These have become popular for cutting brass down when performing caliber conversions.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-m...saw-62136.html
These have become popular for cutting brass down when performing caliber conversions.
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-m...saw-62136.html
These men and their hypnotized followers call this a new order. It is not new. It is not order.
Add me to the HF mini chop saw group.
I have the little chop saw, but honestly, 90% of the time I just use the RCBS Trim Pro, motorized trimmer with a 3 way cutter. Just stick the case in, spring loaded, and it cuts and turns until perfectly done. I trim and run the cases in sequence as they come off the trimmer.
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Without the Jig you only have half the tool, and a potential for removing parts of fingers.
I bought one of the inexpensive ebay jigs for converting .223rem brass to .300BO brass. I always cut them a little long and after sizing trimmed to correct depth with a calibre specific trimmer or the lyman chamfering tool.
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I have a Cape gun in 16 gauge x 12.7x44R and they do require a lot of trimming from 50 Alaskan but I bought a used RCBS Power Trimmer at a local gun show and it was worth every penny. Put the 50 Alaskan in and it comes out a 12.7x44R. A couple of twists with a deburring tool and you are home free. One of the single best buys I made in a long time and it will work for almost everything. Very accurate trim length case to case too. Thanks, Squid Boy
I use a mini lathe.
I have a lathe in the shop to make 300 Black out
use the tail stock with a live center to index the 223 brass
does a decent job.
run them threw a size die then trim to length on a RCBS case trimmer + drill to turn them
I never had good results with tubing cutters. As others have said, they tend to sprial, and even when they don't, they still leave a large rolled burr.
A jeweler saw and steady hand gets me close enough to finish with a manual case trimmer. For larger volumes, I use a lathe.
If you want to get a jig for the mini chop saw just use a case length gauge for the caliber intended. It will hold your case just right. Otherwise, make your own from a sized case and pour casting material (polyurethane) around it within a square mold. Be sure to lube the case well before pouring the casting material.
A fellow on Ebay will make jigs for the Harbor Freight chop saw.
Search "saw case trimmer"
Or see:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/30412585354...AAAOSwi8ZgyAwJ
Regards,
Gary
Mini chop saw, but I use the case holder from the Wilson case trimmer to hold case square and steady to the blade. Use a caliper and set a stop so case needs little trimming after chop.
Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.
I swage .22RF hulls into bullets. I'd like to trim a small quantity of de-rimmed jackets back to make some 40gr or 45gr bullets without huge hollow points. I know about "pinch-dies" but I really would just like to make a few hundred experimental's to shoot out of my slow twist .222. I wish there was a way to trim them to length with a case trimmer. Would the HF chop saw work on such small thin tubes?
(BTW: .22short hulls are about as rare as hen's teeth at my range.)
Last edited by pertnear; 10-05-2023 at 02:09 PM.
"I haven't shot a 1,000 deer, but I've sat around a 1,000 Texas camp fires. I'm a happy man." - pertnear
The mini chop saw is the way to go if you have a lot of cases to make. There’s ~900 .223 necks in that box.
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#2 blade jewelers saw.
Hack saw works too.
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I bought one of these $17 jigs to cut 300 AAC Blackout cases from 5.56 cases using the Harbor Freight chop saw.
ZOEKIM 300 Blackout Case Cut off Trimming Jig Fixture Forming Trimmer Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086SCB6YC...language=en-US
Very easy to set up and use so long as you remember to push the safety button to release the saw.
It took a couple of cases to perfect the length because the case length changes when you form the neck and shoulder and trim the case. Once you perfect the case length you don’t need to trim the brass any further, just form the case, debur and chamfer the mouth and you’re done unless you want to anneal also.
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BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |