Since I enjoy all aspects of handloading and shooting, powder coating is just part of the process.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
That just has never been really true. Final as cast size will vary with alloy & casting temp. Sure, use the exact alloy & exact temp, you might get the a bullet that drops the preferred size but not likely. I never saw where Lee molds were regulated with CWW. Most manf use Lyman #2 because its repeatable.
Did you ever actually measure the final bullets? Yes you can certainly get by not sizing, but like everything else in life, it Worls until it doesn't. I size because I load in mixed brass & a fat bullet & thicker case is going to cause an issue. If they are all the same size & there is a problem, I know its the case. One reason I now segregate all my 9mm brass. Thickness is just all over the place & with longer 147gr bullets, I need certain headstamps to make reliable ammo.
Last edited by fredj338; 04-23-2024 at 06:00 PM.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
Yep, we did measure them. .452 and .358 as cast.
I hate loading cast for my 9mm so I just buy plated bullets for it.
You might check out Mihec's 125gr 9mm bullet, or the 147gr. They're NICE. I used to load plated or FMJ mostly with 9mm. But since I bought these molds it's pretty much what I stick with now.
https://www.mp-molds.com/product/mp-...av-bevel-base/
https://www.mp-molds.com/product/9mm...aluminum-mold/
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GOA and FPC have done more in the last decade than your NRA has done in it's entire existence... Support the ones that actually do something for you.
In my oven with PID control I had bullets get sticky in the Star sizing die even up to 20 minutes bake time with the oven preheated. I had to use a lanolin based lube for them to slide through. I increased my bake time to 30 minutes after the oven hits 375degF on the digital readout of the PID. No lube and the PC'd bullets slide right through. Smoke's powder. Thanks for the suggestion. I do what works for me.
I just dont see how baking them longer makes them easier to size unless you are water dropping out of the mold & baking longer softens the alloy.
I water drop out of the PC oven. If I wait more than a couple days to size, they get harder to push thru the die, but never had to use any lube to size.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
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GOA and FPC have done more in the last decade than your NRA has done in it's entire existence... Support the ones that actually do something for you.
I only air cool everything I cast or after baking. I size as soon as they're cool enough to handle after baking. I tried waiting 1 hour and at 2 hours. PC'ed bullets were still a bit sticky going through the die. Some folks were having the same problem and posted they increased bake time to 30 minutes. I thought why not cuz I'm tired of the lubing. First time after 30 minute cook time they sized without lubing after cool to the touch. Sized portion of the bullets look polished and slide through the die like butter. Tried sizing after waiting an hour and there was a little resistance but no slowing of the handle stroke on the star.
I bake @ 800 bullets at a time. After loading the convection oven I wait for it to recover to 375degF before I start the 30 minute bake time just like I used to at 15 and 20 minute bake times.
At one time I thought I might have to too much powder on the bullets. I shook them in the mesh baskets till there was a light coating and still had sticking at less then 30 minute bake time. Tried different relative humidity days. Same deal. Same results regardless of the ambient temps.
All I can say is "30 minutes is my bake time". Good time to rest up between the 1.5-2 hour casting session and the hour to size them.
Last edited by fredj338; 04-27-2024 at 08:53 PM.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
NRA Cert. Inst. Met. Reloading & Basic Pistol
I water drop out of the oven. So even heat treated they are butter smooth going through the sizer. I don't think it's an alloy thing, but a PC thing. Everything sizes smoother PC'd (at least if it's fully cured - I've always been of the opinion you can't over cure PC, as I used to do it professionally).
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GOA and FPC have done more in the last decade than your NRA has done in it's entire existence... Support the ones that actually do something for you.
You can't change the alloy. You can change the hardness of the alloy if you heat treat. You can increase the hardness of most alloys if you water cool from the oven. I air cool so there is no change in hardness from casting to final PC bullet. Basically, if you air cool after casting and PC then you have a fully annealed bullet that will have hardness based on the specific alloy. I use Lyman #2 so that means 16-18bhn.
FWIW, to fully heat treat most lead alloys it takes about 40min at the hardening temperature. If you water drop from a PC oven after 20 min the bullets will not be 'fully' hardened.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |