I have 2 in line on my build list.
I like the looks of them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAwj8...eature=related
http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/c...d/otca_16.html
I have 2 in line on my build list.
I like the looks of them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAwj8...eature=related
http://www.oldtowncanoe.com/canoes/c...d/otca_16.html
Last edited by Just Duke; 01-13-2013 at 03:26 PM.
I love the looks of them, and at one time planned on building one.
My canoeing is now motorized and I'm afraid the rocks I seem to find would not be nice to a cedar strip canoe though. lol
Very nice! In High School our woodworking class built a couple of strip canoes my JR/SR year. Lots of work goes in to them.
Life's hard, even harder if your stupid.
Duke,
Are you going to build a laker with a straight keel line, or a river runner with some rocke r? Any canoe that gets used will take some hard knocks, even open water lakers.
You'll have to look into building a steamer,those ribs, gunnels and stems have to be softened with steam to be bent into those shapes especially the ribs as that design Old Town has a lot of tumblehome, several jigs will be needed to repeat the shapes and a trailer load of clamps. Large diameter pvc pipe can be used to make the steamer.
That's one huge project, would like watch as it comes together.
Good luck!
"NUTS" A. Clement McAullife
Sorry for the delay all my materials arrived on the same day so I'm finally have something to work on.
Probably a couple of each when I get to where I'm going. I am unfortunately not able to fabricate them here not due to available materials but lack of humidity. The integrity of the craft is relative to the ambient humidity thus keeping the joints tight. One thing I should add the canoe has an outer veneer of fiberglass that becomes translucent post resin has been applied and compliments the integrity. Even with that said in a dry climate the cedar will shrink and de-laminate it's self from the fiberglass hence they will have to be built elsewhere.
Steaming is pretty old school for me. In Den CO I ran with a fella that had the radiator shop next to the Diving School early 80's I was attending and he was the go to guy for dog sledding in the area. He took me under his wing and schooled me in steam bending parts for dog sleds as he didn't want all he learned to pass with him. I found it unfortunate I will not able to reciprocate the the favor of knowledge to younger generations.
Yes Cedar for sure is easier to steam bend than white Ash.
I took the info and ran with it.
I do have plans on PDF the guys on the canoe building forum sent me for different canoes.
I will have to say as far as huge projects go <yawn> this is just peanuts and cracker jacks compared to those that built fleets of 17th century square riggers.
Anyway my bout with boredom has seceded as all my materials for several projects have seemed to arrive all on the same day.
Last edited by Just Duke; 01-18-2013 at 10:34 PM.
Love the looks of them, would really like to find one in need of some attention, but doubt I would have the patience to build from scratch...
If you keep them on the water where they belong , they don't have a chance to dry out !
They might be nice to look at but it's more fun to paddle them !
You going to do it the old way with planes, spokeshaves and drawknives ?
The Chesnut Prospector design is probably one of the best for all around paddling , pretty dry when the waters rough, but still has enough straight line to carry hull speed for crossing those long stretches.
Last edited by dagger dog; 01-18-2013 at 08:41 PM.
"NUTS" A. Clement McAullife
They are beauties for sure same as a birtch bark.
I built a cedar strip sea kayak. It was from plans, called the Guillemont Expedition. It took me two years of weekends to finish her. The wood work was very enjoyable, but the fiberglass was a little stressful for a first timer. You only have a limited time before the epoxy sets up. The kayak is fiberglassed inside and out, and most people can't even tell. They just think its only wood. Actually, the wood adds very little to the structural integrity, the fiberglass has all the strength. Canoes are a little harder to build because they need to have the strips beveled just right so they look good inside and out. The yak didn't matter on the inside much as no one ever will see it. Enjoy your project and keep us updated. I don't know a lot about canoe building but if you have any general questions, just ask.
I like them. They handle so well and are pure art on the water.
Bought a modified Red Bird years ago, strippers are the finest canoe in the water. Traded it off in a gun deal, poorest decision I ever made. Glass and plastic canoes are in the same class as jon boats when compared to a stripper. Just my opinion
I know a guy who builds them from 5' to 17'. His website below
http://www.littlebearcanoes.com/canoes.html
Paul G.
Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.
The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
-- R. Buckminster Fuller
Built 2.5 sea kayaks. Very Interesting designs can be made wuth different woods.
I used red cedar, white cedar, redwood, and white pine.
When laminated between fiberglass plys you can take a 2 pound mallet and TRY to break through....only to either fail miserably, or break the mallet. I know because I tried it.....the mold release failed when I laid up the front hatch cover lips. It was glued on like I meant to do it!
I beat on that hatch until my arms wore out, and finally had to very carefully saw the hatch out.
That experience resolved any doubts I had about the strength of strip built canoes and kayaks.
I have pictures somewhere and will post 'em later.
Salvaging old Marlins is not a pasttime...it's a passion
I know the thread is old but anyone that is interested in building one, here is some advise. Firstly reasearch on how to use clamps and wedges for applying pressure to the cedar strips when gluing. It's a pain but the end result is not one nail or staple hole visible in the hull. Next is time, make sure you have it. It took me 4 months straight and I worked every night on it.
The end product was awesome. I got really into it and hand wove my seats from rawhide. It's a learn as you go project so don't be intimidated by the initial scope, broken down into steps it's manageable.
The owner of the sawmill that I used to work at had one. It had little brass nails or rivets or something all over it, and I figured they weren't for decoration. It looked heavy! But it was beautiful!
Tom
μολὼν λαβέ
Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?
Had a friend that did a birch bark canoe (17 footer) and it was a thing of beauty when finished. Second time out with it his wife got in and stepped between the rails. major repair job there. The cedar strip are really something to be admired.
Well - if you live where winters freeze that is not quite the best idea. You can't keep them in a frozen lake or river. Putting them in a shop will not keep them wet for the winter. Especially if the shop is heated. Musical instruments split and crack during winter because the already dry winter air is further dried by adding a heater. Canoes will as well. Consider building the canoe when the humidity is 50% and then subjecting it to humidities of less than 10% for months.
Jim
cedar strip boats are just pure eye candy, they are absolutey amazing to paddle and use, not even close by comparison to new style plastics and aluminum. you will be very happy with your own hand built no doubt about it.
I bought a couple books on how to make cedar strip canoes. I have large stacks of Roughcut red cedar and a pretty good sized outfitted wood shop that was all here when I bought the place. but I'm not much of a wood worker. anyone interested in making one of these I have lots of red cedar. maybe one of these days ill get around to making a hard back form and trying to get motivated to give it a try to make one
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |