please, Murf205,
let me know if you're talkin'about the same scope posted above by rkrcpa on a SA or this in my att.ment. below or what_
thank you
Attachment 315421
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please, Murf205,
let me know if you're talkin'about the same scope posted above by rkrcpa on a SA or this in my att.ment. below or what_
thank you
Attachment 315421
Last edited by wilecoyote; 06-26-2023 at 08:02 PM.
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
Can any of you tell me what height rings would be needed for that Burris 2x20mm scope and Weigand mount on a Ruger Blackhawk? I've bad astigmatism and really can't use the red dots with any certainty. Thanks, GF
There’s no “cheek weld” when shooting a revolver so it really doesn’t make any difference. The actual difference in height between low, medium, and high is insignificant shooting a handgun.Originally Posted by Gray Fox
The difference is the amount of deflection that happens with operator error, namely canting the firearm. The higher the scope (further from the bore) the bigger the deflection from canting.
Which is minimal on a handgun. That 1/8” difference in height is negligible. After 40+ years of using a lot of different red dots on a lot of different handguns I’ve found it to be meaningless. I have literally shot over 200K of centerfire rounds out of handguns in both hunting and competition shooting. No one’s going to know the difference in ring height.
The Burris is the one I was endorsing. Those held zero better than any scope I had on that pistol and a friend has one on a T/C Encore pisto in 460 S&W. We zeroed that scope 1 time and since then he and I have put over 200 rounds of HEAVY loads through it, most of which have been with 290 gr NOE cast boolits at 2200+ fps! It has held zero with a death grip and that gun kicks hard enough to drain your sinuses! I have a 2x Leupold on my 9" SRH that has served just as well but I've had more experience with the Burris scopes. Their rifle scopes have been just as durable for me as well.
hylander, apologies for the hijack, but I have quite a few friends who, like me, need some optic help with aging eyesight and the Ultra Dot is the hands down favorite but is is a bit more like looking through a scope tube, which is more familiar to them and me.
Last edited by murf205; 06-27-2023 at 09:32 AM.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
I used medium rings (dual dovetail) on my SBH because (1) that's what I had and (2) it gave me a bit more room to thumb the hammer. Sometimes, in a hunting situation, I liked the extra room to let the hammer down if I didn't take a shot.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Murf205,in the event, it is I who must first apologize to hylander for having here solicited and obtained the needed perfect answer. here we talk about 500 euro, new, Leu.or Burris, on special order basis only. At least, I hope my intrusiveness it will be of use to others too, before each purchase, other than as bad behavioral example to avoid_ thank you both for your availability and patience !
Last edited by wilecoyote; 06-27-2023 at 10:12 AM. Reason: perfect answer
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
For you guys running the FF type Red Dots. I'm wanting to put one on a FIXED sighted Dan Wesson. I'm guessing that I will have to have my topstrap machined to fit a base??
Thanks for all the input.
Thanks for the scope as well as red dot suggestions.
Will be trying a red dot first and then maybe a scope.
Failure is not an Option
wolfy, those fixed sight Dan Wessons are a bit rare but it is yours after all.
IT AINT what ya shoot--its how ya shoot it. NONE of us are as smart as ALL of us!
Yes they are.
I'm looking for a sight mount for a 586 no dash so it's not drilled and tapped for a scope mount.
https://allchingunparts.com/products...holosun-c.html
Those of you that have them could you share how they attach to the frame of a L frame Smith
Last edited by Daver7; 06-28-2023 at 09:37 PM.
The nickel is peeling, so I figured WTH
...reading the link, I assume that in your case you should drill & tap your upper strap...
Food is overrated. A nice rifle is way more important.
Rob
WOW!!!!
Thank you for correcting me.
I had no idea the difference in height between low and ultra-high rings was only 1/8".
Sometimes things are hard to understand or grasp. SEE:
It's not so much the difference in ring height. It has more to do with the center of the scope's height above the center of the bore. Shooting 2000k+ rounds with the center of the scope +/- 1" above the center of the bore you would of thought you would of picked up on this at the +/- 100k mark.
Anyway when you aim small/at small things, everything makes a huge difference.
https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=e3b6d...MjI2NDcv&ntb=1
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/...-be-addressed/
I could put hundreds of links on canting and the affects of canting but they are easy enough to find. Anyone can look them up with a simple google search.
Using setups like this really magnifies the affects of canting. A 10" bbl'd contender (22lr) setup for smallbore silhouettes (the ram is the 100yd target). The raised scope mount (5") is designed for taco holds. I use this setup to compete against the people using rifles, standing/offhand small bore silhouettes.
[IMG][/IMG]
At the end of the day some people cant grasp canting
I seriously doubt this is what the OP had in mind when he asked his question. Your exaggerated rig may introduce some degree of canting if the OP chose to get something like what you’re showing. I’d bet 99.99% of all handgun shooters would never chose something like this other than for some very specialized shooting challenge. I’ve been shooting competition for forty+ years (I was INTERNATIONAL Class standing, Production Class, and Unlimited Class when I competed). Other than your pictured rig, I’ve never seen a set of mounts like yours on anyone’s handgun. I’m sure at your meets you may see them, but again, 99.999% of all handgun shooters won’t have a problem due to ring height. Sorry if you’re offended by my comments and experience.
The way I understood this elevator mount that forrest r shows is that it was an effort to move sight line intersections with bullet path to points that easily coincided w/ fixed range targets.
I used to see pictures in silhouette articles like this all the time, but I never shot those games just read some articles.
The 22 LR mentioned has a fairly rainbow trajectory, and if a person were shooting fixed distances where one was short & one longer range, you can play w/ the optics sightline to bore offset to pretty much make your two intersections of sightline and bullet path match two of your fixed target ranges.
This is very much like the practice I was told where people around here used to sight in their 30-30s at 25 yds, and assume a 100 yd zero as well for deer hunting. (Since I never did that, I can't vouch for it working well, or if it is intended for open sights or scopes.)
The elevator mount probably would work very well on a scoped hunting revolver to extend useful range of precise shot placement, but I never see people do it. It does create some other compromises.
Probably something most people don't think about often is minimizing the difference between optics sightline and bullet path with their chosen load & gun.
Most people probably just pick a mount they have confidence in and a ring height that makes everything package (objective bell to barrel, access to hammer spur, etc.), but doesn't mean there isn't advantage to doing otherwise.
When I say "most people" I am not implying people here -- just the general shooting public.
Every time someone I am around goes to shoot at something 3-5 feet away (like a scoped 22 exterminating a pest) and I remind them that the bullet will strike very low -- almost exactly the amount between scope C-L and bore C-L -- they look at me weird. Same phenomena: sight line vs. bullet path. Also, most people probably don't think about the sighting being the effect of a tangent of sightline to path, or intersections. Very few people I ever brought this up to didn't give me an odd look.
If a person doesn't know the differences in bullet path to sightline, you'll never really know where the shot will land at unknown distances, and never truly understand the trajectory tables some manuals give where they assume a (rather common) 1.5" offset between rifle bore and scope centerline at receiver.
Back when I was shooting three gun matches, some of the top shooters in the US were shooting some very odd rifles called “chin guns”. They had scopes that were very, very highly mounted and the guns were held quite low. These guys could shoot them very well at small steel targets at very long range (for a rimfire). As effective as they were, no one would ever suggest someone take them squirrel hunting or mount a scope on their favorite rimfire rifle that high over the bore. Holding a handgun with a scope or red dot on it, there is no noticeable effect between any ring height chosen. There’s a world of difference between theoretical and practical. Just saying.
That's just another example of a scoped/optics for firearms.
I used tasco pro point redots on a s&w 617 and still use 1 to this day on a s&w 629. They are on the large side along with the mount that is need to install them. That puts the dot +/- 1 1/2" above the bore.
[IMG][/IMG]
When shooting dirt colds @ 10 paces or 6" plates @ 50ft canting doesn't matter. Heck you can hold the revolver sideways "gansta" style. Try canting the revolver with this setup on the 50yd line and see what happens.
Same with this pair of 1911's, at close range it canting has little affect on accuracy.
[IMG][/IMG]
Stretch out a little bit and everything comes into play including canting.
[IMG][/IMG]
At the end of the day canting only comes into play if you're trying to hit small targets or keeping score.
Simply putting out there that when using optics other things can come into play that will affect accuracy.
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