Thank you GWS. I remember seeing that video and looked for it, but didn't find it. So much to look through. Do you remember the thickness of that plate? I don't mind printing a new plate if I think I need to. I've already printed 2 plates for hornet brass and will probably print 1 more final variation. A mongo may not be the best platform for plate development.
No.....300 on the left alright, but Tyler's 'standard' sized one on the right....considerably larger than the AM version.
These are all TylerR plates...big is the 300....two small ones are his first size he calls "standard".
Of Tyler's originals the red is .223 and the green is .308. You can see why I reprinted them the bigger size.
I think TylerR has a picture of AM's compared to his, but I don't.
Okay, I just took another picture:
300 is at far left....TylerR's standard in the middle...and AmmoMike's model on the right.
M500: thickness of the plate is 8mm. But it's not a special plate on Tyler's original "Standard" size....it is his "Large Pistol Brass" plate...period. Slider in front is wide open. That pictured A.M. plate is a special plate on A.M.'s base. I don't think he made one like Tyler's that I know about....his was just bullet plates, I think?
I never saw a need for two proximity switches, so not me.....you may be the first, unless TylerR has played with it.
BTW, the green "standard diameter" rifle bullet plate above has a lot of risers....twice the need....but that was my first one. Live and learn. It works fine but it prints way longer than I would prefer. That's an example of a custom one though, and an example of over doing it. TylerR's "small rifle bullet plate" is what I would print now.
The front slider and funnel under the AM plate (red), is what I created to drop all pistol cases, similar hole to a wide open TylerR pistol case slider.
Last edited by GWS; 09-02-2022 at 12:13 PM.
If you do buy an Ender 5+ (Tyler's latest one too) get him to give you pointers on set up and bed leveling. Especially get the polypropylene bed he has and recommends, and escape all the hassle of prints lifting. All my bed problems disappeared when I got one. It's got to be the worlds best material for 3D printer beds.....sooooo easy to use and trouble-free. I use TH3D's automatic bed leveling system.....don't know what he uses.....maybe that model comes with one already. Probably does. Pretty sure Prusa's expensive one does.
Thanks guys. Couple of thank you pictures.
Attachment 303577
Attachment 303578
Don't remember where I found it, but when I was looking for motors I found a cross reference to these numbers. Bought them of ebay for around $50 each or thereabouts. Printer is Tronxy X5SA-400. I reflashed it to Marlin for the additional thermal protection. Got a polypropylene bed which required an upgrade from the blue sensor to the black sensor.
Well I just now found a more reasonable source for your Molon brand motor, than the typical $70. And they do seem to have the same mounts at the Daytons.
At Zoro:
https://www.zoro.com/molon-dc-gearmo.../i/G100461364/
Maybe that's where you found them.
Then I went to Ebay and found one for $35.00! https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...2-1M&_osacat=0
Somebody ought to jump on that one.
Shows what kind of markup Dayton has on their products. Probably all made in the same Chinese facility anyway.
I question whether the best buy in motors may be the 60ga775 like 45acp is running.
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...=1#post5379929
$35 on the Aliexpess slow boat or $45 from ebay with speedpak. If I print a 300mm I would probably try that one.
Why not this one, which is supported?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So is there something wrong with worm gears? Not something I know anything about.....please enlighten us....
Worm gears have more friction and galling than a regular gear on gear configuration. Shorter service life. Tendency to fling the grease away from the companion gear rather than on it. As it pertains to a case collator, it probably won't matter. I just try to avoid them when I can.
Attachment 303686
Interesting. I will say this on the matter: Compared to commercial bullet and case feeders.....these printed ones are so cheap to make, cheaper still to add calibers to, that paying $70 for a good motor is well.....miniscule......and the quality of the finished product just as good or better, especially clutched ones.
I have four feeders, many caliber changes, a 3D printer, to make more, all for the price of one commercial feeder, with 2 caliber kits. No need to quibble over $30. And yet, I would doubt the light use of these motors would see worm drive ones fail very often if ever......cheap speed controls....yes. So don't cheap out on those. (done that)
I definitely agree. My interest in the 775 motor is more of an itch to try one more so than anything. I don't have a need for another collator at the moment, but if I get a summit press, that would change.
I'm a little surprised TylerR didn't include both 634 and dayton mounting holes on the same body. Looks like it would fit fine.
Summit press? If you do that you may want this zip file.....
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...#post-12380782
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |