Broke the blade on my band saw and went to Harbor Freight to get a new one. They had some by-metal blades made in USA and that's what I got. I use it for gun barrels and spring steel mostly.
Broke the blade on my band saw and went to Harbor Freight to get a new one. They had some by-metal blades made in USA and that's what I got. I use it for gun barrels and spring steel mostly.
I run a little finer tpi on my band saw its also a variable pitched blade. To coarse a blade and you dont have the tooth engagement giving a poor cut and pulling teeth off. You want a minimum of 3 teeth engaged with the piece. In hack saw blades I have 12 24 and 32 tpi. On the band saw its a variable pitch 8-10 tpi for what ido cutting these give good clean cuts last and dont load up to bad. To few teeth and it rips thru, to many it loads and slides over.
The power feed on my saw makes life easier and the blades last much longer when the above is followed.
I had an old power hacksaw for awhile it was a learning experience to watch it run, chips were only on the back side of the stock the blade raised slightly on the return stroke. Used an 18" blade that was hard to find.
Where some ruin the blades is trying to cut on both strokes.
I only use the best hack saw blades, usually Starrett and use high tension frames. I think they are Bahco.
I have a Harbor Freight about six blocks from my home and don’t buy much there. Zip ties etc, but have bought a few rechargeable magnetic LED lights that are exactly what I was looking for and could not find what I wanted anywhere else.
Most of my tools are older. Most of what isn’t is pretty specialized and you won’t find it there.
I miss the Sandvik brand of hacksaw and blades.
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I put in a new kitchen sink a couple years ago, bought all the plastic drain parts at Lowe's. I had leaks and drips that I couldn't stop, seemed the tighter it got the more it leaked. I sat around ticked off for a while. I finally loosened everything up and poured some boiling water down the drain. Doesn't hurt to put a very thin spear of silicon grease on the threads and seating surface. After everything got hot I tightened it all up. The leaks stopped and haven't had anymore even after taking off and cleaning.
Changing to files and tools, I like good tools myself. I will buy Harbor Freight for some things, don't like the idea but sometimes the good stuff is too expensive for low usage. If you make a living with tools the best worth it. I do try to pick up better things used at flea markets and estate sales. Last week I bought five odd Nicholson files at a flea market for a dollar, mostly for the handles. They were clogged up with what looked like paint, carded them and put in vinegar overnight. Turned out the are good.
Bought a set of Victorinox nail clippers, sharp.
No-mes nail clippers.Made in Troy,NY.I got them from Amazon.They aren't cheap and are excellent.
I bought a knipex 7" slip joint pliers about 15 years ago for around $35. They still list for about the same price online. They are the best slip joint pliers I have seen. I also bought a Chinese 1" to 4" mic set about 35 years go and used them for 7 years in an auto machine shop. They are every bit as accurate as the Starrets the others were using. They were about $90 vs Starrets for around $400. I'm now retired so they don't get used like when I bought them but they still look and work like new.
HF does have some good drills. The cobalt ones they sell are quite good and cost about $110 for the 115pc set.There other drills are either junk or only ok.
I can state unequivocally that Boggs file sharpening service is one of the best things going that few people know about. If they paint it red on the tang they don’t want to see it again, don’t charge you for that one and tell you to feel free to use it up then make something useful out of it. I’ve found the red painted ones to give pretty decent service when I get them back. The ones that they actually charge you for are like new from my experience.
We can thank Bill Clinton for the Chinese crap flooding this country. He granted China favored nations trading status in 1995. I was working at Browns Ferry Nuclear Plant when that happened and within 3 weeks the tool rooms were full of Chinese tools. I am of the opinion that 1 man should never be empowered to grant such a landmark decision whether he is POTUS or not. Kinda like forgiving student loans,
'ya know. Rant over.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us! The more I travel, the more I like right where I am.
I use a lot of porta-band saw blades onmy job. Even Starret has differing levels of quality- the economy line is made in China. The worst thing to have, is a Chinese blade trying to cut Chinese stainless steel pipe. Crappy blades and lots of carbide inclusions in the pipe will actually wipe the teeth off the blade. The bean counters in provurement think they are getting a deal, but for instance, if you can get flapper discs at half price, but you use more than twice as many to do the same job, it is not a savings.
You have the right to force me to pay for the feeding, housing, clothing, education, and medical treatment of yourself and your children when I have THE RIGHT TO FORCE YOU TO PICK MY COTTON!
Section 1 13th Amendment to the Constitution:
"Neither slavery nor involuntary servitude, except as punishment for a crime whereof the party shall have been duly convicted, shall exist within the United States, or any place subject to their jurisdiction."
This made me smile: Lost my still-sharp 1970 Made In USA "Trim" branded nippers last year. Went out on a limb and bought these same "made in Japan" nippers having generally only good experience with Japanese stuff the past few decades. Glad to have found them!
Now I'll add my two cents to the thread. It has become my belief that between (1) products being engineered such that they are unserviceable/less serviceable and (2) made of Chinesium, that younger folks now generally believe that anything over a few years old has little-to-no value as it being at the threshold of death. They've never lived in a world of products which proved otherwise. My 1943 Van Norman mill is still tight and has less than a thousandth runout along the table's travel. My 1980s Honda snow thrower and lawn mower both start on the first pull. My 1995 Dodge Ram with 12V Cummins diesel is strong as an ox. Meanwhile my kids and many friends/associates have a hard time understanding why I hang on to all this old "crap". I will admit to having a hard time getting non-Chinesium repair parts for my truck and I do have to search a bit to buy NOS "Made in USA" HSS milling cutters and end mills on eBay.
Meanwhile the odd $25-$50 consumer item I purchase from Amazon (or other) disappointingly fails in a year or two and everyone's reaction seems to be that it is new normal. Can't say I'm surprised either but it doesn't mean I have to like it. I'll admit to the occasional Harbor Freight purchase but usually for one-time or light-duty use items and make sure to read the reviews!
I can relate. My Honda HR194 rotary mower I bought ~1986 starts on about the first eight inches of pull every time. My neighbor borrowed it Sunday and ask me if I had it enumerated in my will. It really is a dandy machine.
He has a John Deere that is a nice old mower too, he's waiting on a cowl for it.
Last edited by JDHasty; 05-15-2024 at 11:06 AM.
I am not a fan of Chinesium products. We had to sell and service/replace that junk for too long at our shop. I'd rather pay more for better products. But it's hard to find American made products that don't have Chinesium materials in them too.
On a side note, I pulled out one of my dads old STANLEY No. 151 Flat Bottom Adjustable Spoke Shaves to do some door work the other day. It's tarnished as heck but the blade is still insanely sharp after not being used for 30 plus years. And to be fair, I did stone the edge a bit to get the tarnish off of it and get the polished surface back...
Jon.
We quit buying PRC garbage, of ANY kind, 5 years ago; have never regretted it or looked back since.
AFAIC it's giving aid & comfort to the enemy.
Unbeknownst to me, I picked up what was being sold as a genuine leather harness belt at the local thrift store for $2.99 last month. Fast forward 2 whole weeks & I noticed the leather was "kinked" at the notch where my belt was cinched. When I looked inside, the inner face of the "leather" had pulled away, while the "leather" inside came out in clumps & the facing was nothing but a vinyl coating. Just before throwing it into the garbage bin, I peeled off the lining & 'lo & behold, there was the "MADE in [Expletive-deleted] stamp.
Apparently, Dickies & Carhartt now sell /rent their names & their belts are made of this garbage too.
So what did little Jimmy do? He looked on-line, found a 100+ year-old Canadian company [Tandy Leather], ordered 2 saddle leather belt "kits", which were, incredibly, delivered the very next day. I dug out my old military issued black leather boot dye, swabbed it onto 1 belt, while I left the other in its natural state. After it dried, I installed the included keeper & double row buckles between the included & installed snap-rivets, measured where the holes go & used my Dad's 100 year-old Canadian-made leather punch to punch a number of holes after marking where the 1" spaced holes should go & Voila, 2 brand-spanking new real honest-to-goodness harness leather belts, made to order!
I still have all of Dad's old Canadian, British & US made tools from way-back when, from the time he came back from the War [WW2] & used his G.I. Bill benefits to get put through mechanic's school. I just appreciate them a whole lot more nowadays; I'm sure they'll still do the job when I pass them on to my Grand-sons in a few more years.
My Grandfather worked in the transportation department of a large meat packing plant. During the 1930's they were shipping lard to Japan in lead containers meeting thier specific alloy content. My grandfather said he thought it was odd they where so particular about the packaging material. Dec 7th 1941 they figured out what they were doing with it.
After my mother passed away her home was broken into and I lost quite a few tools. I had purchased them over the previous fifty years and the cost was usually a bit higher. MAC, Plumb, Snap On, Diamond Horseshoe Co, Knipex etc. Her insurance coverage replaced the tools and would have paid for brand new direct replacement or equivalent quality tools. When I looked at the replacement cost of those tools I couldn't believe what I was seeing.
I suppose common tools have become boutique items now too. When I bought my wristwatch as a young man, I paid a little more for it than what I could have gotten a perfectly serviceable wristwatch from another brand, but not that much more. These days it would be very hard for a young man who earns his own keep to justify the cost.
Chinese wrenches and socket sets don't crumble under a light load like they did when I was a kid and young man, but they don't fit the fasteners all that well and they are crude in as much as they are thicker and interfere with using them in tight places. I'm not a fan.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |