I bought a Mi-Hec .512 2 cavity that can make HP bullets. It has about twenty little pins and screws and two Hexhead tools.
No instructions included in the shipping box. Can someone post them for me?
thanks in advance,
Rich
I bought a Mi-Hec .512 2 cavity that can make HP bullets. It has about twenty little pins and screws and two Hexhead tools.
No instructions included in the shipping box. Can someone post them for me?
thanks in advance,
Rich
Start assembling the shafts and pins that make HP or FP. Insert shafts through the holes. Assemble the mold, handles.
MP says it’s Lego for grownups so he doesn’t provide any instructions how to assemble.
But you have instructions on his web page how to use them, please read. Don’t over tight the shafts, tighten lightly, then unscrew half turn. Shafts with pins must move freely so you can close the mould halves without any problem.
Right handed, keep shafts of left side so when you flip it upside, shafts will be on your right side.
Just received my second MP brass HP mold this month, already knew how they go together, but for those who don't here are two good videos from some of my friends on MP molds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fobmb4oR_TI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRbgMaaHjas
I have several of his molds.
I found this:
Pick out the pins that you are going to use. Assemble them, with the 4 rods each. Insert them into one mold half, and apply circlips on that half. Hold mold half, inverted horizontally, so gravity holds the pins down, hanging from circlips. Raise 2nd mold half up to 1st, getting one set of rods started, then the next, and so. Don’t bring halves together until all rods have started into holes.
Then install the remaining circlips.
Then install the handles.
Just because it’s a bad idea…
…. Doesn’t mean it won’t be a good time !
IDAHO SS good instructions there. If your .512 cast like mine 512 then you will be a happy man. It does require a few heat cycles in the beginning to get seasoned but mine makes NICE boolits. I use it for a 50-110 1886. If I can help in any way PM me.
I am sooooooooo close to success! I have all the pins and clippies set. I just cannot get the mold halves to separate once I closed the mold.
Any luck? Some rods must be binding. I would almost suggest a shot of penetrating oil, just to get separated without damage. Of course you’d have to re clean, all over again.
While it’s closed and stuck…. See which rods you can tighten and loosen , and which ones you cannot. Might help identify which rods might be binding.
Just because it’s a bad idea…
…. Doesn’t mean it won’t be a good time !
I found a very small burr on one rod that caused it to stick.
Little bit late to this party. If binding remains an issue, see this post for a potential solution...
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...revec-MP-Molds
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
https://youtu.be/dRbgMaaHjas
Hope this helps
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |