I am working on a 10/22 project and need to float the barrel. I was just wondering about marking the stock for inletting. Perfect timing for this thread!!!
I am working on a 10/22 project and need to float the barrel. I was just wondering about marking the stock for inletting. Perfect timing for this thread!!!
I picked up two tubes of Prussian Blue from auto parts store.
Not all carry it. But they almost all carry the permatex supplies , so they could order it for you
The last few wood stocks I have messed with, I used a mixture of black oil based paint and motor oil. It isn't as messy as lipstick and is easier to see than plain oil.
Robert
Would suggest a set of action inletting screws with T handles, These oversized screws make the repetitive putting in and taking out of the receiver metal and bottom metal quite a bit easier. If you want to glass bed, add an additional 1/8" relief all around for the glass, with under cuts and small bit cross drilling to hold the glass onto the walls.
“There is a remedy for all things, save death.“
Cervantes
“Never give up, never quit.”
Robert Rogers
Roger’s Rangers
There are three kinds of men. The one that learns by reading. The few who learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.
Will Rogers
Just last week I finished the inletting and barrel channel on a stock I'm carving. I use Kiwi black shoe polish that's thinned a little bit with paint thinner, then applied to the barrel/receiver with an acid brush. Another method that I've used is to draw on the metal parts with a black dry-erase marker, but the shoe polish works better. Prussian blue is more of a machinist's tool for indicating high spots on metallic surfaces, and it has a tendency to stain both wood and fingers. It would not be one of my choices for stock work. I tried lipstick a couple of years ago and immediately rejected it. Not only is it messy and stains the wood, but it doesn't offer a good enough contrast to really see where contact is being made. Soot from a kerosene lamp would give a very even black coating to the metal surfaces, and would mark the high spots on the wood well, but doing the application with thinned shoe polish was so easy to do that I didn't bother with other methods.
You can get Jerrows Inletting Black
https://thegunworks.com/shop/custom-...letting-black/
I started using Jerrow’s inletting black about when it came out and was shown in the Brownells catalog about 1967. I tried other things but always came back to it. A couple years ago I ran out of what I had on hand and after looking saw it was still out there but at $10.00 for a little one ounce bottle then you had to pay shipping decided to try to make my own. If someone made it first why couldn’t I make it second? Started with petroleum jelly as a base then added bone black for color. It was too thick once the color was right so I thinned it with a bit of mineral oil. Perfect!
I don’t know what they use to make the stuff but this concoction to me at least looks and uses the same.
Facta non verba
The last Jerrows I bought was labeled not
for sale in Ca.
When I ordered Jerrow's a few weeks ago from Muzzle Laoding Emporium that I provided above I ordered four. While we were chatting I mentioned that it's been hard for some folks to find recently. I think he said they had something like 177 in stock. Treebone has been low on it for a while.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |