Thank you guys.
Now I can see why you can’t use potassium chlorite to make BP to make the powder faster.
When I made fireworks.
I use to use the PC instead of Kn03 to boost the powder like in firecrackers
Last edited by LAGS; 04-17-2024 at 02:18 PM.
Potassium Chlorate and Sulfur not only explode but are very friction sensitive. Its why H48 even works.
But you can't make Gunpowder that way. They learned that as far back as 1794.
I still love that one on the left. Everyone around Berthollet is dead (Over 1000 people) and he's just standing there totally unharmed wondering what happened.
Now you CAN use Potassium Perchlorate, but for 4 times the cost. Pyrodex contains it, so apparently there is some gain for using it.
SASS #114019 --- WRDR790/N6RVT depending on the radio --- WRDR790 on Discord too
So starch and Sugar are essentially interchangeable in these compositions?
I've seen Sannadex formulas using Nitrate, and ones using Chlorate. These are every different chemicals, someone is dangerously wrong. On the site where it said Nitrate, it also gave the formula for regular Black Powder as 75-25-5, so I tend to think they are wrong and you are right in this case. They also said you cook Sannadex dry. It looked like something out of Anarchists Cookbook - which intentionally had dangerously wrong formulas in it.
Every reference to it I can find show it being used in centerfire cartridge rifles and getting around 2000+ FPS. If it is indeed Chlorate, and it seems to be, it is not safe to use in a black powder only firearm. But I'm guessing that won't matter to most of the readers here as you were not planning to use any of these that way anyhow.
I have now seen SEVEN different formulas for Crimson powder, with three of them being on the same page. And disturbingly - all are called Crimson Powder.
I now have a proven formula for Black Powder, a proven formula for Crimson Powder and a proven formula for H48. At this point I am going to stop experimenting and just watch.
SASS #114019 --- WRDR790/N6RVT depending on the radio --- WRDR790 on Discord too
Quanto mais clorato ou perclorato, mais forte será o pó.
Mustang
"In the beginning... the patriot is a scarce man, and brave and hated and scorned. When his cause succeeds, the timid join him, for then it costs nothing to be a patriot." - Mark Twain.
I'm sorry, this time the message was in my language. Thank you Mustang, for the translation.
Maybe its just me or I made a bad batch, but the manganese powder isn't working for me.
In my .45 inline it failed to ignite multiple times - then finally did, moving the ball about 4" down the barrel.
I loaded 25 rounds of .38 consisting of 1cc of 'Gray" with 2 grains of W244 on top of it. Not only wildly inaccurate, in FOUR of those the smokeless went off - and the Gray STILL didn't ignite. I got a pop and saw the bullet hit the dirt behind the target, but no appreciable smoke.
After I got home I poured one of the 60 grain charge tubes on a paper plate and lit it. Took over three seconds to burn. Reminded me of when I tried to make Black Powder using activated charcoal. This stuff burns slowly and HOT, like I made low grade thermite.
Last edited by 2TM101; 04-20-2024 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Manganese don't work
SASS #114019 --- WRDR790/N6RVT depending on the radio --- WRDR790 on Discord too
Bump
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Did you mill and corn this or use the cooking method? I milled then corned/screened the (Gray) with the Manganese as I also did with the Crimson with the Iron Oxide.
I found no difficulty in ignition. I used one of my .36 cal. revolvers for the tests and used my home made caps for the ignition.
73 de n0ubx, Rick
NRA Benefactor Life Member/VFW Life Member
I clearly did something wrong, there is no other explanation for the results being this different.
In another unexplained observation, the manganese powder, and my starch powder, are remaining free flowing granules, but my crimson powder is "Agglomerating" (new word for me). Others have said the golden powder also does this.
Easy enough to take a spoon and break it back up - at least when its in a tub. But if that is happening inside cartridges loaded with it I can't fix it or even know its happening. So now its pretty much limited to muzzleloader use. MIGHT be moisture related but I have no way to dry it out once its already powder.
SASS #114019 --- WRDR790/N6RVT depending on the radio --- WRDR790 on Discord too
Yes... some mixtures become more or less hygroscopic, dry powder has to be well packed, preferably with silica. I always prefer to make small batches to use within a month at most. I still have a leftover batch of Golden powder that is over a year old, stored in a plastic container, it is still grainy, not as much as when I made it, but perfectly usable. I believe that loaded brass cases should still keep the powder intact.
I found a place that makes re-usable silica gel packs. News to me that this even existed, apparently you pop them in a microwave on defrost for about 10 minutes and it steams all the collected moisture out of them.
I had originally put my homemade powder in old smokeless powder cans. Black powder was fine, but some of these alternates clumped up ("Agglomerated"). Not badly, hit the can a few times and it went back to powder. I poured it all out into open top cottage cheese tubs and it did it again. When my Silica Gel packs come I'll put several in each tub and seal them up and see if that works.
I had loaded a number of duplex .38 rounds and in 4 out of 22 rounds the homemade powder did not ignite even when the smokeless powder did - and it was on top. Just got a pop, about 200 fps and no significant smoke. What I did see may have just been the powder blowing out of the gun.
I know how to make improvised munitions - seriously potent ones actually. But learning how to make this low powered stuff that can make a black powder gun work without damaging it is an art form I'm still mastering.
SASS #114019 --- WRDR790/N6RVT depending on the radio --- WRDR790 on Discord too
With all the chatter about moisture and these powders being fairly hygroscopic, I checked all the leftovers from my batches that I had made right at 2 months ago. Stored in plastic medicine bottles for the most part and various other plastic bottles with sealing tops, I really do not see anything indicating that they have taken up any moisture to speak of. Even the fines are still plenty dry enough to pour through a fine funnel.
I checked on the Golden, Crimson, and the Gray w/Magnesium and all are still plenty loose & dry. They are stored in my basement reloading/hobby room where it is climate controlled, but there are plenty of days where the humidity has exceeded 60% or more. Sealed containers seem to be plenty good enough for me.
Last edited by HamGunner; 04-25-2024 at 10:05 PM.
73 de n0ubx, Rick
NRA Benefactor Life Member/VFW Life Member
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |