A gift from a friend, it really improves the annealing a lot, they all look the same
https://youtube.com/shorts/Wxv4ko-pPTc
A gift from a friend, it really improves the annealing a lot, they all look the same
https://youtube.com/shorts/Wxv4ko-pPTc
Looks very similar to the one I made a while back. Hope the link works, it's my first video link attempt. If not, no biggie.
https://imgur.com/a/3pwzDfj
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
Very Cool! I will have to build one. What's under the hood?
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
DIYCASEANNEALER.pdf
Hope this helps, I had issues downloading it so the attachment may not work.
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
Got it! Thank You!
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
You're welcome, mine is no work of art but it does work.
Keep in mind prices may have gone up since I built mine. For the main drum, I just cut down a gallon paint bucket. For different calibers, the drum width may have to vary. I cut mine for use with .308's, Some 30-06's tended to fall out upon loading. I'm thinking I can just make a wider insert to the drum but have not done so as of yet.
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
When I get caught up on my other projects. I am going to build one of these. Thanks for the info
Nice. I really like that setup. I see so many annealers posted that are so over complicated I loose interest immediately. Some look really slick to use, but require special things to build. In this instance I see a perfect solution for the average person. Most of that stuff the average guy already has or can be got at a hardware store cheap. The only thing to buy is the motor with gearbox. I think you could do it even simpler than you did. All you need is a potentiometer to control the speed of a DC motor, but if you wanted the display that's not very expensive. I'd just run mine off a deep cycle battery rather than get a power supply. Is there any reason you chose to go with aluminum for the feed ramp?
I don't know the specs of the materials, since I didn't buy them myself, but according to my friend it has a low-rev motor, a speed controller, and the small display, nothing more
when I disarm it for something, I take some photos and upload them
You can certainly get motors that will turn slow enough for this, but your basic DC motor is not likely to turn slow enough. A thought came to my mind in the past day though. There's got to be a bunch of old junk cordless drills out there that people throw away when the batteries are shot. A lot of those NICAD battery drills were meant to run around 12 volts. That would make one heck of a low speed motor and gearbox for a project like this. If it has a variable trigger, you could get away using that. Otherwise you would need to wire the motor with a potentiometer, and run off of a 12 volt battery like a deep cycle. I'd think the cheaper the drill, the better. The newer good ones can not be hot wired like this.
I've bough annealeez and couldn't be happier (also got extra wheels for short cases and fat cases).
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |