Yeap, build a PID
Yeap, build a PID
I just borrowed the wife's dial-type oven thermometer, put it in the oven, found where the dial needed to be to regulate to 400 deg, and marked it with a Sharpie. I checked it 3-4 years later just to make sure and the setting hadn't changed. Never found a need to get more involved.
I don’t have a thermometer. Max setting on my oven is 200*C or 400*F. I put my boolits in a cold oven and turn it up to max. Thirty to forty minutes later, I call them done. I let them cool down before I remove them. It’s always worked for me.
When I tried PC/Hi-Tek for the first time, I had so-so adhesion of the coating. After going through the checklist of incomplete bonding, I checked the oven temp. Even maxed out the temp peaked at 375°F and cycled back on at 340°F. PID and some rewiring of the oven got the coating to bonding right.
For me, with my limited experience, I found my cheap oven temp control sucked. After that I bought a clip in thermometer and gauged the temp on the readings but it seemed to be very inconsistent. For my Lee pot I always a ran a PIC to nail down my best temp so I bought another thermo sender and installed it in the oven. Now, perfection every time, don't have to watch or worry. Just set it and get the next batch ready. My PID and relay came from good old Ebay, many different names, many different prices but all with the same specs I was looking for. Money extremely well spent, I have never looked back. Imho
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |