I have also used Remedy mixed with kerosene or diesel fuel in a 1 to 3 ratio. Wet the base of the trunk up about 18 inches and let it soak in. It works well but is not nearly as cheap a generic Roundup applied as i mentioned above.
I have also used Remedy mixed with kerosene or diesel fuel in a 1 to 3 ratio. Wet the base of the trunk up about 18 inches and let it soak in. It works well but is not nearly as cheap a generic Roundup applied as i mentioned above.
I’m a little confused, why are you trying to kill it and then cut it down? Dead trees have a better chance of coming down in a storm, or just coming down period! Just cut it down! If you have your heart set on killing it first all you have to do is ring the tree! The only part of the tree that is actually alive is the cambium layer. The layer directly underneath the bark so if you cut the cambium layer which contains the vascular system of a tree you will kill the tree! Cut a two or 3 inch strip around the whole tree and peel away the bark in the underlying material (you only have to go about a half inch deep) around the whole tree and remove the material within that strip and you cut the vascular system for the tree in essence killing the tree! No chemicals needed! Drilling a hole in a tree and pouring chemicals into it is doing nothing but pouring your money away is that part of the tree is already dead! But like I said the smart thing to do is just cut the tree down! How big is this tree anyway? Oh and by the way I’m a retired arborist so I’m not just giving speculation I actually know what I’m talking about. Good luck in whatever you decide.
Long, Wide, Deep, and Without Hesitation!
It’s a pear tree. I’m sure most are dwarf so I am betting the base can’t be 8” to a foot in diameter. All my fruit tree bases are super small. Even the apple tree that have been around for 40 plus years. Not even coffee can diameter. So I’m guess the OP’s tree is pretty small. If not I’m jealous. Two seconds with a chainsaw or a half a minute with a handsaw and I’m sure it would be on the ground.
Just cut it down! Then have fun digging out the roots. People plant those and crêpe myrtles next to foundations only to find they suck the h2o from under the slab. Then complain when the foundation needs fixin.
Whatever!
Judging by your words, you have two problems:
- The first problem, and the smallest one, is that a tree grows too close to your house and, apparently, this tree can cause damage to your house;
- The second problem, and the biggest one, is your better half, who doesn’t see the first problem.
You can, of course, offer you a fantastic plan - try to convince a woman to cut down a tree and save your house, but I don’t really believe in fairy tales. I personally did not succeed and the summer house on my site is being destroyed under the influence of the root system of a pine tree located close to the house.
In chess, a situation similar to yours is called zugzwang and you can only sympathize with it. A woman is the best thing that fate can give a man in life, but at times, you really want to give this gift back.
Yes, and another piece of advice: be careful with chemicals - after some time it may turn out that they are not at all as safe as the manufacturer stated and you have poisoned your land with your own hands. And if you grow something on your land and then eat it, it can have consequences for you and your family.
Last edited by Alex_4x4; 03-02-2024 at 03:38 PM.
Viam supervadet vadens.
Spike is a herbicide in pellet form, with a clay base that is spread on top of the ground under the canopy of the tree. Rain melts the spike and takes it to the roots and kill them. I don't know if you can still buy it or not. A double hand full will kill the biggest trees. Takes a while for it to work. Kills from the roots up. CrossBow or Remedy will also work. Remedy was one application but usually took two of Crossbow. Kill stumps by spraying or painting it on with a brush. Just googled spike and it is still available. Not cheap.
Last edited by owejia; 03-02-2024 at 03:33 PM.
I'd rather cut a live tree down, instead of cutting a log soaked in Roundup, I try to avoid Roundup now that they figure there is a chance of it causing non-Hodgkin lymphoma.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
You can always soak something around the stump as long as you never want to grow something there anymore or poison any pets. Imo your just wasting time and money dumping stuff on the tree. Spend a couple minutes and cut down and be done with it. I'm sure someone who Smokes mean would jump on the chance to come get it.
In my experience Bradford Pears are notorious for sprouting from the lower trunk and surface roots. To get glyphosate into the roots, cut the tree within a few inches of the ground and immediately paint the stump generously with 41% glyphosate; don't use the weaker solutions available in the big stores. I use the generic from Tractor Supply. It was about $16 per quart last spring at my store. Using this method I have killed dozens of small trees of several species, as well as ornamentals and the notorious privet hedge. I even killed kudzu tubers using this method once I found that vine going into the ground that was about 3-4" diameter. The stump must be treated immediately after cutting - do not wait till the next day or days later.
I've only needed to treat small stumps once, but to be sure it might not hurt to leave a stump a few inches high on the first cut and then go back a few days later and repeat the procedure closer to the ground with your final cut. A dendrologist friend tells me that tree roots are active in normal winter temperatures in the southeast as long a the ground isn't frozen or the weather crazy cold like we had a few weeks ago. I have used the above method on woody plants that were leafed out, as well as this time of year before they leaf.
if your drilling holes to put in poison use potassium nitrate, yup, the same stuff you use to make black powder
He's scared of his wife so he's trying to kill it. Just man up and cut it down. I had three river birch that were 6 feet from my garage the PO had planted. I was here 6 years before finally getting them cut down. Had already heaved the two sidewalks coming to the house. Should Never have been planted that close. 20 feet is really too close, 6 feet is stupid. They had gotten to 10 to 12 inch diameter. So glad they are gone.
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Velpar
You should just cut it down and take your lumps.
You are going to be in a lot more trouble once your wife finds out you murdered the tree and tried to hide it from her.
Unless she is a total idiot, she WILL find out.
Tordon RTU in the hole. An ounce or so.
Cut it down and then treat the stump with a mix of water and triclopyr mixed 50/50. Treat the stump as soon as you cut it down and it will suck the triclopyr into the roots killing it for good..
I had a crêpe myrtle tree I needed to kill before cutting down because I wanted the roots dead. If not, they will grow back. The trunks were a little bigger than my thumb is around. I cut them off with lopping shears and then used a sponge to soak the end of each trunk with Round-Up concentrate. It took repeated applications over a year of cutting the trunk about six inches lower and reapplying the Round-Up, but it eventually worked.
You told her it was too close. If she doesn't understand those dangers, that's not your concern. Cut the tree down and go about your business.
I got a notice from the council to eradicate vines by the next door fence ...........the vines are a climbing bean ,and very hard to kill...........anyhoo,I hit them with a mix including Tordon /Roundup/Associate ..........killed the vines (temporarily) and also killed some big trees that have council protected status........I reckon I overdid it.........So far the council havent found out.
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