I make a new one and dovetail it in. But if you want to keep it stock, silver solder.
Drill a small hole in it and use a tap out/tap extractor to remove the stub.
Did it break or did the solder just fail?
If the latter, just silver solder it back.
The dovetail solution may be a march but would certainly be a one and done. Also the finish would minimally be affected verses HEAT.
Silver solder, if done right will hold it forever.
The catch is, "if done right".
A lot is going to depend on the tools you have available and your confidence level. Soldering will hold and do the repair in factory style. The dove tail will also work but be a modification from original. Silver soldering with true silver solder is going to require heat and the correct temp flux both the heat level and flux will probably damage the bluing.
I dont think there is enough surface area for epoxy alone to work.
What may if the stub is a snug fit in the hole is to peen up the bottom and press it in with a light coat of red locktite..
with the proper tools, lathe and mill, dovetail would do the least amount of damage to the finish. A good silver solder job is plenty good but would require getting the barrel blued again. If you use low temp solder the flux will take the blue off if it is any good.
Looks like lead/tin base soft solder... Clean or grind off as much as you can and use silver braze with the white cream flux. You will need an oxygen-acetylene torch to melt the silver braze wire. That stud will not come off.
Different manufacturer, but my Uberti copy of the same model had a similar problem. The lug as still in place but wouldn’t hold the lever in place. A gunsmith at Ft Shenandoah (North-South Skirmish Association) did as someone already suggested, made a new better shaped lug and silver soldered it on. This was several years ago and I don’t shoot a lot, but it’s worked well since the repair.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
Silver solder it is. I'll see how much it effects the finish, maybe it'll be the right amount to give it some character and not make it look like it was in a house fire.
“an armed society is a polite society.”
Robert A. Heinlein
"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus
Parts are still available. Looking at the picture, it doesn't seem to have been threaded -
https://www.vtigunparts.com/store/sh...ington%2C+Tiro
https://www.emf-company.com/store/pc...Model-c506.htm
https://www.taylorsfirearms.com/piet...ver-parts.html
“an armed society is a polite society.”
Robert A. Heinlein
"Idque apud imperitos humanitas vocabatur, cum pars servitutis esset."
Publius Tacitus
I am interested to see how your repair turned out.
Jon.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |