vinegar peroxide became somewhat opaque after two soaks. Paper towel used as a patch on the jag is picking up some dark color. Ripping the chore boy to pieces. Gonna have to order more I suppose. If I’m getting color on patches, something has to be coming out?
Posting Permissions
| BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
| BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
| BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
| C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
| HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
| PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
| LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
| GC | Gas Check |
Reply With Quote