If you could have only
One alloy for rifle what
Would you choose, rifle only..
If you could have only
One alloy for rifle what
Would you choose, rifle only..
keep on rolling along.no matter what happens just keep rolling
That depends...on the function intended for the rifle.
Competition?
Distance?
Hunting?
Plinking?
I kill game out to 125-yards in calibers of 223 and 30-30, and plink a 45 Colt (Handi-rifle), with an alloy of 49-49-2 percent Pb-WW-Sn and BHN ~12.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Something close to #2 has always worked for me.
NRA Benefactor Member NRA Golden Eagle
16:1 does everything I need for now and forever.
Linotype .
5lb ww to 1 lb linotype.
Has worked for 40+ years in all uses.
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
Really depends on intended use? I hunt with a much softer alloy than I punch paper at a 100 yards with. My .45-70 alloy is close to pure, my 7mm pointed bullet gets 15+ bhn hardness.
hc18flyer
all my pistol do no rifle are about 1-2 tin 1-2 antimony pour hot and great fill out
94-3-3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
Same here, 94-3-3.
"We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"
unknown
Lyman #2 [95-5-5]
Larry Gibson
“Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
― Nikola Tesla
My standard alloy is 93% lead, 4.5% antimony, 2.5% tin, .02% copper, .02% arsenic. I use this either air cooled or water quenched for rifle bullets. For pistol bullets I cut the alloy 50/50 with pure lead. For cast loads in the 45-70 I use 20-1 lead/tin.
For a while I played with alloys.
Then came ASBB HF red PC and my focus changed.
Eventually I went "the other way" and tried to see what kind of results I could get with PC on top of 10-12 BHN range scrap.
I have been getting good results with a lot of loads that would have been considered "too hot" for cast by most folks prior to PC. And this is with my "zero out of pocket" cost lead.
I use this for everything. Including full power loads for normal handguns, rifles and in my IHMSA stuff (including 357 Max and 7 TCU). And since this method has given me as good as 2000 fps and 2 MOA at 200 yards with ~50,000 psi for ammo that is loaded in bulk, I have confidence that it can do the job if everything else is up to snuff.
I do tend to cast up "big batches" of a given bullet that are pretty much consistent in alloy.
The popular hunting mix of 50/50 clip on WW/pure lead plus 2% tin would work for me in everything that I do.
Back in my Schuetzen days my research led me to use 25-1 pure lead to pure tin. This always worked great for those rifle loads pushed along to just below speed of sound velocities... yielding superb accuracy out to 200 yds or so. This has been my general purpose alloy for most other rifle rounds. This mixture has become more expensive over the years but works so well, I've never seen reason to change it for serious shooting.
I know the OP asked for one alloy for all purposes, but I figure with most of my pistol shooting I can be much less discriminating. I once saw the description of using "anything vaguely plumbous", a phrase I took to heart. If my witch's brew needs to be softer, I throw more pure lead in the pot. Harder, it gets some linotype or monotype. If it's not throwing well formed bullets, I just add a little tin. Of course if vampires are involved, some silver is added!
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
50/50 pure lead/ wheel weights with 2% tin. Works awesome for just about everything.
Now, that being said,I’m going to start on some Lee 312-155 2r produced using “ hardball” or 92-6-2. All rifle boolits are heat treated , while baking the powder coat, for one hour at425*f then quenched in ice water.
I firmly believe that you should only get treated by how you act, not by who or what you are!!
Ruffly half clip on wheel weights, half range scrap or soft lead with 1% pewter/tin added mostly for mold fillout.
With a good lube like BLL or 45/45/10 kept below 2000 fps it will work for most things including pistol.
If I was going to try to push it faster there would be Lino/Mono added to stiffen it up, perhaps some copper.
Over 1400 fps use a gas check. Just makes life simpler.
I truly believe we need to get back to basics.
Get right with the Lord.
Get back to the land.
Get back to thinking like our forefathers thought.
May the Lord bless you and keep you. May the Lord make His face to shine upon you and be gracious unto you
and give you His peace. Let all of the earth – all of His creation – worship and praise His name! Make His
praise glorious!
Whatever my range scrap ingots turns out to be when I put them in the casting pot.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |