What would you recommend to remove material? A small file or Emery cloth held against that area while spinning in the drill press perhaps?
If you care about consistency, you can place a shim between shellholder and die in order to take out the slight bit of variation you can get from flex when you size with a floating die. You can also buy shellholders that are plus or minus x thousandths.
But full depth and size expander will be the most consistent way to prep the brass and remove the coke bottle effect, if you can solve the sticking issue. Different headstamps will have different thicknesses at the base of the bullet. Proper expanding takes care of it the best.
Edit: oh, that shellholder and shim thing would only work for a single stage!
Last edited by gloob; 12-05-2023 at 06:19 PM.
I explained the undercut process I used in a previous post in this thread:
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5652818
jmo,
.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |