2 stroke engine issue

[elmacgyver0]

+1 on the moto mix . I'll run 93 pump gas with Stihl syn oil , drain out tank when season is over and fill with motomix run and put up . My Stihl guy says the Motomix has additives that keep fuel line and primer bulbs conditioned .

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That would definitely give you the best of both worlds.

[Ithaca Gunner]

What ever you decide, buy OEM parts or carb. Not the cheap chinese knock-offs they sell on flea bay.

[jsizemore]

If compression isn't high enough a new carb ain't gonna do anything. Check manufacturer's specs.

[bosterr]

Last week I tried to start my like new, 5 years old Husky leaf blower and it wouldn't start or even chug. I add fuel stabilizer when I was done with it last year, like every other year, then run it dry. It was making lots of spark but starting fluid wouldn't work either. Left it at Rural King for 3 days. The mechanic said he cleaned the carb. I don't see how dirt can get past the filter in the tank. One hour of labor later ($75.) it starts and runs like it always did. It's amazing to me they can ethanol proof cars, when are the outdoor equipment operators can't do the same.

[megasupermagnum]

@Ithaca Gunner, there is no such thing as an OEM carburetor, at least nothing made specifically for that engine. Almost all homeowner stuff today use generic Chinese carbs, usually Zama. They are poor quality. Buying Zama carbs from a dealer is not the best move. Buy them online, they are usually $10-25. They do work, but when they have issues, just buy a new one. The only decent carburetor anymore is Walbro, and I'm not even sure they make them in the USA. They probably do. I would rather put a Walbro on than an "OEM" Zama. Tillotson was a decent brand, but they are almost unheard of today. They may or may not be out of business.

@jsizemore, while correct, I'm quite sure he is not having compression problems. It's a homeowner leafblower. They almost never get used to the point of wearing out. While he could have issues such as crank seals, I think it far more likely he does not. Problems such as this on leaf blowers or anything else that gets stored and used little is 99% of the time carburetor or fuel lines.

@bosterr, there is more than one way dirt can get inside. Besides the fuel line, it can also come in around the air filter. If that carb has a breather, dirt can be introduced that way. The way cars get away with ethanol is with hard lines. There is a short flexible line off your gas tank, which goes to a solid steel fuel line. It runs near the engine, and it then goes to another flexible line. On port injection that goes directly to a fuel rail. On direct injection it goes through a high pressure pump, then a solid steel line to the fuel rail. If cars needed to run rubber hose, they too would have issues. I agree it sucks that nobody seems to have a great solution for rubber hose for small engines, but it isn't that bad. They usually last 5-10 years as it is. Or just run non-oxygenated gas if you can get it.

[georgerkahn]

Last week I tried to start my like new, 5 years old Husky leaf blower and it wouldn't start or even chug. I add fuel stabilizer when I was done with it last year, like every other year, then run it dry. It was making lots of spark but starting fluid wouldn't work either. Left it at Rural King for 3 days. The mechanic said he cleaned the carb. I don't see how dirt can get past the filter in the tank. One hour of labor later ($75.) it starts and runs like it always did. It's amazing to me they can ethanol proof cars, when are the outdoor equipment operators can't do the same.

