rintinglen, some of the best posts out of those links are by Steelslaver and Hondo44. Both have described DIY conversions pretty well.
Froggie
rintinglen, some of the best posts out of those links are by Steelslaver and Hondo44. Both have described DIY conversions pretty well.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
Hey there, Froggie.
I read through them and inspired by the apparently effortless success they mention, I broke out a Clymer Finishing Reamer I had purchased a while back and with plenty of oil, I have commenced the transformation. Now I am not calling anybody a liar, but the fellow who says he did his in 20 minutes is much better at this than I am, or else his watch runs awfully slow. So far, I finished 5 chambers in a splinter less than 2 hours, stopping frequently to clean out chips and check fit. I am using a fired case as a "go" gauge. We shall see what we shall see, but so far, all seems well and no serious problems have poked up out of their lairs to bedevil this erstwhile shade tree, gun smith. ( I have graduated to a work bench.)
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
Congrats on finding the "gumption" to move forward.
I would consider it if I wanted to invest in buying 32 H&R brass and if I did not have the SP-101 327.
For now, I will stay under QL predicted SAAMI MAP for 32 long. I know 32 long brass can handle more than SAAMI pressure, but I have chosen to never load common ammo over headstamp pressure for anything other than immediate use load development type stuff. If I really ever get the urge for more power, I may trim down a dozen 327 brass to 32 Long length and load some "plus p" 32s. When I bought my 327 Brass from Starline in 2017, it was only available in a 500 count package so I have enough to spare.
I left the QL settings at default. Given these are only predictions, not tested data, I tend to only show results up to the first one or two that the software flags as near max.
I checked & you are correct for current ratings. Wow. At first glance it makes no sense for the short to be rated to higher than the long when it is common practice to say that it is ok to shoot shorts in a long gun. This may reflect that there is actually a difference in how SAAMI measures pressure vs. expected actual peak chamber pressure.
The QL database did not have the correct SAAMI MAP values and I also saw that the database has a 32 long wadcutter with a CIP rating of 22481 psi. I will go back and edit the database to have correct SAAMI MAP values for short & long.
Last edited by P Flados; 03-04-2024 at 09:59 AM.
But, I think that Larry Gibson had it right when he said that SAAMI is simply bending to the wishes of the Target shooters of the 32S&W Long... They stay well down for those Hollow base wadcutters, that most of 'em shoot..Lowering the PSI/CUP of the entire Cartridge, from what it once was... which was Closer to the 32S&W (no Long), which is lame due to the fairly weak break open revolvers chambered for it.... Look to the 32ACP for ballistics for a Cartridge and Firearm, meant to be Used!!!
Note there is a reason that the H&R Magnum is kinda Weak at SAAMI...But, I won't go into that!!!!
Course...I still kinda feel like the K frame has somethi ng to do with the "change" in 357 Magnum!!! to which ballisticians fought back with "Ruger or Contender Only" Loadings!!!!
Well, for what it is worth, I have a Ruger 327 SP101 4 inch, but I prefer the action on this Smith, and as a carry gun, I think the lighter weight makes sense. Plus, my granddaughter thinks the Ruger is hers.
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racepres, you will observe that neither on this forum nor others where the 32s are being discussed will I ever give my own high end charges publicly. There are too many variables in what’s out there in the reloading world, and too many bold reloaders willing to “rush in where angels fear to tread.”
I will say though that I agree that SAAMI is equally or even more hesitant to give out over enthusiastic load data for the thirty two only to have it end up in a century old “Saturday Night Special” and go off like a grenade.
That said, all of my 32 shooting starts in a post War I frame and goes later, with any “serious” ammo going into a K frame Smith custom or a Blackhawk before any lesser guns. Once I have an idea of what a specific load with my specific guns, then I can know where I can put them and feel confident they will be safe. That’s my personal strategy but each of you reading this have to satisfy your own ideals of what constitutes safe loading.
Just some thoughts to chew on.
Green Frog
"It aint easy being green!"
And Chew I shall Froggie... Sensible stuff right there! Taking that into consideration, when I do experiment. I shall begin in the Ruger!!
In line with the sage advice of the Green One, I no longer stock pile "heavy" loaded ammo that might end up in a gun that can't handle the pressure. Visions of mortality have affected my loading practices. I am 70, and the guy with the scythe at the front of the line is getting close to me. I don't want a 38-44 to end up in my 1914 Police Positive, nor a 32 H&R level load in a 32 made when Teddy Roosevelt was in office when I am gone.
Nowadays, I use Magnum brass for Magnum loads, and seldom exceed published maximums to protect my children or grand children from a potential serious accident should I not be here to supervise. If I feel the need for speed, I load only a box or two and shoot them up promptly. I don't leave them in the pile where they might end up in something they weren't intended for. YMMV
Which in convoluted fashion brings me to my just-finished conversion of my S&W 30-1, which is a stronger gun than my I-frames, and will allow me to use J-frame Loads from Brian Pearce's work in his pet loads column. It is available online and was in the 2018 October issue. I have down loaded it and printed it out. Now if I can just find that box of 32 H&R's I loaded up a few years back....
Last edited by rintinglen; 03-05-2024 at 09:41 PM.
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To rintinglen: Amen and amen brother.
To racepres: Glad to provide you a “meal”. It sounds like we were already within a page or two of each other in the same book.
To all: Our discussions here are mainly to exchange information between like minded folks. Remember, too much caution when reloading is not a thing! Safety first. Although we frequently mention smaller guns and older guns, bigger and stronger is always a good thing in guns when doing ammo testing. I refer to my Ruger Blackhawk Stainless 327 FM Eight Shooter as my “Stud Hoss” as well as my “Test Mule”. As a matter of fact, I used it for the first loadings in 32 S&W (short) I loaded with an old set of S&W-made tools for an article. One can never be too careful
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
In that Vein...I have never had a Boolit simply drop out of the end of the barrel...But, I swear I was close on this one!!
Switched to the H&R (solid frame) and also to S&W brass. (Not S&WLong)
45 gr round ball over 1.0 gr of Nitro100NF, produced 427fps, smoked cases, and some unburned powder.
The same 1.0 gr of N100NF (that NF is Important I find) under a 93 LRN produced 536 FPS...yet upping to 1.2 produced less velocity, and More Unburned powder, with serious Soot?? Odd what...I will chalk it up to Erratic. Because I am going to stay at S&W brass, 93gr LRN's and 1.5 gr of N100NF... clean as a whistle, and 625 fps..,.right about where I want to be with this!!!
Well, I can not complain at all about the conversion of my 30-1. I was able to track down a partial box of ammo that I had loaded with MP 314-640 100 grain HPs and 3.7 grains of WW231. I was pleased with the results, despite the narrow sights and those useless, splinter grips. The first one was spread vertically, due to my inability to get a good, consistent grip, but I grabbed the gun like I was strangling a rattlesnake and got two nice, round ~2" groups at 50 ft. With a rest and a better fitting handle, I see good things happening. I need to find a picture. And more ammo!
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Rintinglen, I found a discontinued grip from Mustang you might want to look for. It was a smooth, finger groove combat style grip that completely enclosed the grip frame so it could work with SB or RD configuration. It seemed to have enough volume to hold onto but was still in scale with the gun. I am currently using a similar grip from Charles Daly on my 631, which of course is a stainless version of your 30-1 only with adjustable sights. Keep looking… there are a few oversized grips out there that provide a little more heft without becoming too bulky.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
I have a couple of those for my colt D-frames, but I just ordered a set of the Hogue regular, not bantam grips. I used to live about 20 minutes from the Mustang Grip Factory and I have used a number of those over the years. Here's a picture of my old Colt Police Positive wearing a set. What irks me is that I know I bought a set of G-10 grips about 9 years ago, but where they are today I can't say. Note to self--NEVER MOVE.
This is what I ordered--I really like these grips for shooting. This gun won my EDC shoot-off in my summer project a year or two ago. It will shoot head shots at 50 yards.
Last edited by rintinglen; 03-07-2024 at 12:21 PM.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
My friend Dale53 took the factory FGSC grips off of his 631 and put grips by Goodyear on. I couldn’t find a set of the originals, so I put those Charles Daly grips on.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
Another option is a Tyler T-grip or a reasonable facsimile of it. I made a functional copy out of walnut for my little transitional pre Model 30 snubbie.
One of these years I'll get around to finishing it, i.e. make it look pretty.
Robert
The splinter Magna grips on the J and I frame guns are just too small for my hands, even with the Tyler T attached. It helps, but still doesn't cut the mustard for me. What is odd is that the Hogue Bantams and the Old Uncle Mike's Boot Grips work ok for me. I guess that's why shoes come in different sizes.
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When I recently bought my Smith M631 I replaced the factory grips ( a finger groove combat type ) with a set of S&W factory target grips for J-frames of which I had a spare pair of square-butt and round-butt ones. I do not care for any finger groove stocks but I probably am in the minority on them ( ? ). Pachmayr Compact Professional Grips are also a favorite of mine on RB J-frames. Yeah, they are rubber which I do not care for but they really fill things out while maintaining a small size. YMMV.
New post in the Retinue group.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |