I read about it here on CB a few years ago.
I’ll try SP in LP but they may sit proud in LP pockets.
Someday I’ll start taking notes. A few years ago would have been a good time to start….
Up date; I snuck out and tried a Fiocchi SPP in a LR primer body. It seated a little proud but the bolt closed with a firm push. I laid a paper towel over an empty coffee container and fired into that. Worked in the Stevens 200 .243 like a normal primer.
SO- I deprimed a .45 acp case, gutted and punched it, and seated it in the .243 case with the SPP in the LPP body. This time the primer was flush and the bolt closed easily.
Fire Two was successful as well!
I think I’ll load a few as regular loads and see what’s what…..
And take notes.
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Last edited by Texas by God; 02-23-2024 at 10:48 PM.
TbG, I commend and appreciate your efforts.
So if I understand, an SPP in a LR cup worked without issue priming a 243 rifle case.
And an SPP in a LPP cup also worked without issue in a 243 rifle case.
My big if is: will a SPP in a LPP cup work (ie. Not be too long) in a LPP pistol cartridge like a 45 LC. I’m going to have to try that combo. Don’t know about anyone else but with the popularity of 9mm, 380 & 38 special, the current shortage of SPPs is my big concern. Your experiments prove we can get by without LPPs. Other than reloading primers there aren’t a lot of options for a SPP shortage.
And again, I must commend you for your efforts.
Ive read of fellas doing same /similar to get around the berdan primer thing....
refound this thread as just read the 30/40 Krag answer elsewhere.....and you fellas were already all over it LOL.
They sit a hair proud, I dropped the 1911 slide and fired the primers one at a time. All went bang.
SPP inside LPP body.
I’ll try loaded rounds after I cast some bullets- I couldn’t find ONE that wasn’t loaded already!
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The 30-40 Krag was the beginning of the smokeless powder cartridges. Also known as the "30 Army" and "30 U.S".
The 30-40 Krag was used from 1892 until 1903, when it was replaced by the 30-03 ("30-45").....then replaced by the 30-06 in 1906 ("30 Gov't 06")...and used into the 1970's
If the modified primers are sitting proud, just use your adjustable primer pocket uniforming tool to take a few thou out.
You'll probably want to keep those cases segregated.
All for science, of course!
Scrounging for pb...
USMC 0351
These are my oldest Pre 30-40 Krag cartridges.
And drift wise;
I have tried the SPP(Fiocchi)inside the LPP cups in a Savage 110 .243 and only one out of three fired.
In the H&R Topper 44-40, 3 of 3 fired as normal.
In the Mauser 93 30-30, 3 of 3 fired with a slight hangfire.
Perhaps the last two guns have more firing pin travel.
I’m filing this under things that I’d Rather Not have to do. But glad to know how.
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The 06 brass all has a flat base, the Kraig cases are all beveled base for the extractor dsign on the Kraig rifles.
There is or was a 30 American round, it was designed by Richard Mertz of MOA in the 1980s, is a 7.62x39, with a .308 barrel and a 40 degree shoulder, blown out body with minimum taper. Round was designed to be used in the MOA single shot platform. Today it would be similar to the 30 Grendel or Bill's 30 ARc round.
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Since the thread about Krag brass drifted off into the arena of primers, I should try to merge the two subjects back together by stating that any Krag cartridges marked 30 Army (or something close to 30 Govt, etc.) were made back in the days of corrosive primers. If the case was fired and then reloaded, mercury could have made that brass brittle over the decades that it has been sitting. Even if "new" that cartridge will probably still have a corrosive primer. Either way, the cartridge in question would make a better collector item than a shooter.
How about using a large "pistol" primer cup? They are thinner, which would help with the firing pin strike, AND they are shorter than the large rifle primer cup. This would solve the issue with the primer sitting "proud" with the SPP when seated.
If a 41 won't stop it, I wouldn't bet my life on a 44.
A dozen years ago I learned a similar trick to convert Berdan-primed 7.5x55 Swiss to boxer priming. Chuck the case in a lathe and carefully drill into the fired primer with a 1/8 center drill, (NOT a combined drill/countersink) until all of the crown of the Berdan primer is gone. Then drill a central flash hole. Swage the remaining wall of the primer with a primer pocket swage. A small rifle primer will now press in just dandy. A dozen cases thus converted were fired maybe 6 times with heavy cast bullet loads with no trouble, just to prove the principle. (I had 100 Boxer-prime Norma in stock, so didn't need to do more.)
Same procedure should work to convert Large boxer primers to small, (without having to drill the flash hole, of course)..
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |