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Thread: Casting tricks for brass molds

  1. #21
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheelguns 1961 View Post
    Adding to the excellent post by John B, I have had this tinning before. It is very hard to remove. I flux the tinning, and carefully heat the area with a torch, and wipe with a rag. Repeat until all tinning is gone. It is more difficult than it sounds.
    My tinning removal technique was given to me by Mal Paso, who made quite the informative thread on creation of Patina on brass.
    https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...-Patina-Recipe
    I'm not sure if it's mentioned in the thread or not, but probably is.
    Heat the mold to casting temp (about 375-400º), I use a hot plate. Using beeswax and a stick (I use chop sticks), touch the area of tinning with pure beeswax so a little bit melts, then rub with stick. This is challenging to do while mold is hot, and it cools off fairly quickly, so re-heating happens multiple times, until tinning is gone. I mount the mold blocks backwards on handle, so I can access mold faces easier. Have a folded up cotton cloth on bench so you don't damage one mold face, while working on other mold face. THEN...the fun part is cleaning off the beeswax after all tinning is removed. clean as much as possible with heat and cotton cloth and q-tips, then I use MS to clean what remains, then dish soap, Hot tap water, toothbrush to clean the remaining MS residue.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    I used the mold the other day and yes, it likes to be hot, REALLY hot. Sometimes the bullets would drop right out and other times I was beating the hell out of the handles to get them to drop. I thought about smoking the mold but holding off for now. I ran probably 200 bullets through the mold but have not had time to go through them for defects. I think I saw some tinning on one of the faces right before I quit so I will have to look for and deal with that. Thanks Jon B for the great writeup on removing the tinning. I think it will be a good mold once I get it dialed in. I had the pot set at 750-775 which is way hotter than I usually cast.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check