Yes.
No.
Sometimes...please specify.
Yeah I learned a new way to try lubing cases as well….
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i`m a sometimer...just when sizing large dia. brass ( .45, 44mag) makes the process smoother/easier.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
I had a can of bag balm already and have used it on a RCBS lube pad. It worked well on the few 308 casings I threw in the container. I did squeeze out some excess lube with a paper towel as you recomended. I did have a bit to much on the rags.
Thanks again for the tip.
"Hollow Points"-"From Those Who Care Enough To Send The Very Best"
Never lube pistol brass or 350 legend brass. All other rifle casings I lube
I do not lube brass, i do clean dies when new and when they get dirty. after cleaning i do spray then lightly wipe silicone spray, which is a lube.
Kalifornia passes "feel good" legislation hand over fist, legislation that is looking for a problem to solve and affecting only law abiding persons.
So, after 40 years of that nonsense, that's why I now live in Arizona.
I just find there's a bit of extra work to size 9mm due to the taper. And possibly due to the generous size of my 9mm chambers. I can size them without lube. And if I couldn't adjust the length of the lever on my press, I probably wouldn't bother with lube. But since I can with lube, I do. And then I can set the lever as short as with all my other pistol sizing to get a shorter quicker throw.
It is very true that carbine dies require no lube for what we commonly call straight wall cases. I'm in total agreement. The thought of lubing such cases for such dies never occurred to me until the conversation I had with a commercial loader. At that time he set a 5 gallon bucket of freshly tumbled brass on the floor. [His tumbler was some 6 foot high if memory serves]. He used a coffee can to pour that brass into another 5 gallon bucket. As he poured each can of brass he would spay it with Hornady One Shot. Once the brass was transferred from one bucket to the other he would then pour the lubed brass back & forth between the 2 buckets several times. After this the brass was left until time to load it. He used a 1050 Dillon for loading purposes & told me on a run of a bucket or 2 there was a very noticeable difference in the fatigue he experienced. I tried this & found his words to be true. For the hobby loader it is probably over kill but I do this for my 1050 & 550. I can sure tell a difference in the effort it takes. YMMV.
As a rule I do not however I ran into a problem loading the 10mm with Dillon dies. Called them and lube was always recommended by them no matter what.
Maybe after 135 posts, one may have noticed a consensus, but I didn't read all posts. On occasion I lightly lube some handgun cases, but nothing like bottle necked brass. Especially my 44 Magnum brass which is a bit harder to size than some of my other cases. After 100 or so 9mm cases, a bit of lube on one out of four or five makes it a bit easier on my arm...
My Anchor is holding fast!
A waste of time to me.
Why even buy the carbide dies of your going to lube the cases any way?
RP
Monte Walsh "You have No idea how little I care".
Kenstone, Thanks for the tip. I deprime and then clean my .45 ACP cases with the wet stainless steel pin method. I lubed some old T shirt pieces with Bag Balm as you suggested. Put them in a mayonnaise jar with some clean cases and gave them a swirl. Could barely tell there was any lube on them but made a noticeable improvement with my CH Mark IV inline press. Worth the little extra effort to me.
AKA "Old Vic"
"I am a great believer in powder-burning".
--Theodore Roosevelt, Hunting Trips of a Ranchman
Thanks for the acknowledgement.
Your results are exactly what they should be, barely noticeable amount of lube that I don't bother to remove as it aids in gun function.
I dropped some loaded rounds lubed that way at the range this week.
The dirt here is like talcum powder and those dropped rounds had a thin/even coating of dust stuck to the lube.
That dust confirmed the presence of lube, I set them aside and shot something else and cleaned that dust off when I got back home.
It's surprising how that minute amount of lube aids the loading and shooting process.
Post back after you have shot them as I'm interested in knowing if anything changes relative to tumbling/removing the Bag Balm.
Ken
Last edited by Kenstone; 02-25-2023 at 08:43 PM.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Read the post directly above yours. Just one reason I , and many others, occasionally use lube on carbide dies (can one even find plain old steel sizing dies for handgun calibers today?). Not entirely necessary, but makes resizing some calibers much easier. Lubing handgun brass is different than bottle necked cases, which with steel sizing dies is absolutely necessary and needs to cover more of the case...
My Anchor is holding fast!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |