I watched you video on the NOE seating tool. Am I wrong to seat the check prior to powder coating? I did it for the first time with some 358156 bullets.
hc18flyer
I watched you video on the NOE seating tool. Am I wrong to seat the check prior to powder coating? I did it for the first time with some 358156 bullets.
hc18flyer
NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw
CW- Thanks for the info! Just starting to mix pc and gas checks. hc18flyer
I have, for a long time, used a carriage bolt head to flare the checks. Perhaps not the fastest way to do it, but serves me well.
Im having poor results with 223 powder coated , I may go to gas checking then powder coat ?
I'm looking to order that seating tool but the website is not very clear on what is needed. Is it just that kit or is it caliber specific?
As mentioned annealing the copper checks will often help, also maybe a different brand of check (I really like the ones from Sage). I have a simple method that seems to work well for getting them square using the Lee die. I use a Rock Chucker press, set the gas checked bullet on the stem, raise it up to where it meets resistance from the sizer, then I smack the lever fairly hard and fast to push it through. YMMV
I use the Lee APP for sizing and checking but for bullets that cast really close to the desired size, there's not enough resistance to seat the check before it pushes through the sizer. I had been putting a piece of flat bar across the sizer die and using the sizer ram to seat the die but the only works with bullets that have a flat enough nose to stand on their end. Maybe drilling a hole in my flat bar to use a nose punch to fit a pointed projectile would be useful to gas check those. I did order the NOE kit and the nose punch bushing so we'll see how that works.
The kit is NOT Caliber specific. You need top Punches that are specific and proper Caliber GC's and then caliber specfic bushines to size bullets, but not the tool.
Its called the NOE Bushing Push Through Size Die
Kit comes with 8 parts
A- Die Body
B1- Spacer sleeve Small
B2- Spacer sleeve Med
B3- Spacer sleeve Large
C- Nose Size Top Punch Holder
D- Base First Top Punch Holder
E- Nose First Bullet Ram
F- Size Bushing
NRA Life member • REMEMBER, FREEDOM IS NOT FREE its being paid for in BLOOD.
Come visit my RUMBLE & uTube page's !!
https://www.RUMBLE.com/user/Cwlongshot
https://youtube.com/channel/UCBOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw
I've been using the Lee Breech Lock sizing kit on the APP press and have a bunch of thoae bushings. Will the NOE sizing kit work with that kit or does it replace it? And is it worth switching to the NOE? I see the bushings are cheaper but I already have all the sizes that I currently use.
The gas check seater is a different tool than the sizer kit. Here is one. As mentioned, you need a proper top punch to make it work.
Due to the price of primers, warning shots will no longer be given!
I got my NOE gas check seating tool in the mail. It's my first NOE purchase but won't be my last. Very fast shipping and extremely nice machining. Hope to get to use it soon but house painting may take precedence this week. I've put it off as long as the wife would let me. I sure do hate painting.
I experienced this issue with sage checks for non gas checked castboolits. My solution was to turn the boolit around and enter the check in the die first, worked for me. Also evenly flatted slightly pointed round nose boolits that I feel happier with in the magazine of my 94.
I was trying to apply the check to a 358156 bullet after I had PC'd it. I even tried to do 2 coats, thinking it would give a little more resistance. I didn't think to try to check the as-cast bullet prior to powder coating like hc18flyer did. Maybe that would have worked. I'll try the NOE seater with my PC'd 358156 bullets since I already have a couple hundred of them coated. Then I'll cast some more and check them before coating and making the gas check shank larger.
I suppose that I could use them PC'd and no check in 38 special loads. I don't know that they won't shoot just fine in my 357 loads with just powder coating and no check in my Rossi 16" since the powder will protect the bullet base somewhat. What do you all think about that idea?
And INGarand, I apologize for totally hijacking your thread. I should have started my own thread instead of piggybacking yours.
Firesubie, absolutely no problem, I enjoyed the information!
So, I am liking the NOE gas check seater. It works very well on gas check that are hard to snap on by hand. Since I had a large number of bullets already powder-coated that needed gas checked, I was needing a solution for the ones with a shank too big for the normal copper checks due to the powder coating. I bought some aluminum checks and some plain base checks. I was thinking the thinner material would give more room for a larger shank and that worked for me. And I experimented with the plain base checks on a gas check design bullets and that worked as well but is a total pain to apply as they need to go through sizer first, which is a little harder with the Lee APP since it is upside down from the normal push through Lee dies.
The NOE gas check seater popped those gas checks on easily. It does add another step but I'm not into mass production so I just take my time and pop those suckers right on there. I'm thinking about the NOE sizing kit that CW mentioned because they have a much better selection of sizes than the Lee Breech Lock sizing kit.
Hmmm, I've never had too much issue. I just set the cast slug half way straight on the check and run it through a push through sizer. The resistance going through the sizer squares up the check and seats them. Most are straight, some are not. I cannot tell any difference on target at 100 yards. I figured the shove on the base when the round goes off takes care of anything misaligned.
These are all revolver rounds though.
To be honest, I've never experimented with crooked gas checks versus straight. I just always culled the crooked ones. But it does make sense that 20,000 psi on the base would push that check on a little more if it was not fully seated straight.
When I fired poorly seated gas checks, they did not get pushed on when fired. They got caved in, inside out. Then the caved in gas checks fell off shortly after the bullet left the muzzle.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |