Accurate #31-200L question for Garand

[oldhenry]

I've been reloading since '59 & began casting shortly thereafter. 99.5% has been with handgun calibers. The exception being .38-40 for a '73 (cast) & the Lee 457-405F for my #3 in .45-70. The .38-40 doesn't count as rifle reloading since it's just a handgun caliber shot in a rifle. The .45-70 is more like a very big handgun caliber.

I'm taking the dive to reload cast boolits in my Garands & 03-A3s. I've gleaned through all info I could find here, but still have questions.

I have a Lachmiller 311 170 RN mold that I bought in '77 & a .309 sizing die for My Lyman #45. I figure seating gas checks would be easier than using my Star. I plan to start with this mold & size at least .001 over whatever I come up with after I slug the bore.

Questions:
1. I see where many are sizing .311 with good results. If so, why slug the bore?
2. I've been using BAC lube from LsStuff with the handgun boolits in the star. I'll need to go to hollow lube for the #45: would carnaba (spelling?) red be better?
3. Some suggest dacron (spelling?) filler for reduced loads using handgun powders. Is there a rule of thumb as to how much to use?
4. I see the 311299 gets high praise. Has anyone used the Accurate #31-200L (a version of that boolit)? The Accurate site states 53 have been sold (it must have something going for it).

Any help is appreciated.
Henry

[Pirate69]

3. Some suggest dacron (spelling?) filler for reduced loads using handgun powders. Is there a rule of thumb as to how much to use?

I think the general rule is to use a filler when using powders with a burn rate Slower than 2400. Not the expert on this. I am sure others will join in.

[oldblinddog]

Use 2400 and no dacron filler.

[oldblinddog]

https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...Rifles-Article

[Adam Helmer]

oldhenry,

You will like cast boolits in your Garand and 03-A3s. The bolt guns are not too picky while the Garand needs enough powder to cycle the action. I use cast boolits in all my many military surplus rifles and have yet to slug a bore. I try a bullet nose first into the muzzle and go from there. My rifles "tell" me what size they prefer.

My best Garand cast is the Lee C312-185 RN, sized .309", ahead of a book-listed charge of IMR4895. My cast M1 load is on the same point of aim/point of impact as Ball and 150 grain J reloads. That Lee boolit is my "Ball Substitute" round for my Garands since surplus Ball ammo was a dollar a round at the last gun show here.

I hope this helps. Be well.

Adam

[oldhenry]

Pirate69, oldblinddog & Adam Helmer,

Many thanks for your response. My post went unanswered for so long that I failed to check my own thread for information. Each one of you have helped me immensely and I am encouraged to take the dive. I think I'll try my Lachmiller 311-170-RN 1st.. I've also decided to size with my Star for now & have PM'ed ammohead for a .311 die & top punch.

I did disassemble, clean & paint my old Lyman 45 & next order will include some hollow tube lubes of BAC & maybe a few of Carnuba Red.

Henry

[RyanJames170]

I’ll answer question #1 with something out of an old reloading manual about 30-40 krag, the nominal bore diameter is .308 how ever bores from .309 to .3125 are commonly found.

I have messured a brand new 30 cal barrel from 2019 at .3095, that M1 might have a bore bigger then you might think.

A example for thought With 303 British the bore dimensions called for .303/.313 how ever manufacturers were allowed to have the land depth upto .317, how ever I have measured a 303 with land dimensions of .300/.311 and one at .303/.3155 the .3155 bore was new never issued and the other one was a gun that had seen hard service..

Bottom line is I am sure 30-06 had some tolerance allowed in new barrels and I am sure during WWII those got opened up a bit, I had a savage 30-30 that savage made the barrels from left over WWII made guns and it measured .311 in the groves was a fun finding a mold for that and sizing to .312

[oldhenry]

I’ll answer question #1 with something out of an old reloading manual about 30-40 krag, the nominal bore diameter is .308 how ever bores from .309 to .3125 are commonly found.

I have messured a brand new 30 cal barrel from 2019 at .3095, that M1 might have a bore bigger then you might think.

A example for thought With 303 British the bore dimensions called for .303/.313 how ever manufacturers were allowed to have the land depth upto .317, how ever I have measured a 303 with land dimensions of .300/.311 and one at .303/.3155 the .3155 bore was new never issued and the other one was a gun that had seen hard service..

Bottom line is I am sure 30-06 had some tolerance allowed in new barrels and I am sure during WWII those got opened up a bit, I had a savage 30-30 that savage made the barrels from left over WWII made guns and it measured .311 in the groves was a fun finding a mold for that and sizing to .312

Ryan,
Thanks for clearing up that question.
Henry

[Newtire]

For the Garand:

Just make sure you size small enough and seat deep enough so that the bolt completely closes on your loaded round and doesn’t hit the rifling before the bolt closes. Figure it out using a few dummy rounds. Otherwise you have a good chance that you’ll get a slam fire due to that heavy floating firing pin flying forward and setting off the round before the bolt completely closes. This would be a disaster, probably wrecking your rifle and injuring/killing maybe you or bystanders. Go easy on the loads, no hot loads or *slow powders. *You may use slower powders within limits (so as to not put undue strain on the operating rod, possibly bending or somehow damaging it). There is plenty of info out there on this stuff so do some research. The folks in here with lots of experience would probably be the ones to rely on for your information since this site IMHO has the best info available on this sort of thing. I know that I have learned a lot of stuff from this helpful bunch. I have used lots of powder coated loads using slower powders such as the various 4350’s, Win. 760, AA2700, Shooter’s World “Precision Rifle” and Varget as well as the old “standby” powders such as IMR 4895 and H4895, all with a 1/2 to a full grain tuft of Dacron tamped down onto the powder. I have not used anything like 4831 or slower but I understand that some folks say they have. As far as primers go, I have only used Winchester large non-magnum primers and CCI large rifle primers since I can’t get my hands on any #34 military primers. I understand that Federal primers have too soft of a cup and might increase your chance of a slam fire so won’t use those. That’s about all I can tell you about primers. Using these guidelines, you should be OK. As far as being able to operate the action, work your way up from the bottom until you get good function. Keep the chamber clean and grease all the points you are supposed to. I use automotive disc brake caliper grease (grease-NOT the anti squeal stuff for the back of the pads). So, I’ve gone on long enough (as is my habit!) on the Garand.

For the bolt action rifles out there: I have used 2400, RX-7, 4759 and various fast pistol powders such as Unique and the like. Be careful and have lots of fun.