Short (abbreviated?) answer to hopefully provide an answer or two . First, re "cars", autos have a CLOSED fuel system with no hopeful interaction with out of fuel system air. Hey -- even if you just forget to put your filler cap on it may cause a Check Engine light to come/stay on! On the other pretty much ALL 2-cycle and 4-cycle stuff: chainsaws, weed-eaters, blowers, lawn mowers, generators, etc., etc., etc. have an OPEN fuel system. One of (many) bad things re the Ethanol is it sucks moisture from air, and then -- being heavier than petrol -- the resulting gook (technical term) settles to the bottom -- often a milkish thick yuck -- which clogs fuel flow. In 2-cycle engines the teeny fuel passages in carbs get readily plugged. Saddest part, in a good many cases the only cure is a carb replacement or -- if you are lucky -- a rebuild it for it.
A second note is re ANY "starting fluid" or ether: I have heard and strongly believe this is a SUPER NO-NO!!!!! Even the several seconds you may get your engine to tun after spraying the stuff is enough to do terminal scoring to cylinder as well as other bad damage. I repeat the very simple rule: NEVER USE IT IN A 2-CYCLE ENGINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Instead? There is a solution I (who have 14 chain saws) swear by: Get a small oil-squirt can and put some FRESH 50:1 mix in it. Remove the spark plug from the motor, and simply squirt in one to two squirts. Reinsert the plug and pull the start rope. Assuming you have spark and compression -- by gum and golly, it WILL start and either run for a few seconds and die -- indicating the clogged carb. OR, it will suck the fuel thru and -- success! -- the engine will keep running.
Re fuel, I have long been a proponent and buyer of the store-bought pre-mix sold in quart cans in big box stores. Six to eight U S dollars per quart, it ain't at all cheap. BUT -- it is Ethanol-free, hi-octane, and has stabilizer in it. The stuff "sounds" expensive, but I ask if a quart of the stuff or a repair/replacement is a better value? (I use nothing but Stihl Moto-mix in my chain saws and Lewis winch!)
An added "trick" many folks I know do is, after season ends, run the 2-cycle unit out of fuel, but then pour a bit of pure 2-cycle oil (not mixed with Essence) into the fuel tank; put on choke; and pull rope 4 to six times -- enough to get pure 2-cycle oil thru the carb; then drain out any all from fuel tank.. Come the next time you wish to use it, just put pre-mix in tank and... it will smoke a bit for the first two or three minutes -- but it WILL run.
geo

[megasupermagnum]

While the fuel system on a car is more sealed than a typical small engine, they are not a true closed system. They still get air in the tank, either through the fill hole, or the breather. The filler cap is just as sealed as your leafblower cap. If you have a car with a "capless" sealed cover, they might even leak more than a normal leafblower. The breather does go through a charcoal filter, so techically very little moisture should be introduced that way. Either way, that isn't the issue. Ethanol fuel can become corrosive, but the much bigger issue is that it will harden, and eventually crack anything pliable including gaskets, pumps, and fuel hose.

Starting fluid is perfectly safe in a 2 stroke. There is oil in your crank case when it sits. This is plenty of lubrication for some time. Studies have show it takes 20-30 minutes for oil to fully recycle through the entire engine. You certainly would not want to run on straight gas that long, but you will be fine for a few seconds on starting fluid.

I've heard enough bad reports with things like TruFuel to say it isn't worth messing with. Sometimes an engine runs just fine on it. Sometimes they never run good on it. Every gasoline engine will run good on real gasoline that isn't too old. Trufuel is not gasoline.

I've never heard of pouring oil into your gas tank before. I'm thinking 4-6 pulls will not be enough to get it through the fuel line, that's barely enough to get gas through the line. Even if you do, I fail to see what purpose it will serve. When your engine sits, the gas evaporates. In a 2 stroke your carburetor already has oil sitting in it.

[farmbif]

I didn't read all the threads. but thought I'd chime in on the his one. I spent 4 years in marine mechanics school but have had constant problems getting little two strokes running well. those little zama and walbro carburetors with built in fuel pump and ethanol gas is the problem. I got a pretty good handle on repairing all those two stroke things, chainsaws, string trimmers, leaf blowers hedge trimmers and all the rest by watching teryl fixes all on YouTube. that guys an excellent small engine mechanic and a great teacher who makes a bunch of goofey videos. that are excellent. even though he has all the special tools he explains how to fix the stuff using just common tools that we all have.
he also did a test that lasted something like 2 years with 12 new engines that proved that all those fuel additives are nothing but snake oil. pure gas with no ethanol is the key to success.

[rockrat]

See if you can get some aviation fuel. I think it has a shelf life of two years

[megasupermagnum]

See if you can get some aviation fuel. I think it has a shelf life of two years

I'm assuming you are talking about "Avgas" which is 100 octane low-lead gasoline. It is still gasoline, and is good for about 1 year. It's a fantastic option for engines such as dirt bikes or anything else you need higher octane, as it is readily available just about anywhere (even rural), and considerably cheaper than something like VP Racing gas. A small engine such as a leafblower would run just fine on it, but you may be wasting your money. The higher octane will do nothing for you, and the shelf life is the same as any other gasoline. It may be an option if you happen to live somewhere that non-oxygenated gas is a long drive, or possibly banned in your state.

[MarkP]

If live near a small town airport buy some 100LL Aviation fuel and mix with a quality synthetic 2 cycle oil. It will save you lots of grief. It is usually about $1.50 -$2 more per gallon but we'll worth it. I use it in all my small engines 4 cycle and 2 cycle.

[jsizemore]

megasupermagnum said:

@jsizemore, while correct, I'm quite sure he is not having compression problems. It's a homeowner leafblower. They almost never get used to the point of wearing out. While he could have issues such as crank seals, I think it far more likely he does not. Problems such as this on leaf blowers or anything else that gets stored and used little is 99% of the time carburetor or fuel lines.

The OP said for years he would pump prime 3 times and it would start. After a carb repair/replace it had to be pulled several times before it would start.

I've seen homeowner stuff that looked new but had scored pistons and rings. Air cooling fins around the head plugged with debris and dirt dabber nests so there was no cooling. Chainsaws clogged with fine dust. No cooling so excess heat which causes scoring of the chrome lining in the cylinder. It can happen after 1-20 seasons.

All I can say is if you don't look. you don't KNOW!

[Big Tom]

Had a similar problem with my 8 years old snowblower - got a new carburetor via ebay for $20, invested about an hour to install it and it runs like new.

[MaryB]

I gave one just like it to a friend(I went battery due to less vibration on my bad shoulders and carpal tunnel). It decided to not run anymore. Primer bulb had a pinhole sucking air but not leaking fuel. Lose prime no run!

[Ithaca Gunner]

@Ithaca Gunner, there is no such thing as an OEM carburetor, at least nothing made specifically for that engine. Almost all homeowner stuff today use generic Chinese carbs, usually Zama. They are poor quality. Buying Zama carbs from a dealer is not the best move. Buy them online, they are usually $10-25. They do work, but when they have issues, just buy a new one. The only decent carburetor anymore is Walbro, and I'm not even sure they make them in the USA. They probably do. I would rather put a Walbro on than an "OEM" Zama. Tillotson was a decent brand, but they are almost unheard of today. They may or may not be out of business.

Two years ago I got a $12.00 chinese carb for my Stihl chainsaw, it worked great for a day or two, then back to the same old no-start. That was with a new fuel filter and lines.

[megasupermagnum]

The original carb on Stihl is now Zama, a generic Chinese brand. Yeah, you find a lot of times you have to buy two to get one good one. I always go Walbro if I can.

[deces]

I am beginning to believe ever increasing "Planned Obsolescence" at play in our small engine products. Growing up a Lawn Mower/Tiller/etc... would last 20 years or more if kept clean, stored out of weather. Maybe a little cleaning and carb cleaner every other year. No more. Matters not if it's a Gas Powered (They seem to be disappearing from market at Big Box and other stores); or electric corded products. I bought 3 brand new electric weed eaters in last 30 months. All have failed because the plastic heads holding the spools have disintegrated. The "Sears" electric string trimmer before them lasted 15 years. I am not wanting to go to a "Battery" mower/tiller/string trimmer/etc... But seems to be all that will be available in a couple of years.

Ridgid is getting into the outdoor product line very soon. They have a lifetime service agreement on almost all of their tools. First register the tool, then send another email for LSA. and if it breaks, drop it off at a home depot and it gets serviced, replaced or they cut you a check for the price you paid.

[Siskiwit]

Check the spark arrester screen on the exhaust if you have one it might be plugged. I’ve also had to wiggle a screw driver in the tiny exhaust port to nock out the carbon that caused a loss of performance. It does sound like a fuel problem though. The primer bulb with a leak will cause a lot of issues you are having too. Non ethanol fuel is a must. I usually just add a smidge of sea foam to the gallon of mix gas when refilling the can. When it comes time to put up for winter storage I just fill the tank and put it on the rack. Next year I dump out the old gas and add fresh. Other than having a plugged carb once I’ve never had a problem in years.

[porthos]

was able to get it started today with 4 primes and about 6 pulls on the cord. hope this keeps up. if i were to guess what helped, i would say the mechanic in a bottle and "store bought" 50/50 fuel

[GhostHawk]

Seafoam for all small engines. Gasoline is not what it used to be. It breaks down, shellac's small parts. Gasoline stabilizer and Seafoam will keep them running.
Probably have a fuel jet half clogged.

Also for gas for small engines I only buy premium. No ethanol in that. Gotten to where I mostly put premium in the cars too, they seem to like it better.

But Seafoam can be a life saver.