Melting point of coconut oil is 78 degrees. Winger Ed, am I to understand you use Lyman Orange Magic with black powder?
Coconut oil and some amount of wax should work, but will cost more than other alternatives. I wonder what the smoke would smell like.
For range days I use Moose milk but for hunting where the rifle may not be fired for a long period use the pre-lubed patches from TC or CVA. Have a coffee can of bear oil that I have never tried, probably 10-12 years old and when I checked it this spring was still soft and had not gone rancid. have to drag it out and give it a try one of these years.
My twist - also posted in the Simple Lube sticky:
4 oz beeswax
3 oz white petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
2 tsp two stroke oil
2 tsp universal tractor fluid (for hydrostatic transmissions)
1/2 tsp castor oil
1 tsp Johnson Paste Wax
1/2 tsp Ballistol
Melt beeswax and vaseline using a double boiler then add the rest and stir, allow to harden at room temp. I live in South Texas and wanted more beeswax for hardness - this doesn’t seem to “weep” when it’s hot weather.
Works great with smokeless or BP cartridge - I have never used it on muzzleloaders but expect it would serve the purpose, although it is somewhat firm. It comes out a light blue because of the two stroke oil I use.
Recently I've been playing with a mix of equal parts by weight beeswax and soy wax plus 20% of that total of ester based 2 stroke oil. It's very similar in feel to gatofeo #1 and has been working great in cartridge rifles and as a lube for shotgun cushion wads and revolver wads. If it's too stiff a bit of Crisco would probably soften it a bit but I haven't tried that yet.
Muzzle loading lube
1 part beef dripping (rendered beef fat).
1 part boiled castor oil (as used in Felix lube)
Small amount of calcium soap
Carnuba wax to reach required hardness.
Works nicely with pyrodex but in my ML revolver.
I recently bought some PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil which could be interesting. It has long chain castor oil molecules and it acts as an emulsifier so it might lubricate and help with cleaning with black powder loads. Or maybe it will turn to a nasty mess.
I like my modified Emmert’s for most BP apps… pan lubed as per instructions from Dale53. My mod is to eliminate the Canola Oil and make up the difference with Anhydrous Lanolin plus a touch of Carnauba Wax for hardness and the polishing effect. For Summer matches I’ve been thinking of adding a bit more Beeswax for hardness and less melt off. I’m also thinking of filling one of my old Ideal #1 Lubricator/Sizers with it to process my 50 Maynard bullets.
Froggie
"It aint easy being green!"
I like the nra or spg clone. Beeswax- 1. Paraffin-2. Olive oil-2 parts in stead of mutton tallow. I like for bp and can’t wait to try it on 30-30. hmf. Slick, adheres well, plenty of lubrication. Low melting temp. but can be pushed out in an ooze in my barrel,
Feels light and right.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |