I have always just hit them with brake cleaner or acetone. Let them dry and start casting. Some take 100 throws some take 10.
I have always just hit them with brake cleaner or acetone. Let them dry and start casting. Some take 100 throws some take 10.
i have about 30+ molds. they are stored in a 50 cal ammo can;wrapped in vpi paper ; no oil or preseratives of any kind. they are as good as new. most have been in the can for 30 years with no use. i belive it is the combination of both the sealed can and vpi paper.
I use Brake Cleaner or Electrical Contact Cleaner but warm water, Dawn and an old tooth brush should work. When finished casting I spray mine with whatever type spray I happen to be using at the time for my guns.
Just received a new lee 2 cav. mold.
carb cleaner toothbrush
spray clean
preheat on hotplate
first cast lube spru cutter with needle oiler q tip with bullets in mold
drop bullets lube alignment pins
3rd or 4th cast perfect bullets
for brass molds I spray clean then heat cycle a few times before first cast
When through I spray with Kroil store, next use repeat cleaning
Dan
I clean new molds with acetone and lube pivot points and pins with synthetic 2 cycle oil very lightly. When finished and cooling down I’ll spray with LPS-3 which leaves a waxy coating for years with no rust. It is harder to clean off when time to go again.
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government..... When the people fear their government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
I use dawn dish soap and a toothbrush for first cleaning, then spray entire mould with carb cleaner, then dawn and hot water, set mould on side of lead pot to dry. Storage in vci paper with dessicant packs. Have never had a rust problem.
NRA Life 1992
My avatar is almost a dead ringer for my little buddy Chico. Six pounds of mean that thought he was a Pit Bull. Miss that little guy.
I clean the cavities with a couple of applications of denatured alcohol on a Q-tip and wipe the outside of the blocks and both sides of the sprue plate with the Q-tip or a small cloth saturated with denatured alcohol. I wipe out the cavities and the rest of the blocks with Kroil when I put it away. They're stored in a climate controlled room so don't need any heavy-duty rust preventative.
I use mineral oil on dry flies too…
I've always used 91% isopropyl alcohol and a q tip, never had a problem.
isopropyl 91 octane and carb cleaner with stiff tooth brush, an old cotton tee shirt and q tips worked for me on the last mold I got from mp. im not sure what kind of cutting fluid miha is using but it took about 3 scrubbings to get it all off and get the mold clean. then fill with hot lead , empty and repeat""""""""
I spray down all molds with Ballistol after use, so I clean them as if they were new each time I use them. Spray down with brake cleaner then a wash with dish soap and a hot rinse. That works for me. However, running a new mold through the dishwasher sounds interesting.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |